Focus & ISO problem with my D7000

Jazziat · Mar 21, 2012

Hello everybody,

Its my first time to speak about my D7000 after being a user for the camera around 3 months now.

I started having D5000, then upgraded to D90 and then D7000 was my last station

Okay, D7000 is having several more features and body is more professional than the D90.

But i have a problem that i can`t really understand in my D7000

Camera is producing noise starting from ISO 1600 ... which is very strange ... because its very loud noticeable noise !!!

And in some photos ... noise on ISO1600 and 3200 is very similar to each others.

Another thing is ... i have a focus problem:

using for example lens Sigma 24:70 f2,8 (which is supposed to be a very good lens), i through focus points on specific MICRO thing ... i capture the photo finding that the pre focused point is blurred and another part of the picture is focused ... and all the time, the focus points is being thrown to the mid right !!!!

I seriously don`t understand whats going on ... and i would love to share my experience with you ... maybe i`m doing something wrong ... selecting wrong focusing system !!!

Thanks in advance for the help

Jazziat

Kerbouchard · Mar 21, 2012

Do you see the same issues with other lenses or just the Sigma 24-70? Does the 24-70 act the same way on your other camera bodies?

The Sigma is notorious for focus issues. The D7000 has a AF calibration feature that you can use, but it won't work if the lens is decentered from left to right. It will only work if you are consistently focussing on something just past or just before the focus point.

Basically, it sounds like you have two separate issues and they are not related. The noise you see is probably because the shot is underexposed and your focus issues are likely because there is something wrong with your lens.

Mach0 · Mar 21, 2012

^^x2

Make sure your exposing correctly. I've gotten pretty clean results are 6400 with a d90.

o hey tyler · Mar 21, 2012

You should try posting actual photos... With EXIF data. So we can see what you're talking about.

Balmiesgirl · Mar 21, 2012

Jazziat said:
Hello everybody,

Its my first time to speak about my D7000 after being a user for the camera around 3 months now.

I started having D5000, then upgraded to D90 and then D7000 was my last station

Okay, D7000 is having several more features and body is more professional than the D90.

Jazziat

Sorry, I don't know the d7000 or d 90's well ( I shoot full frame) can you tell me how the d7000 BODY is more pro than the d90? Just curious....

o hey tyler · Mar 21, 2012

I'd say that the D7000 could be considered "more professional" (as a way to describe) than the D90. It has more focus points (incl. cross type), focus tracking, dual card slots, higher max shutter speed, faster continuous shooting, it's weather sealed, and has a 100% viewfinder.

I wouldn't consider it a pro-level body, but it certainly is more capable than the D90 in a lot of ways.

This is coming from a Canon user BTW. There are websites you can use to compare cameras.

Side by Side Comparison: Digital Photography Review

480sparky · Mar 21, 2012

o hey tyler said:
You should try posting actual photos... With EXIF data. So we can see what you're talking about.

This.

Plus, what Noise Reduction process are you engaging?

DorkSterr · Mar 21, 2012

Had this problem with my D7000 where everything looked noisy over 1250 ISO. Sent it to Nikon they said my Aperture lever was damaged.

o hey tyler · Mar 21, 2012

DorkSterr, did you drop your camera?

DorkSterr · Mar 21, 2012

No that's what really (can't say the word here) they automatically assumed that I did. And to tell you the truth this isn't the first time Nikon's screwed me.

KmH · Mar 21, 2012

The aperture lever is on the camera side of the lens mount. I'm not sure what the aperture lever has to do with image noise above 1250 ISO.

About he only way to damage it by dropping the camera would be to drop the camera without a lens being mounted.

But it can be damaged by impact by trying to mount a lens when the lens is not properly lined up with the mount.

Netskimmer · Mar 21, 2012

KmH said:
The aperture lever is on the camera side of the lens mount. I'm not sure what the aperture lever has to do with image noise above 1250 ISO.

About he only way to damage it by dropping the camera would be to drop the camera without a lens being mounted.

But it can be damaged by impact by trying to mount a lens when the lens is not properly lined up with the mount.

Only thing I could think of would be that the image would be underexposed even though the meter would show a proper exposure since the meter is assuming the aperture is openening to X but is actually only openning to Y due to damage to the actuator. Simply reviewing the image after it is taken could show if this is the case. I would think you would have to really jam a lens on there to damage the lever. I suppose if you dropped the camera on it's lens the impact shock could travel up the lens' aperture lever to the camera's lever but that seems like a long shot to me. We would definitly benefit from some examples with exif data attached.

WhiskeyTango · Mar 21, 2012

Netskimmer said:
KmH said:

The aperture lever is on the camera side of the lens mount. I'm not sure what the aperture lever has to do with image noise above 1250 ISO.

About he only way to damage it by dropping the camera would be to drop the camera without a lens being mounted.

But it can be damaged by impact by trying to mount a lens when the lens is not properly lined up with the mount.

Click to expand...

Only thing I could think of would be that the image would be underexposed even though the meter would show a proper exposure since the meter is assuming the aperture is openening to X but is actually only openning to Y due to damage to the actuator. Simply reviewing the image after it is taken could show if this is the case. I would think you would have to really jam a lens on there to damage the lever. I suppose if you dropped the camera on it's lens the impact shock could travel up the lens' aperture lever to the camera's lever but that seems like a long shot to me. We would definitly benefit from some examples with exif data attached.

What setting are you using for Active D lighting? If you're capturing RAW, what are you using to import/view the files?

If you're shooting RAW and importing with something other than Nikon's RAW viewer, the shots will be underexposed despite showing properly exposed histograms and previews on the camera LCD screen...

I saw a definite improvement in high ISO performance when I turned off Active D lighting.