Gear for wildlife photography

[coastalconn]

It's true that shooting wildlife from a tripod is damned near impossible (unless it's a sleeping critter). But once your glass arrives, practice shooting with it at 500mm. What you'll discover is that just the mere act of breathing lightly in and out will create tremendous blur of small objects like birds on a branch (let alone those in flight). All of those superb photos you see of birds where the feathers are sharply defined and in-focus...you achieve those from a very stable lens. You need to look for ways to stabilize your lens when you shoot. Things like...resting it on a car, a fence, a tree branch, putting it on a bean bag, setting it on a stone and then triggering the shutter wirelessly...those are all options.

As for how to carry it, there are plenty of sling options (I have a black rapid) out there. For backpacks (especially with big or long lens), I suggest you get a regular backpack and then put an insert in to it. You can usually configure the insert to fit your needs. And for serious wildlife photography, you're going to want to have your camera equipment in that backpack plus...lunch...a wind breaker or poncho for when it starts to rain...maybe some toilet paper and some wipes...a water bottle or two. So using a regular day pack with an insert is what I use when my holster or messenger bag aren't big enough.

I really disagree with you, myself and others have tons of extremely sharp images and may of us shoot handheld.. Guess it depends on how you shoot. For me I am very mobile and really dislike shooting from a tripod. Modern Cameras are good enough that you really don't need to shoot at base ISO so there is plenty of room to use the shutter speed you need...

 

[DGMPhotography]

It's true that shooting wildlife from a tripod is damned near impossible (unless it's a sleeping critter). But once your glass arrives, practice shooting with it at 500mm. What you'll discover is that just the mere act of breathing lightly in and out will create tremendous blur of small objects like birds on a branch (let alone those in flight). All of those superb photos you see of birds where the feathers are sharply defined and in-focus...you achieve those from a very stable lens. You need to look for ways to stabilize your lens when you shoot. Things like...resting it on a car, a fence, a tree branch, putting it on a bean bag, setting it on a stone and then triggering the shutter wirelessly...those are all options.

As for how to carry it, there are plenty of sling options (I have a black rapid) out there. For backpacks (especially with big or long lens), I suggest you get a regular backpack and then put an insert in to it. You can usually configure the insert to fit your needs. And for serious wildlife photography, you're going to want to have your camera equipment in that backpack plus...lunch...a wind breaker or poncho for when it starts to rain...maybe some toilet paper and some wipes...a water bottle or two. So using a regular day pack with an insert is what I use when my holster or messenger bag aren't big enough.

I really disagree with you, myself and others have tons of extremely sharp images and may of us shoot handheld.. Guess it depends on how you shoot. For me I am very mobile and really dislike shooting from a tripod. Modern Cameras are good enough that you really don't need to shoot at base ISO so there is plenty of room to use the shutter speed you need...

That's what I was thinking lol..... I don't think breathing would cause any issue if you're at 1/1000 of a second. It kind of becomes irrelevant.

 

[Overread]

A few thoughts:

1) Carrying stuff gets a little personal and often people only try a few things until one works and then stick with it; so don't take any one source as gospel. Also remember that different methods favour different shooting conditions depending on your situation. A few considerations:

a) Backpack - whilst some backpacks have "fast access" slots the average wildlife lens won't fit into them for the fast access slot (at least once you leave the cheaper 70-300mm type lenses). Further heavier lenses do best in bags which have two straps and a padded waist band to help distribute weight properly.
The bonus is more weight carrying; lower fatigue; leaves your hands free.
The downside is speed of access as getting the camera out will take some time no matter the bag type.
Backpacks are thus ideal for travelling to a site to shoot (eg by train) or when hiking or otherwise walking longer distances (say from a carpark to a hide location).

b) Shoulder Strap. Eg the Black Rapid.
Offers an easy way to let the camera hang at rest at your hip without putting strain on your wrist/hand. Your shoulder takes the weight whilst your hand steadies it. It also works well as it means that the camera isn't bouncing off your chest (which can get really annoying with heavier DSLRs) as it would with a neck-strap. Shoulders are also tougher than necks; they'll take far more weight without causing injury.
Downside is that whilst the camera is out of the way you still really need one hand to hold it steady when walking. Esp if walking over uneven terrain. As a result its good for steady paths, but if you're hiking over rough terrain you might find it a problem if you need both hands free or have to clamber over things often.

c) Camera-Vest. Less popular these days with hobbyists it seems (at least most of the online ones) as they are oft seen as a bit "geeky". However a good vest can offer a nice compromise between pockets and a camera bag. Most vests are aimed at lighter gear, however check out The Vest Guy who has some more custom setups for heavier gear and longer lenses (and can do custom work too).
Again if you can get the camera out of the way of your hands that's easier hiking. Furthermore a vest can spread the weight around you and thus get away from having a big bulky bag on your back.

2) Shutterspeeds and hand holding. This varies a lot person to person and is more evident at longer focal lengths and with heavier lenses.
In short different people will have different levels of fitness; couple that to longer focal lengths and heavier lenses and you can quickly get a big spread of variations in how slow people can handhold; this is before we even touch on the addition of any anti-shake systems.

In short I would say put your ISO higher and start at faster shutter speeds well over 1/1000sec. Then steadily work your way down - remember once you're at around 1/500sec you're starting to get into territory where motion will cause blur from the subject if its moving around. Practice and use any support you can - leaning on a tree; crouching; beanbags; monopods; tripods etc.... Whatever you are shooting try to find some support and use a good posture and shooting stance to best minimise any shake.

Also remember fatigue. Start of the day when you're fresh and rested its not as much an issue. However a long hike; heavy gear; a long day; lack of proper food/water and you can quickly fatigue. That will instantly affect your shooting, both in how you approach it (get tired and you get lazy) and in your handholding speeds. You will find as you get more worn out you'll want faster shutter speeds.

3) Tripods. Some hate them; some love them. Again depends on the situation. If you're shooting from a hide or other static or mostly static location for a long period of time then a tripod is ideal. It lets you keep fresh and avoid fatigue as the tripod takes the weight for you and does all the straining.
Monopods are often an ideal compromise; giving you something light enough to handhold and shoot with without deploying for fast shots; whilst also letting you have something light and easy to use that can take the weight - again helping to reduce your fatigue.





Personally I use a variety of approaches depending on the situation and would always advocate understanding your situation and what you want to shoot when you head out. Then use that to define what gear will best suit you. Chances are you'll end up owning a selection of different bits of gear for different situations; especially as and when you start to shoot in different locations.

Also sometimes simpler is easier. If you're going to be all day at a reserve or otherwise smaller site you might just want a shoulder strap and camera; a few items in your pocket like memory cards and away you go.