Filter recommendations or no?

JohnS.

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This past weekend, I went to Boston with my family and took some pictures with my camera. The weather was insanely beautiful and nice so I didn't have any issues with settings and what not. The only issue I had was when I took pictures that involved the sky being in the picture, the sky was ridiculously bright with the rest of the picture looking somewhat normal.

I only take pictures for fun. I do not have Lightroom, Photoshop, etc. so I do zero editing. And it's not like I'm sharing these photos with everyone and posting them all over the place. With that being said, would you guys still recommend getting a couple of filters? I was thinking about picking up a polarizing filter and ND filter (I like to shoot landscape if I see something that catches me eye) but I don't know if it's worth it. I'm not looking for professional and amazing looking photos, but by the same token, I would be happy if my pictures turned out a little more even and nicer. If you would recommend my getting filters, what brand?

Thanks all.
 
Before my last vacation I took a polarizing filter and now I just don't put it off on sunny days. It's very easy to feel difference just go to your local shop and ask to try one you will see in the viewfinder how more contrast the sky become. I can't recomend you any particular brand but I have Marumi filter and think it does its job quite well and I don't see any degradations in quality. The are some drawbacks of using polarizing filter one need to put it off indoor and it's become imposible to use lense hoods.
 
What price? I'd recommend the Lee 100mm system, but for a good set of ND filters and such you're looking at north of $500.

Jake


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Filter prices vary dramatically from a few dollars to hundreds of dollars.
The quality varies just as much too.

And then you have the screw on filters, and the square filters.
With screw on you can normally also use your lens hood, and they screw on and off when needed.
The square filters have an adapter on the lens and the lens hood is kept off.

You also need to think a bit about the size if you get screw on filters. Say your lens takes a size 67mm (the thread on the inside of the lens, your lens cap should hav ethe size on it on the inside). But if you buy a larger lens, say a 72 or 77mm then those 67 don't fit. Some ppl buy only 77mm and use a step-up ring to use with a smaller lens (in which case the lens hood probably won't fit). So if you have multiple lenses you'll have to think about what you want to do. Cheaper filters are easier to forget about if you plan on buying new lenses in the future and want to get a filter the same size as you current lens(es).

I use B+W filters but they are more on the expensive side.
 
Ah, I guess I should've included more details.

If I were to get filters, I'd get the screw on type and I'd only get 2 filters, both 67mm, and they'd be polarizing and ND (I think). I'm only looking to use
 
With ND you have various ND filters which will affect how much light is blocked.

Look at this chart
Neutral density filter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The "common" NDs are
ND2
ND4
ND8
ND64 (Lee filters refers to this as a Little Stopper)
ND1024 (Lee filters refers to this as a Big Stopper)

The ND2 I use on really bright days, the same as you would a Circular Polarizer
whereas ND1024 I use to take, say 60 second exposures of waterfalls to get silky looking water.


Also, I think you are looking at a Circular Polarizer as your 1st, which is good when shooting on bright days to bring down the brightness of the sky.
sometimes known as a C-POL, CPOL or CPL if you look at them that is the normal stamp identifier.

If you are doing this just for Landscapes. Then maybe just look into a CPL for now.
Though a square GND (Graduated Neutral Density) filter probably would do best in the long run if you really like doing landscape photography as it is just much more flexible and versatile. I have all screw on CPL and NDs, and I see the advantages to the square ones. That's next on my list.
 
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You do not want ND filters but rather graduated ND filters. The graduated type darkens the sky only while keeping the foreground normal. That part of the filter is clear. ND filters apply darkening to the entire filter and has a different purpose of allowing longer shutter speeds for blurring motion.

Google graduated neutral density filters and read about the different types that are available - basically those that screw on that forces you to put the transition in the middle of the view. The other type slides in an adapter in front of the lens so you can change where the transition occurs. There are also different densities available as well as sharp and more gradual transitions.

A good polarizing filter is also another filter that is really useful.

Good luck.
 
With ND you have various ND filters which will affect how much light is blocked.

