Fx help

thank you to everyone that actually answered my question about this, I'm not good with all these technical terms and names and numbers and stuff I finally watched a vidoe that totally helped to understand the problem and the issue that I was having, along with a user guide video. I guess I'm just gonna have to get an actual fx lens to see what the difference is.

You will be able to see what the difference is when there's a lens on the camera. The entire viewfinder will be what an FX lens will record. Shooting in DX mode, you'll only get what's inside the black rectangle.
 
This thread begs for the all to familiar reply to such situations, Have You Read The Freaking Manual???

Nikon manuals aren't exactly what I would call 'intuitive', especially for the novice. I liken it to explaining all the details of brain surgery for a group of 8-year-scouts for their First Aid patch.
I wonder if the Op asked the sales people at the store or did he just buy it online and try to muddle through himself.
 
You'll only have that issue if you shoot in DX mode.

FX bodies are shipped from the factory to default to DX mode when the camera detects a DX-format lens on it. When it is DX mode, you will see a small double-sided rectangle with 'DX' in it on the monitor and a black rectangle in the viewfinder.

You can over-ride this in the menus and shoot with it in FX mode.

BTW, the 35 DX lens does very well covering the FX sensor, so don't be afraid to shoot it in FX mode. It is a rarity as most DX lenses simply do not cover the FX sensor and you will have a black vignette in the corners of the image.
This thread begs for the all to familiar reply to such situations, Have You Read The Freaking Manual???
This thread begs for the all to familiar reply to such situations, Have You Read The Freaking Manual???
While I appreciate that Nikon does not hire the best writers, and I am a lowly Canon user used to pretty decent manuals. Page 285 thru 291 are I believe pretty well written. I, a Canon understood it. I even learned about CPU, Type G/E and Type D lenses and the pretty illustration on page 291 along with the instructions were pretty good. :allteeth:

Mostly due to the fact that you were probably more than well-versed in knowing what they were talking about in the first place.
thank you to everyone that actually answered my question about this, I'm not good with all these technical terms and names and numbers and stuff I finally watched a vidoe that totally helped to understand the problem and the issue that I was having, along with a user guide video. I guess I'm just gonna have to get an actual fx to see what the difference is.
I misunderstood.
But you don't have a FX lens at all to compare.

Yes you are getting a "cropped" image which is using only a central part of your sensor. And giving you a DX look.

You can pick up a 35mm/2.8 AF-D lens for not much money and get a direct comparison.

This viewfinder shot is from a nikon d600. The middle rectangle is the DX Cropped image in relation to the entire frame which is FX
img_3720a-jpg.71725


from this thread talking about DX/FX but the images have been archived ==> So You Wanna See the Difference Between Full Frame and Cropped Sensors?[/QUOTE

Thank you that was very helpful, I was able to figure out how to use my dx lens and disable the cropping except now I'm getting some vignetting and while it's not that bothersome I fee like I'm not getting a true image until I fiddle with the settings a lot and eventually get it right , I like doing it all munally but I'm getting the hang of it. No at the moment I don't have an actual fx lens to compare it to buy my concer was once I get an actual fx lens will i get an actually bigger image with the same capabilities as I had on the dx camera?
 
Pedro,

I'd recommend you look into a Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 for Nikon. They are pretty reasonably priced and they are an FX lens, so you'll get the full field of view your FX sensor is capable of in the D610.

You can still use your DX lenses on your FX camera body, but when you do the camera will automatically switch to DX mode (assuming you don't disable that feature in the menus) and so you'll be limited to the same field of view you had when using it on your DX camera.

I shoot the 28-75 myself on a D600, really is an outstanding lens.

Thank you, I will look into that
 
Your image will not get any larger (DX v DX mode aside) using an FX lens. You will just have less vignetting than your DX lens displays.
 
This thread begs for the all to familiar reply to such situations, Have You Read The Freaking Manual???

