I'm looking for some advice for which developer to use when developing Tmax 100 film. After reading reviews on different sites there seems to be a mixture of opinion. What are the main differences when using the different common developers on the market? The main thing I would be looking for in my negatives is fineness of the grain, but would like to here other peoples experiences when developing this film
I've usually used the TMax developer, and typically find that it's quite satisfactory with TMax films for producing fine grain. You could try using a fine grain developer such as Microdol-X or Xtol, but I can't say much about them as I've never used them.
if grain is really a big issue then go with a fine grain devolper but also look at how long the fine grain devolper take to devolp the film the longer the time the fuzzier the edge will become. (which could be good or bad) But if your shooting 35mm and not planning to enlarge to something very big you'd be fine with just D-76 or the t-max devolper.
My practice has been to begin with the manufacturer's primary recommendation for several rolls to build up a base of experience. After that, new developers can be checked against the 'standard.' A microscope at 20x or higher is helpful when checking resolution chart negs. Failing that, there's always the ol' slide projector. Grey scales can be densitometered or can be visually A-B'ed in several ways.
Shoot a test roll to calibrate the meter to the film and the film to the developer. I guess it's an ASA test. Choose a developer like T-Max, which I like for medium format since it preduces almost no grain with these T-Grain films and keeps the film speed spot on unlike Microdol-X which will also give no grain but will cut your ASA in half. Both developers have a nice contrast and both have similar times... I use 12minutes 1:1 dilution at 70° or the other I like to use is 8 minutes at full strength @ 70°. Either way do the test rolls so there is no doubt as to what you will get. I get perfect shadow detail and still maintain hightlight details without blocking out. Shott a gray card and include a black and a white towel so you have some texture to look for in the details. I have to do some experimenting again with my films to see if what I once read in an article that T-Grain films have several sized grains, each size more sensative than the other as well as each reacting to development differently. The article said that if you use longer developing times, all the grain sizes come up making for sharper pictures, higher resolution. I've been very happy with the results I get, in fact I have trouble focusing my negatives, even with a grain scope since the grain is so small and fine, especially with 100 speed film. The 400 speed film has a slightly larger grain but not noticeable untill you start getting into 16x20s. 8x10 grain is not detectable at all.