Look at this chart
Neutral density filter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The "common" NDs are
ND2
ND4
ND8
ND64 (Lee filters refers to this as a Little Stopper)
ND1024 (Lee filters refers to this as a Big Stopper)

The ND2 I use on really bright days, the same as you would a Circular Polarizer
whereas ND1024 I use to take, say 60 second exposures of waterfalls to get silky looking water.


Also, I think you are looking at a Circular Polarizer as your 1st, which is good when shooting on bright days to bring down the brightness of the sky.
sometimes known as a C-POL, CPOL or CPL if you look at them that is the normal stamp identifier.

If you are doing this just for Landscapes. Then maybe just look into a CPL for now.
Though a square GND (Graduated Neutral Density) filter probably would do best in the long run if you really like doing landscape photography as it is just much more flexible and versatile. I have all screw on CPL and NDs, and I see the advantages to the square ones. That's next on my list.

I've always been confused about the whole CPL vs. Polarizer thing. I look into getting filters a few times a year and never end up getting them and never remember which ones are which lol.

I think I'd like a polarizer for when I'm out taking pictures with family on trips and stuff and I need to tone down the sky but keep the foreground bright.

And I have looked into the square ones but you have to get a mount for the end of your camera for those don't you? I have no problem screwing filters on and off between lens changes as I only have 2 lenses at the moment lol.

You do not want ND filters but rather graduated ND filters. The graduated type darkens the sky only while keeping the foreground normal. That part of the filter is clear. ND filters apply darkening to the entire filter and has a different purpose of allowing longer shutter speeds for blurring motion.

Google graduated neutral density filters and read about the different types that are available - basically those that screw on that forces you to put the transition in the middle of the view. The other type slides in an adapter in front of the lens so you can change where the transition occurs. There are also different densities available as well as sharp and more gradual transitions.

A good polarizing filter is also another filter that is really useful.

Good luck.

I looked at GND's and I thought an ND would better suit my needs, no? But now that you mention it, I suppose I could look into getting a GND as well.

So many choices...

Thanks everyone!
 
A Circular Polarizer is kinda like a GND.
Just that the square GNDs are much more versatile and flexible.

A ND is consistent throughout the entire lens.

A GND is gradiented from, say top to bottom. The bottom being clear and the top being dark - as an example
Graduated neutral density filter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Using Graduated Neutral Density Filters

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...ity-filters-why-you-need-them-landscapes.html


A C-POL is somewhat like a GND except for screw-in. You have to adjust the "top" by rotating the outer polarizer to give the most darkness to the top. I notch mine so I can feel it with my finger.
Polarizing filter (photography) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
How to Use and Buy Polarizing Filters - Digital Photography School


I'd say buy yourself a CPOL for now from what you list that you want it for. It's a good first filter.
 
As a side note - you really don't want to get a screw-on grad nd filter. They're designed so that the gradation goes perfectly from top to bottom, but there may be occasions where you want the gradation to go more diagonally. A screw-on filter is useless in such a situation.
 
In my toolkit, I have CPL (polarizing) filters, ND filters (3x, 10x), and Graduated ND filter (rectangular, with adaptors for different filter thread sizes.

The CPL is good for darkening blue sky (strongest effect 90 degrees from position of sun), reducing glare off water, smooth surfaces, and increasing the saturation (with shiny leaves, etc.). You rotate the ring until you get the right amount of glare reduction.

The ND is used to reduce the overall light. Useful when I want a wide aperture AND a lower shutter speed, and there's too much light. The 10x is good for smoothing moving water, removing people from crowded places, blurring clouds, etc.

The grad ND filter is used to reduce the brightness of (usually) the sky so it more closely matches the reflectance of the ground/water. Graduated ND filters come in various densities and varying degrees of hardness of transition between the clear and the dark areas. You slide the filter up and down to position the transition at a natural line (horizon, usually), and since the horizon is usually NOT in the middle of the frame (depends on your composition), the transition is usually not at the center of the lens, so a movable filter that can be slid up or down is better.

The polarizer gets most use. The ND filters are special-purpose filters, but make images possible that would otherwise require a fair amount of post-processing work. The following image was taken with a grad ND filter reducing the brightness of the sky relative to the water.

$Dusk in the harbour_4473 V2.JPG
 

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