Nikon manuals aren't exactly what I would call 'intuitive', especially for the novice. I liken it to explaining all the details of brain surgery for a group of 8-year-scouts for their First Aid patch.
I wonder if the Op asked the sales people at the store or did he just buy it online and try to muddle through himself.
I love how some people are totally helpful and others are just total photography snobs.
 
This thread begs for the all to familiar reply to such situations, Have You Read The Freaking Manual???

Nikon manuals aren't exactly what I would call 'intuitive', especially for the novice. I liken it to explaining all the details of brain surgery for a group of 8-year-scouts for their First Aid patch.
I wonder if the Op asked the sales people at the store or did he just buy it online and try to muddle through himself.
I love how some people are totally helpful and others are just total photography snobs.
You did stick a DX lens on a FX body after all
 
Bet you feel good about how smart you are.
 
You'll only have that issue if you shoot in DX mode.

FX bodies are shipped from the factory to default to DX mode when the camera detects a DX-format lens on it. When it is DX mode, you will see a small double-sided rectangle with 'DX' in it on the monitor and a black rectangle in the viewfinder.

You can over-ride this in the menus and shoot with it in FX mode.

BTW, the 35 DX lens does very well covering the FX sensor, so don't be afraid to shoot it in FX mode. It is a rarity as most DX lenses simply do not cover the FX sensor and you will have a black vignette in the corners of the image.
This thread begs for the all to familiar reply to such situations, Have You Read The Freaking Manual???
This thread begs for the all to familiar reply to such situations, Have You Read The Freaking Manual???
While I appreciate that Nikon does not hire the best writers, and I am a lowly Canon user used to pretty decent manuals. Page 285 thru 291 are I believe pretty well written. I, a Canon understood it. I even learned about CPU, Type G/E and Type D lenses and the pretty illustration on page 291 along with the instructions were pretty good. :allteeth:

Mostly due to the fact that you were probably more than well-versed in knowing what they were talking about in the first place.
thank you to everyone that actually answered my question about this, I'm not good with all these technical terms and names and numbers and stuff I finally watched a vidoe that totally helped to understand the problem and the issue that I was having, along with a user guide video. I guess I'm just gonna have to get an actual fx to see what the difference is.
I misunderstood.
But you don't have a FX lens at all to compare.

Yes you are getting a "cropped" image which is using only a central part of your sensor. And giving you a DX look.

You can pick up a 35mm/2.8 AF-D lens for not much money and get a direct comparison.

This viewfinder shot is from a nikon d600. The middle rectangle is the DX Cropped image in relation to the entire frame which is FX
img_3720a-jpg.71725


from this thread talking about DX/FX but the images have been archived ==> So You Wanna See the Difference Between Full Frame and Cropped Sensors?

Thank you that was very helpful! I don't actually have an fx lens at the moment to compare it to, I tried shooting in fx mode and while it works fine I get some vignetting and I feel like I'm not really getting a true image, they come out very harsh and super contrasty. Basically my mail concern was once I get an actual fx will it perform as well on the fx camera as it did on the dx. Like will my image be bigger than the cropped image without the vignetting?
 
Thank you that was very helpful! I don't actually have an fx lens at the moment to compare it to, I tried shooting in fx mode and while it works fine I get some vignetting and I feel like I'm not really getting a true image, they come out very harsh and super contrasty. Basically my mail concern was once I get an actual fx will it perform as well on the fx camera as it did on the dx. Like will my image be bigger than the cropped image without the vignetting?

Lighting has far more to do with contrast than the lens (unless the lens is very poorly designed and has such low quality it's transmission is dismal). And contrast can be corrected in post.
 
Thank you that was very helpful! I don't actually have an fx lens at the moment to compare it to, I tried shooting in fx mode and while it works fine I get some vignetting and I feel like I'm not really getting a true image, they come out very harsh and super contrasty. Basically my mail concern was once I get an actual fx will it perform as well on the fx camera as it did on the dx. Like will my image be bigger than the cropped image without the vignetting?

If you're shooting in JPeg that would be your next problem. If you want to control how your images look, shoot in RAW and edit on your computer.
 

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