built-in camera metering

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The more and more outdoor shooting I do, the more and more particular I find which metering system I use, and what I meter off of. I have fonud that sometimes I get my best results when I point my camera strait up into the sky with either matrix or center weighted to set my exposure. It doesn't always work, but it seems to be a very reliable technique. My question to all of you is, what little tricks have you picked up that you use to get your best results when working with the in-camera metering system?
 
The first thing I do on my D80 (which you have) is set my exposure compensation to -0.7 EV... that helps a lot. My D40 overexposes as well by the same amount.
 
The first thing I do on my D80 (which you have) is set my exposure compensation to -0.7 EV... that helps a lot. My D40 overexposes as well by the same amount.

My D80 meters just fine for ambient lighting but I need to set my flash exposure to +0.7 EV. Just a few moments ago, I was reviewing my Easter pics and discovered to my horror that somehow the flash compensation was turned off.
 
That is why I prefer a good hand held meter. It provides me with a wider range of options that the in camera meter does not.
 
I meter all over the place. I still have no idea what I am doing with metering the light. I'm using full manual with a non-dSLR camera.

If, for example, I am outside in one particular area on a nice day, I still have no idea how to meter. I should be able to set the settings and leave it being I am in one area I would think. But I am metering more with looking at the result on the LCD then changing settings than actually metering any specific spot. Big problem with this is, the photos look completely different on the computer than they do on the screen. As well as, normally when I am outside, it is a bright sunny day and I can't usually see the LCD screen anyways.

After 3 months now, I am fine with understanding the relationship of aperture, shutter, and ISO. I have no idea anything about metering for a shot though. I don't know if I want to meter the sky, the ground, my subject.... Nor do I have a clue if I would want to use spot, matrix, average metering.

I'll get it eventually though. I figured out all the other stuff, I'll figure out this metering stuff too.
 
If I know I am going to be shooting a similar situtaion where my metering is not going to vary greatly, like around the bird feeder, I will shoot a 3 or 5 shot set in bracketing, check the RGB and histogram of those to see which exposure I like best, then adjust my EC to fit and click away.
 
The first thing I do on my D80 (which you have) is set my exposure compensation to -0.7 EV... that helps a lot. My D40 overexposes as well by the same amount.

Well that would line up with what Bryan Perterson says in Understanding Exposure. I have yet to see where I need to do so yet. I've been pretty happy with how mine meters, except in the mid-day sun.
 
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My D80 meters just fine for ambient lighting but I need to set my flash exposure to +0.7 EV. Just a few moments ago, I was reviewing my Easter pics and discovered to my horror that somehow the flash compensation was turned off.


I'm just starting to use flash, SB-600, and I'm finding out that more ofter than not I need to kick it down by -0.3 to -0.7 EV as well as bounce it off the ceiling at times to not white folks out.....and that's using TTL too.
 
If I know I am going to be shooting a similar situtaion where my metering is not going to vary greatly, like around the bird feeder, I will shoot a 3 or 5 shot set in bracketing, check the RGB and histogram of those to see which exposure I like best, then adjust my EC to fit and click away.


now ( not to start a new discussion in this topic ) the histogram is something I've yet to understand or learn about yet.
 
the histogram is something I've yet to understand or learn about yet

Well, histogram is directly related to your metering, so I wouldn't consider it a change in discussion. It's something you should try to at least grasp the basics on, which is not difficult. Once you get used to using it, all it takes is a glance.

Here are two articles which are pretty decent introductions.....

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml

http://www.photoxels.com/tutorial_histogram.html

When using my histogram, I usually like seeing the primary exposure just a little left of center.
 
I'm just starting to use flash, SB-600, and I'm finding out that more ofter than not I need to kick it down by -0.3 to -0.7 EV as well as bounce it off the ceiling at times to not white folks out.....and that's using TTL too.

I also use the 600 but this issue is in the body. Although I don't use the pop-up, I did some tests with it and, just as with the 600, I needed to boost the flash 0.7 EV. I'm concluding that manufacturing tolerances account for the difference between your experiences and my experiences.

Let's also recognize the difference in personal preferences! For the record, in my case, the shots look good on the computer screen but the boost is necessary for prints.
 
Well, histogram is directly related to your metering, so I wouldn't consider it a change in discussion. It's something you should try to at least grasp the basics on, which is not difficult. Once you get used to using it, all it takes is a glance.

Here are two articles which are pretty decent introductions.....

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml

http://www.photoxels.com/tutorial_histogram.html

When using my histogram, I usually like seeing the primary exposure just a little left of center.

That was helpful, thanks......now I've got to see if I can put that new knowledge to use.....
 
I also use the 600 but this issue is in the body. Although I don't use the pop-up, I did some tests with it and, just as with the 600, I needed to boost the flash 0.7 EV. I'm concluding that manufacturing tolerances account for the difference between your experiences and my experiences.

Let's also recognize the difference in personal preferences! For the record, in my case, the shots look good on the computer screen but the boost is necessary for prints.


I have yet to use my flash in Manual mode. I tend right now to use it in A priority mode only. If I do use it in M mode, I usually underexpose by about 2/3 to 1 1/2 stops depending on the distance between me and my subjects. I still tend to drop the EV to -0.3. I do remember this weekend shooting a few shots outside under a covered pavillion with the flash kicked up +0.7 to combat some contrast created by the mid-day sunlight of a cloudless sky.
 
Partial metering using the 20Ds viewfinder with a marked partial metering "zone" to meter off of what I want exposed properly in the shot the most. If I had spot, I'd only use that.

I also have my "*" button as a dedicated focus button, so I can meter, recompose, focus using the center cross type AF point, then re-recompose again, and shoot. All in all, an action shot takes about a 3 second process to get going (shoot automotive sports), and fully thought about artistic shots when I can take my time with a parked car, take about 15 to 20 seconds to set up each shot (not including moving around, but once I hit one knee to start shooting.
 

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