Damn..Talk About Bittersweet

[Garbz]

Basically an illustration of what kundalini is saying, both of these are shot at f/2.8, both subjects are the same size in camera, the only difference is one is shot at 28mm and the other closer to 200mm.

So f/2.8 may be fine if you're taking a photo at close range with a wide angle amongst other people of interest, but if you're going to make a paparazzi snap from across the room the Depth of Field will be very narrow due to the subject to camera, and subject to background ratios.

Also on top of that I have no idea what kind of conference you are talking about but typically if you're trying to get photos of people attending some event, shorter focal lengths i.e. <80mm often tend to a much more personal perspective of being in the action, rather than the stalkerish watching from the outside look.

If I had a choice I'd look for something like a 17-55mm or equivalent to allow you the most flexibility when photographing this type of event. But this is really personal taste.

 

[PhilGarber]

Yeah..Flexibility is what I'm going for. The organization has asked if I will need anything else to shoot the conference. I was thinking about asking to be reimbursed the cost of buying a 18-55mm IS lens. If I buy that, and rent the 70-mm f/2.8 IS L lens, I figure I'll end up with a pretty kick ass set-up.

 

[Alleh Lindquist]

Understanding Exposure By Bryan Peterson. I suggest you read it. You will want both the 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8

 

[PhilGarber]

I've read Understanding Exposure. Thanks for the tip on lenses though.

 

[PhilGarber]

Double post.

 

[bhop]

When i'm shooting events, I use both of my dSLRs. One with my 70-200 and another with my 17-50 (both f/2.8). One around my neck, one over the shoulder. That way I have my close up shots and my distant shots covered, and with two bodies, I don't have to switch lenses. If it's possible for you to do something similar, that'd be ideal.

 

[PhilGarber]

That sounds like it would work well, but I cannot do that as I only have one body.

 

[Mike_E]

Phil, who's paying you and what do they want?

 

[Montana]

Sorry, but for being the photographer for this event you sure are off to a rough start. I would maybe even suggest two fast primes like an 85 or 135 on the longer end and a 35 or 50 normal. Like mentioned earlier, 2.8 zooms would be great as well, but what body are you shooting with? How is your higher ISO noise in that body? Do you have a hotshoe flash?

 

[JerryPH]

If you're a good distance away, the Dof will not be razor thin at f/2.8. Search for a thread that JerryPH started a several months ago to give you an example.

Thank-you for the credit, I appreciate it.

Yes, kundalini is very right. If you want less background blur, set the lens to 70mm and get a little closer vs setting it to 200mm and being farther away, but getting back a little more at shorter focal lengths will increase DOF. Still, make sure that the ratio of distance from camera to subject is less than ratio of subject to background and bokeh is reduced.

This is why even a picture at F/1.4 has a very deep DOF:

I used a 30mm prime at F/1.4 but I was far from the subject (the band leader) and therefore had a nice deep DOF.

If you are not careful, even at F/8 you can get background blur. The example is like this picture:

Though the picture is set at a pretty high F/7.1, we still get a good amount of blur because I was set at 200mm and there was a relatively short distance between camera to subject and a further ratio of distance in the subject to background ratio. The foreground blurred person is for the exact same reasons. It is all about the focal distances and ratios. Once you understand this, you can take nice shots at F/2.8 and still get decent DOF.

On that subject, having a lens that can do F/2.8 doesn't get you just a faster lens that is a little better in lower light, but also a lens that is much sharper and better built. A lens that can do F/2.8 will give superior results at F/4 than a lens who's biggest aperture is F/4... when both lenses are at F/4.

Last little point... I hope you try to get that lens a couple of days before you need to use it. Each lens has a personality and a feel... and if you rent it on the same day you use it, if you are like me, your results will pretty much suck until you've practiced with the lens some. I suggest that you do not rent it and start to use the lens on the day you want your best results from it.

 

[PhilGarber]

Phil, who's paying you and what do they want?

I am doing this completely out of charity. I am a member of the group in question. They want candid shots of the workshops and such. I'm much to scared to ask to be paid, as I'm still really just a serious amateur.

 

[PhilGarber]

Thanks Jerry! I am making sure to have the lens at least 2 days in advance (the most time in advance I could get the lens would be like, a week).

 

[gsgary]

Hey all,

Talk about friggin' bittersweet.. I'll be going to Scottsdale AZ for a conference were I'm going to be the official photographer, and I'm going to rent this. Considering I only own a plastic 18-55, it's gonna be pure heaven when I'm shooting with it, but it'll be like losing a pet dog when I have to return it.. That's all, just thought I'd share the joy and the pain.

Phil,

No it won't unless the conference is outside that lens is too slow

 

[gsgary]

Camera to subject + subject to background will have a good deal of affect on how your DoF will show. If you're a good distance away, the Dof will not be razor thin at f/2.8. Search for a thread that JerryPH started a several months ago to give you an example.

I would rent nothing less than (constant) f/2.8 if getting a zoom.

What do you mean by "thin"? Do you mean sharp, or soft? Rahh..So many terms I still don't know:er:.

Like this see how much is in focus (taken with 300F2.8L on a 5D )

 

[JIP]

If you're a good distance away, the Dof will not be razor thin at f/2.8. Search for a thread that JerryPH started a several months ago to give you an example.

.

On that subject, having a lens that can do F/2.8 doesn't get you just a faster lens that is a little better in lower light, but also a lens that is much sharper and better built. A lens that can do F/2.8 will give superior results at F/4 than a lens who's biggest aperture is F/4... when both lenses are at F/4.

Last little point... I hope you try to get that lens a couple of days before you need to use it. Each lens has a personality and a feel... and if you rent it on the same day you use it, if you are like me, your results will pretty much suck until you've practiced with the lens some. I suggest that you do not rent it and start to use the lens on the day you want your best results from it.

I think this is an important point in this discussion. Just because you are using a lens that has a 2.8 maximun aperture IT DOES NOT MEAN YOU HAVE TO SHOOT IN 2.8. A 2.8 lens is simply a lens that has larger glass that is sharper and brighter and generally much better constructed. You still have the entire range of apertures at your disposal and can use them at will. Personally I think you ned 2 lenses (and mabye 2 bodies) for an event like this. SOmething in the 24-70 range and the 70-200 range and then you will be able to cover the possibilities.