Fixer Test

Commonman

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I have read that a way of testing my fix solution is to check the clearing time with a piece of dry film.

Let's say I've got an exposed roll of 120 film. Obviously, if I try to get a piece of dry film from such a roll, I run the danger of exposing the film to additional light. If I try an do this test in the dark, how can I see (unless I used a dark room light). Did I just answer my own question?

If I take the test strip of film after I have developed and "stopped" it, then it's not "dry film" is it?

I'm just looking for some clarification before I go ahead with the test.
 
They make fix indicator solutions IIRC, which change color when the fix is extinguished.
 
Sorry, I somehow duplicated the message when attempting to edit.

Regarding the stuff that you use to add to the fix, yes - I don't know why I did not think of that. I used it all the time when printing. I guess I did not think of it.

The stuff I have turns white/milky if the fixer is exhausted. If the fixer is still good, it just disappears in the fixer solution.
 
I'm still hoping to get an answer to my original question.
And does "clearing" mean just was it sounds like? Does the fixer turn the emulsion from opaque to clear?
 
Yes. You clear in fix, and then you clear the fix (i.e. wash). No noticeable difference in opacity when washing though.
 
It's a good question. You can simply follow the manufacturer's recommendations for time and capacity (ie number of films that can be fixed), or you can use the ends of 35 mm film that you have saved up for the purpose. Clearing times vary from film to film, so the same film type should be used for the capacity test (discard when the clearing time is twice that of the original fixer). Yellow fixer is also a bad sign, unless it is carry-over from an indicator stop bath.

If you want to, you can have a peek at the film after it has been fixing for at least 1 minute.

Best,
Helen
 

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