Buying studio lights dilemma.

No. You are confusing power packs with batteries.

Pack & head style lights, use a 'power pack'. The controls are on the pack and you just plug the heads (lights) into the pack. (like the Speedotron) Some of these might be battery powered, thus allowing remote operation, but they typically need to be plugged in.

Monolights (like the D-lites) have all the electronics and controls in one unit with the light. It just needs to be plugged into a power source (AC power or a batter) but not into a 'power pack'.

So basically the D-Lite can only be used with power outlets.
So I will need something that works with power packs.

I am a bit confused at this time... but i learned a lot. Hopefully i will come up with a solution by the end of this month. Until now i will either buy alienbees or i have to spend more money on something else. And since i am not settled on the alienbees due to the fact that will be a lot of trouble with the warranty i guess i'll have to get more money for something else. :(


LATER EDIT:
Also there are systems that work with power packs and power outlets right?
 
So basically the D-Lite can only be used with power outlets.
Power outlets or a battery....like the Vagabond. I think Elinchrom might have a similar product.

So I will need something that works with power packs.
Most power packs are not batteries...they still need to be plugged into an outlet. Look at that Speedotron. In the lower right corner of the face, is the outlet where the power cord plugs in.

You could probably plug that power cord into a battery/inverter.

In other words, you can go with either a pack/head system or a monolight system. Either one will also need a power source.

Also there are systems that work with power packs and power outlets right?
Yes. Have a look at the Elinchrom Ranger RX. It's a battery powered power pack. So it's everything you'd need. But it's not cheap.
 

Thanks. That's actually some cool gear, i'll try to digg up some more info, see if it's worth it. Also £20 for send it to my home it's not bad, and also offers warranty all over EU :)
I might consider this :)


So basically the D-Lite can only be used with power outlets.
Power outlets or a battery....like the Vagabond. I think Elinchrom might have a similar product.

So I will need something that works with power packs.
Most power packs are not batteries...they still need to be plugged into an outlet. Look at that Speedotron. In the lower right corner of the face, is the outlet where the power cord plugs in.

You could probably plug that power cord into a battery/inverter.

In other words, you can go with either a pack/head system or a monolight system. Either one will also need a power source.

Also there are systems that work with power packs and power outlets right?
Yes. Have a look at the Elinchrom Ranger RX. It's a battery powered power pack. So it's everything you'd need. But it's not cheap.

I understand now :)
Thank you.
 
This is the battery system I would suggest you purchase for location work.
Innovatronix Incorporated | Products & Services

Tronix Explorer XT battery, 230volt/50Hz AC for European countries. 1200 watts peak power, 2400 watts total power. It has two, 12-volt, 7 Ampere hour batteries for a total 24 volt power source. It is more powerful and has a greater capacity than the Paul C. Buff Vagabond II model, plus it has two power outlets designed in--not one, but two outlets. This currently retails for $349 US dollars.

For flash units, you will I assume want 220 volt capable units, so that they can also be run off of wall AC power which is 220 volt/50Hz in Romania. Speedotron makes 220 volt compatible poer packs and light heads, in both the Black Line and the Brown Line. For affordable, lower-cost but pwoerful loction lightign, capable of overpowing the sun at 400 watt-seconds at ISO 200 at 1/200 second at rouhgly 15 feet from flash to subject, with the camera set to f/16 with the standard 11.5 inch reflector outdoors in bright August sunshine next to a bright house, the 1204 power supply will overpower the sun by two stops with one light head, or will give you 2 lights that can overpower daylight, if you need two lights. Speedotron Products

Not sure how much finesse and sophistication you need...but I would definitely NOT suggest a 110 volt AC-only system, but rather a 220 volt AC system,and then running that of of the Innovatronix inverter/battery on-location.
 
