Focusing - High Speed, Low Light Conditions (Sports)

Saddlebreds4me · May 16, 2009

I've got a question as it pertains to focusing when you are in a lower light (or really bad artificial lighting) and fast action - in my world I'm referring to horses in motion, but it really could apply to any sport especially an indoor sport.

I need more 'predictability' with my ability to focus quickly. It seems like I can get a few in a row and then they get too soft. Also keep in mind (and I know I've been urged to try a small flash and I do have two speedlights) but my preference is to stay away from any kind of flash. I believe I now have my ISO settings somewhat under control - but this 'just out of focus' or 'soft focus' thing is driving me nuts. (Please don't tell me a flash is needed, please don't tell me a flash is needed...lol)

My equipment: Nikon D700
Nikkor f/2.8 24-70
Nikkor f/2.8 80-200

I do have my camera on auto focus and at horse shows I shoot in "Manual" mode - and try to keep my shutter speed around 320 - and no lower than 250. My aperture setting usually stays at 2.8 - maybe gets to 3.2 but that's about it.

Can anyone give some advice? Should I not be shooting on auto focus? Thanks in advance for any information.

Sw1tchFX · May 17, 2009

When shooting action, try this:

Continuous focus

a1: focus + release so that the camera will keep reacquiring focus.
a3: 21 point just to give you headroom
a4: off(as long as you have the newest firmware, which you should anyway)
a5: AF-ON only (and when shooting, keep this pressed down, using teh shutter only as a release. When the shutter does AF too, there's a delay between shots)
a7: on just to keep things simple
a8: AF11 again, keep it smile, and faster to go from one side to another.

Shoot on Single shot, if you need to shoot fast, make your finger move fast, and get your timing better, don't just flail away at 5 or 8 fps, that's usually a recipe for disaster when the subject is moving towards you.

Using those settings, i've been able to get consistently great results shooting running events in much more close quarters then gaming, and have very few shots that are completely out of focus, and when they are, they're pretty much always my fault.

Saddlebreds4me · May 17, 2009

Wow - thanks so much! I am going to try your suggestions today!

I was playing with my AF-On Only button last night but I really need to be in the actual situation to see if it was working. But thank you very much!

If I can master what you are telling me, I will post some results.

Thanks again!

Saddlebreds4me · May 17, 2009

Sw1tchFX said:
When shooting action, try this:

Continuous focus

a1: focus + release so that the camera will keep reacquiring focus.
a3: 21 point just to give you headroom
a4: off(as long as you have the newest firmware, which you should anyway)
a5: AF-ON only (and when shooting, keep this pressed down, using teh shutter only as a release. When the shutter does AF too, there's a delay between shots)
a7: on just to keep things simple
a8: AF11 again, keep it smile, and faster to go from one side to another.

Shoot on Single shot, if you need to shoot fast, make your finger move fast, and get your timing better, don't just flail away at 5 or 8 fps, that's usually a recipe for disaster when the subject is moving towards you.

Using those settings, i've been able to get consistently great results shooting running events in much more close quarters then gaming, and have very few shots that are completely out of focus, and when they are, they're pretty much always my fault.

Here's what I got with your wonderful suggestions! And the lighting again well, was a bit of a challenge...but I'm pretty happy so THANKS!

I realize my WB is slightly off but I was really focusing (pun intended) on the focusing. I see what you mean by setting it on single shot - I tried both and the single shot looked much better to me. Will these settings change when I use my 24-70 lens? This horse was MOVING! I do like the way he had one eye on me the whole time

Saddlebreds4me · May 17, 2009

And I shot a couple of head shots that even to me seemed better...

Please ignore the red truck in the background of number 3 - This horse, who is a gelding, looked like a stallion for me today posing for his photos. I loved the look in his eye so I snapped it not really thinking about it.

I think my focus here even looks sharper with the changes in my shooting menu.

Thanks again!

ottor · May 17, 2009

Nice pics !! Think you've got it!! Beautiful animal, but ... .what crime did he commit??? He's got Leg-Irons on... I used to slap those on some ruffians when I was in the MP's.. :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

Saddlebreds4me · May 17, 2009

ottor said:
Nice pics !! Think you've got it!! Beautiful animal, but ... .what crime did he commit??? He's got Leg-Irons on... I used to slap those on some ruffians when I was in the MP's.. :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

I knew that might come up...LOL - the "leg irons" you are talking about are just leather cuffs that have a piece of surgical tubing which, when the horse trots, the surgical tubing acts like a resistance band and opens up the use of the horse's shoulder - and develops it as well.

Thanks for the compliments!! I'm really excited and can't thank Sw1tchFX enough for the help!

KmH · May 17, 2009

Don't forget that to Auto Focus the camera AF sensors need some contrast. If your subject and the background are both dark there is llittle contrast and the camera will have difficult auto focusing.

Check out this tutorial.

Saddlebreds4me · May 17, 2009

KmH said:
Don't forget that to Auto Focus the camera AF sensors need some contrast. If your subject and the background are both dark there is llittle contrast and the camera will have difficult auto focusing.

Check out this tutorial.

Good point thank you! I'm going to the tutorial now.

This might be a dumb question, but if you don't have a major contrast difference, can you create it?

For example - the grey horse I shot, kind of blends in with the blue background and off white arena walls - is that enough? or would I have been sharper with more of a contrast? It sounds like I would have...although I'm not totally unhappy with what I got for my first time out with the new settings.

KmH · May 17, 2009

Saddlebreds4me said:
Good point thank you! I'm going to the tutorial now.

This might be a dumb question, but if you don't have a major contrast difference, can you create it?

For example - the grey horse I shot, kind of blends in with the blue background and off white arena walls - is that enough? or would I have been sharper with more of a contrast? It sounds like I would have...although I'm not totally unhappy with what I got for my first time out with the new settings.

You can move to have a better background but you can't create it in camera.
A better understanding of how the camera works makes it a more useful tool for you.

Sw1tchFX · May 18, 2009

Your welcome, and no, these settings can stay the same with the 24-70, and you'll have much faster AF with that then the 80-200.

Also, for sharp shots, don't worry about shooting ISO 6400. When printed 8x12, ISO 6400 looks great.

gsgary · May 18, 2009

Do Nikon make an equivalent to Canons STE2 ? because that can be used to autofocus in difficult situations

Gaerek · May 18, 2009

I don't know much about horse shows, but if there is an area where you can reliably be assured that a horse, or whatever, might be, you could always turn on manual focus, then focus for that area, and just wait for something to wander in. It might not work for what you're doing, but I know people who shoot track meets, and things like that who use this technique with great results.

Saddlebreds4me · May 18, 2009

Gaerek said:
I don't know much about horse shows, but if there is an area where you can reliably be assured that a horse, or whatever, might be, you could always turn on manual focus, then focus for that area, and just wait for something to wander in. It might not work for what you're doing, but I know people who shoot track meets, and things like that who use this technique with great results.

That would be tough - and gsgary please chime in here - whether it's eventing like gsgary shoots or show horses, what I shoot - there is the constant motion. I certainly could try it but I'm thinking that would be a tough one. But what the hell? I will try it, I've got nothing to lose - thanks for the suggestion!

Saddlebreds4me · May 18, 2009

Sw1tchFX said:
Your welcome, and no, these settings can stay the same with the 24-70, and you'll have much faster AF with that then the 80-200.

Also, for sharp shots, don't worry about shooting ISO 6400. When printed 8x12, ISO 6400 looks great.

Awesome...speed and noise that I can handle -this is great!