From Constant Lighting to Strobes. (In Home Studio)

[SoulEssenceCo]

Hello!

I wouldn't consider myself a complete newbie to photography but there sure is a whole lot more I need to learn!
I've been a very successful photographer for about 5 1/2 years. Examples of my work: (Some old/ Some new)
[url]https://www.facebook.com/soulessence.photographyy/media_set?set=a.165819370205190.34315.100003313855778&type=3[/URL]






I only have worked with constant westcott box lights. I have four of the regular sized ones & they're cool. They got me this far.
But I know that in order to be able to be more versatile, I must be willing to go further than constant lighting. So I went out and bought a Novatrons 1600 bundle of 4 lights.

I'm shooting in my home currently and my space isn't all that big. It's actually set up in my living room. :mrgreen:
Here are all my lights set up together so you can see what im working with.



Now I'm trying to figure out how to make use of them (this is my VERY first time using strobes)
it seems like the light is extremely bright when I snap. and the results are very boring. I don't get any pleasing results.
I know the umbrellas are supposed to create a soft image but they always look so strong and harsh.

I know I have a lot to learn but what are some things am I missing?
You see my space is pretty limited here, do I even need strobes of this magnitude?

Help!

 

[SoulEssenceCo]

oh & I know my backdrop is embarrassing... its on its last leg.

 

[HitenNainaney]

Could you post up a few pictures of the results that you aren't pleased with, and also the setup that you used to shoot those. (Specifically)

From what i can see, i notice that your softboxes are rather small.

 

[SoulEssenceCo]

Sure! Back in a few.

 

[Derrel]

I'm not that familiar with Novatron's power distribution system, but I 'thought' they had 1- and 2-stop power-reducing flash heads. I have a number of other branded pack-and-head (aka box-and-cable) type studio flashes that use "symmetrical" and also "asymmetrical" flash power distribution. So, for example on Symmetrical at 1600 W-s or full-power level, if four flash heads are connected, EACH one will output 400 Watt-seconds. Which in Novatron, creates plenty of light output; probably MORE than you want at ISO 100 in a smaller shooting area like your dining area, with low ceilings and a white room. (In a warehouse with 40-foot high ceilings, the power would, effectively, be a LOT less!)

If there is a HALF-power setting, you'd be at 800 Watt-seconds total, so with 4 flashes hooked, up it'd be 200 W-s per flash.

If there is a QUARTER-power setting or LOW, and it's 400 Watt-seconds, you'd get 100 W-s per flash with 4 flashes plugged in.

THEN, that is where the 1- and 2-stop reduction heads come into play, to allow you to effectively create WEAKER output.

Here is a power distribution chart for an 800 Watt-second Speedotron power pack, showing how other brands distribute flash power; perhaps the Novatron has a similar chart on the pack, or in its manual? Maybe if you tell us the exact model numbers, we could help you find the right information on the web.

 

[Derrel]

Found this, RE the Novatron 1600VR power pack: Help W/Novatron 1600 Power Pack: Studio and Lighting Technique Forum: Digital Photography Review

Keep in mind, apparently many Novatron flash heads have only 1,000 Watt-second rated flashtubes, so you do NOT want to use that power pack with just one, single flash head plugged in! Use at least two flash heads, so that each one would handle 800 Watt-seconds of power per firing cycle.

This thread also has some info you might find useful: Novatron Light Kit: Studio and Lighting Technique Forum: Digital Photography Review

I suppose it's possible that you might end up rigging up some neutral density film pieces to cut the light output down. Paul C. Buff company's web site offers some 1-,2-,and 3-stop ND filter sheets in pieces large enough to be used with pretty large diameter flash heads.

 

[Don Kondra]

You don't have to use them all at the same time

And you may want to look into lighting ratio's...

Cheers, Don

 

[SoulEssenceCo]

So We played around some more & here's the setup:



Here's one image similar to the images I was referring to before:



I turned off the light that was on the background and got this:



Looks pretty good to me now surprisingly. Does this look expected of strobes?

 

[tirediron]

It's a look, not necessarily a bad one, but what I notice in the image which shows your two shoot-throughs, is that they both seem to be placed at roughly the same distance and angle from centre. This is essentially a recipe for flat light assuming the same power on each head, or boring shadows assuming a 1 or 2 stop difference. The most basic two-light set-up is something along the lines of key about 30 degrees off of lens axis and at a height such that the modifier is aimed just slightly down, and fill more or less on-axis and at least a stop below key. With a such good gear, I would strongly recommend spending the $100 or so on a used flash meter; that will make your life a LOT easier!

 

[sk66]

Look at how much light is going everywhere but where it's pointed in the first image. There's actually more light hitting the walls/ceiling than is hitting the subject. That spill *will* affect your images...