Developing B&W Tips

poker_jake

No longer a newbie, moving up!
Joined
Dec 1, 2011
Messages
321
Reaction score
55
Location
Duluth, MN
Can others edit my Photos
Photos OK to edit
I purchased a Nikon FE with Ilford Pan F 50 and Delta 400 with the intention of developing it at home and wondering if you guys have any tips or references on how to.

What developer and fixer do you recommend and should I use a stopper?

Also I've been looking at an Epson v600 for scanning the negatives, how would it compare to a lab scanning?
 
The only part of the chemistry that I am concerned with is the Developer.
Each has it's own characteristics with different films.

I personally use Ifosol S and Rodinal.
 
Film developer: Kodak's HC-110, Dilution B is the standard against which other developers are measured--for me,at least. I've developed a lot of film in highly diluted Rodinal, and it produces big, bold, obvious grain. If you like GRAIN, Rodinal can emphasize it. I'm not familiar with Pan F or Delta 400.

I do not think the Epson V600 has high-enough resolution to scan 35mm negatives well enough to do them justice; I think there are many other, better, dedicated small-format scanners available, at various price points.

Stop bath is cheap: I would say, yes, use one. Make sure you fix the negs properly. And make doubly sure that the film washing is done properly!!!

Consistency in measuring, and timing of operations, and repeatability of operations, and careful,accurate measuring and mixing are very important. For example, HC-110 is so powerfully concentrated that when used as a one-shot developer, 1/4 ounce is enough to develop one 36 exposure roll of B&W film; 1/2 ounce of HC-110 "syrup", which is what it looks like, syrup, is enough to develop two rolls of film; Now, the thing is this: measuring out 1/4 or 1/2 ounce of solution is a very critical task. The solution must be properly rinsed from the measuring graduate and into the water that makes up the developer. this is what I mean by consistency, and accuracy, and repeatability being important factors in developing film. No matter what routine one uses, when using the HIGHLY-concentrated liquid developers like HC-110 or Rodinal, one must always strive to use the same,exact methods of measuring,rinsing, and mixing of the concentrate into the final developer solution.
 
Thanks for the replies, what scanner would you recommend? I could see myself getting into mf black and white if I enjoy this enough as kind of a hobby with in a hobby.
 
Second everything Derrel said. I loved HC110 when I shot film and used it for years, except for developing TMax film in TMax developer, which I thought did a better job for that film.

If you really want to save money you can use a little white vinegar in water as a stop bath. White vinegar is pretty much just acetic acid in water.
 
Listen to Derrel's lab practice tips. This is what chemists must always keep in mind, pro or amateur.
 
I purchased a Nikon FE with Ilford Pan F 50 and Delta 400 with the intention of developing it at home and wondering if you guys have any tips or references on how to.

What developer and fixer do you recommend and should I use a stopper?

Also I've been looking at an Epson v600 for scanning the negatives, how would it compare to a lab scanning?
Hi Jake (Is "poker" a sign of you liking risks ? :) ). Choice of developer is important and then not that much. Most modern, ready to use developers are good. The question is, if you can handle them. The difference between digital and film is also this, that digital is good out of the box, film requires personal experience. So don't take any suggestions from us here as an absolute answer. If you are a total novice I would suggest to stay away from HC110, but rather use D76 (no one advocated this ). Why ? Easier to handle with the most basic equipment. Buy 1l packet, dissolve by instruction and then use in 1+1 dilution as a one shot developer That will work well on both types of film you have. Dennis pointed to you initial source of times and temperatures of development for your films, remember, they are just starting point and not a guarantee of perfect development. You gonna have to work out your own times and agitation schemes as it depends on many factors no one here can foresee (real speed of the shutter, real readings of the light meter, real readings of your thermometer, type of water you are using to name the most important). So please don't get upset if the first film will be not up to your expectations, just come back here so the guys can make some more accurate analysis.
 
The V600 has more than enough resolution--6400dpi optical is very high, about twice what you need to capture 99% of the detail in fine grain film.

The main issue with scanning on a flatbed is dust and focus--the epson flatbeds are fixed focus, which means you may need to carefully adjust your film holder to achieve the sharpest scans (I used layers of masking tape to dial it in).

If you're scanning a lot of film, the flatbed is preferable because it can do multiple frames at a time--it can be very time consuming to feed a dedicated scanner one frame at a time. Flatbeds also often offer scanning medium and large format film.
 
I use a V600. I find that it meets my needs fine. Of course I would love to have a better scanner, but for the money I'd say it's hard to beat.

I agree with Derrel - definitely use stop bath. A lot of people will say that water works just as well - two things: I don't believe that, and stop bath is insanely cheap. Also, your fixer will last longer if you use stop bath.


I sort of went through a stage where I wanted to try every developer I could get my hands on... Currently I am only using Rodinal, HC-110, and T-Max. I will probably limit that to Rodinal and T-max once my supply of HC-110 runs out... Not that I don't like HC-110, I just like T-Max more. If I was ever going to limit myself to one developer, it would be Rodinal.
 

Most reactions

New Topics

Back
Top