Tronix Explorer XT battery, 230volt/50Hz AC for European countries. 1200 watts peak power, 2400 watts total power. It has two, 12-volt, 7 Ampere hour batteries for a total 24 volt power source. It is more powerful and has a greater capacity than the Paul C. Buff Vagabond II model, plus it has two power outlets designed in--not one, but two outlets. This currently retails for $349 US dollars.
That's the one I was trying to think of. Thanks.

Although, I don't know why you have to mention the two outlets (vs one on the Vagabond) every single time. It's not hard to use a muti-plug adapter, a power strip or an extension cord etc.
 
tion the two outlets (vs one on the Vagabond) every single time. It's not hard to use a muti-plug adapter, a power strip or an extension cord etc.
<raises hand> I know! I know!

...but I won't say anything. ;)
 
Tronix Explorer XT battery, 230volt/50Hz AC for European countries. 1200 watts peak power, 2400 watts total power. It has two, 12-volt, 7 Ampere hour batteries for a total 24 volt power source. It is more powerful and has a greater capacity than the Paul C. Buff Vagabond II model, plus it has two power outlets designed in--not one, but two outlets. This currently retails for $349 US dollars.
That's the one I was trying to think of. Thanks.

Although, I don't know why you have to mention the two outlets (vs one on the Vagabond) every single time. It's not hard to use a muti-plug adapter, a power strip or an extension cord etc.


YEAH...every single time I mention it because for anybody that wants to bring along two monolights and plug them in directly, the Innovatronix company spent the extra $2.49 for the second outlet--so that one NEVER, ever has to carry along a power strip, so he can look like a dork. The obvious design decision to put the second power outlet on the Innovatronix line of equipment shows that they cared enough to spend a SMALL amount more, so that the equipment looks professional and has a feature that is very valuable. Lose the power strip, and you have a ONE-light inverter.

Two outlets is better than one. Also it two, higher-capacity batteries. I also mention THAT every time as well. When spending $350, it's nice to know that your needs are being taken care of by a company that uses smart design sense, and doesn't rely on a hillbilly power strip lash-up to power a second light because they were too cheap to wire in a 2nd outlet.
 
Fair enough, but the Explorer is also a bigger unit and it looks like the travel bag is an optional extra. You might say that PCB is taking care of people's needs by making it smaller and including a bag. ;)
 
Look at Calumet www.calumetphoto.com . They have some sets in your $1500 price range that include 2 nice variable strobes, a carrying case, nice stands, and reflector umbrellas. Since their units are made by Bowens and are compatible with Bowens accessories, they should be available in the correct voltages and Bowens/Calumet accessories should fit. The Calumet/Bowens units also work well with radio triggering and Sekonic meters.
 
This is the battery system I would suggest you purchase for location work.
Innovatronix Incorporated | Products & Services

Tronix Explorer XT battery, 230volt/50Hz AC for European countries. 1200 watts peak power, 2400 watts total power. It has two, 12-volt, 7 Ampere hour batteries for a total 24 volt power source. It is more powerful and has a greater capacity than the Paul C. Buff Vagabond II model, plus it has two power outlets designed in--not one, but two outlets. This currently retails for $349 US dollars.

For flash units, you will I assume want 220 volt capable units, so that they can also be run off of wall AC power which is 220 volt/50Hz in Romania. Speedotron makes 220 volt compatible poer packs and light heads, in both the Black Line and the Brown Line. For affordable, lower-cost but pwoerful loction lightign, capable of overpowing the sun at 400 watt-seconds at ISO 200 at 1/200 second at rouhgly 15 feet from flash to subject, with the camera set to f/16 with the standard 11.5 inch reflector outdoors in bright August sunshine next to a bright house, the 1204 power supply will overpower the sun by two stops with one light head, or will give you 2 lights that can overpower daylight, if you need two lights. Speedotron Products

Not sure how much finesse and sophistication you need...but I would definitely NOT suggest a 110 volt AC-only system, but rather a 220 volt AC system,and then running that of of the Innovatronix inverter/battery on-location.

