D5000 indoor dancing photography

Using your 18-55mm zoom, take some test shots (of people, preferably) at the approximate focal lengths as the three lenses that Derrel has recommended. Since you already have some experience with the distances involved at the actual dance venue, you will be able to see which lens would be the best choice. Get that lens.
 
I would definately recommend the 35mm 1.8 Nikon or even the 50mm. Then the key is to shoot in Manual mode. In this case, i always try to down the iso to 800 (for limiting the noise) and shoot at least at 1/200 if the subject is moving fase, 1/20 is the subject is not moving. And dont forget to shoot in RAW so that you can manage good exposition then.
 
1/200, f1.8, and iso800 is going to result in a very dark image in sub-par lighting conditions.

1/20 is going to result in a very blurry image in all conditions.
 
Dont agree. I shot plenty photo at 1/200 iso800 f1.8. And for static subject 1/20 result in perfectly sharp photo :)

1/200, f1.8, and iso800 is going to result in a very dark image in sub-par lighting conditions.

1/20 is going to result in a very blurry image in all conditions.
 
It's for Rock n Roll dancing. In small country halls/gymnasiums.


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A thought occurs, depending on your budget you might want to seriously consider a used Nikon D600. As far as shooting in lowlight it would be a huge step up from your current D5000.

It would be a larger investment of course, you'd end up having to replace a lot of your current lens line up. But I think you'd find long term it would also be well worth it if most of what your shooting are in the lighting conditions you describe.
 
Hmmm I'll have to look into it... my funds are quite tight but may e


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I shoot a D600 myself, in combination with an older Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 without the built in focus motor. You should be able to pick up both for around $1000 and it would be a very good combo for the types of lighting conditions you describe.

20161006_1382 by Todd Robbins, on Flickr

This was shot indoors at the zoo in some pretty bad lighting, I see a world of difference between these and the ones I used to shoot with APS-C. This was actually shot at ISO 6400.
 
  • ƒ/5.0
  • 130.0 mm
  • 1/40
  • 6400

assuming you had shot that at f/1.8, you still would have been at ISO 8000... ISO 800 would be -3.33EV
 
  • ƒ/5.0
  • 130.0 mm
  • 1/40
  • 6400
assuming you had shot that at f/1.8, you still would have been at ISO 8000... ISO 800 would be -3.33EV

Umm...not really sure what your point is, just pointing out the the op that a FF camera and a halfway decent 2.8 lens might be a good idea considering the type of photography he is wanting to do...
 
it just helped support my argument above with aubes
 

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