That's a very good and cheap option, thank you Derrel.




LATER EDIT:
Hey guys, can i build my self a battery with any kind of battery used at a powerpack and the right inverter?
I think that with a cheap powerful battery and the right inverter I can have enough juice for lets say a 600W light. Am I right?
I need powerful lights because I will need to shoot groups and maybe even cars.
What do you think?... it's a good idea?
 
Last edited:
Might be off topic but what does this mean?

Don’t be bothered with excessive wiring.
The B400 has a built-in slave tripper, disconnected by plugging in the sync cord, to allow wireless firing where the unit will fire whenever it “sees” a flash from another source. It will automatically dump the excess power, removing the excess charge when the flashpower is adjusted from a higher to a lower setting.


So any flash goes off and its detected by all AlienBees and they flash?

Thanks and feel free to relocate if this question is not appropriate here...
just seemed to get me thinking reading this post.....
 
Yes,leroyneal, that's the way a built-in or add-on slave trigger works: it "senses" a flash burst, which is a rapidly-increasing brightness, and that triggers a command to fire flash units that are connected to the slave trigger. Other flash units also equipped with active (switched-on,not turned off) slave triggers will ALSO simultaneously fire,even though they are not wired together.

Many slaves, however, have an output, which you CAN use to wire-connect the slave and flash to another flash unit's PC connector. SO when the ad copy says "avoid excessive wiring", they mean that there's no need to have all the flashes connected together with wires; virtually ALL monolight flash units have a built-in slave trigger, and it has not been necessary to wire flash units together for 40+ years. It's advertising copy. But not, not just "any flash goes off"--the flash must NOT BE, repeat, must not be an "automatic TTL" type of flash burst on a new digital camera that uses a pre-flash to calculate the amount of flash needed for an automatic flash exposure; the proper concept is any normal flash, or any manual flash burst, but NOT the kind of flash where there's a short pre-flash followed by a split second later, the actual flash used to take the picture, which is the way Canon FE-TL and Nikon i-TTL flash works.

Most photo slaves will fire at the pre-flash; there are some higher-technology slaves that can ignore the pre-flash signals from modernm,automated flash systems, but they are in a decided minority.
 
Constantin,

I cannot tell from your original post if you are an amateur or a pro or going pro. If you are pro or going pro, try and buy something in the nearest photo store to you. If you were to buy ABs which are not distributed in Europe at all and you run into a problem or need an accessory, can you be sure to get it through your friend in the US within a reasonable time. Keep in mind you will always need to go through someone in the US to deal with AB.

I have had to run to the store and get an extra light and I was sure glad that my brand of strobes was sold and rented in my town. It can be a life saver. Especially when you are starting out and don't yet know what you are doing as was my case once upon a time.


One note on power packs/heads and monolights. I do not like cords running all over the place in my studio where customers/models walk so I only use monolights on the floor. They can also be further apart than heads with power packs as there are no extension cords to go between the power packs and the heads.

I do use power packs/heads but only in my large softboxes that require more than one head. In that case they are great but on the floor I only want monolights. Just a little something to think about.
 
Thanks Guys
I am by no means a Pro but aspiring to one day... I live in the US so hopefully accessibility to products will go smoothly.
My main jobs at current are a Wedding or two each summer and in the 9 months surrounding them about 8 to ten "Team shoots" composed of both Indoor and outdoor Team and Individual "Memory Mate" style shoots.
I have done OK with my Speed-lites so far but would really like to take things to the next level. The poor little flashes can only do so much.

Any suggestions given this info ?
I like the portable power pack of the Vagabon power unit.

However I am up for All suggestions

Thx again
PS So if I were to have 2 AB400s out to each side of a team shoot my 550flash would trigger the two AB400s?
 
Ha ha
THat was a TPF Noob! question huh?
Sadly though I do not really know......

thx guys
 

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