Going Crazy Syncing Strobes

cupcake09

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Equipment:
flashpoint 300 w strobes x2
Sony A230

I'm new to artificial lighting. Having used natural light I assumed it was normal to shoot at 1/100 and 400 ISO.

However, people on this site and others have said my photos only look like they're being lit by the on camera flash. I suspect this has always been the case.

I know they are working properly as I "see" them and hear the beep. I don't have any preflash on, Sony doesn't take the cord that came with the lights.

I am upset and frustrated to say the least. What are my other options (wireless or wired okay) to trigger and hopefully have them show up in my pictures.

Thanks for reading! :)
 
Typical studio settings are more like 1/200, f8, ISO 100. Any radio trigger (Yongnuo, Cactus, Pocket Wizard) should be fine, but you will need the Sony-specific model or a Sony-rest of the world hotshoe adapter. I assume you're using your pop-up flash to trigger the Flashpoints? If so, and it's out of sync, then double-check your pop-up flash settings, as 99.9999% of the time this happens, it's a result of TTL pre-flash.
 
Thanks TiredIron the settings are very helpful. I can only go up to 1/160 when using the pop up flash however.
Looking into those brands now thank you!!
 
One of the best-made options is the Nikon AS-15, the "Accessory Shoe", model 15. It's like $19. Mine is 15 years old, works great. It slides into any standard hotshoe...oh WAIT....SOny has that nifty proprietary hotshoe...

One of these, or better, will allow the use of the PC cord from the adapter, to one of the lights; turn the optical slave trigger on the second monolight to ON, and you're good to go with a simple "wired" triggering system.

HD N3 Flash Hotshoe Adapter for Sony Alpha A200 A230 A900 Minolta Dynax 7D 5D A2 | eBay
 
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Equipment:
flashpoint 300 w strobes x2
Sony A230

I'm new to artificial lighting. Having used natural light I assumed it was normal to shoot at 1/100 and 400 ISO.

However, people on this site and others have said my photos only look like they're being lit by the on camera flash. I suspect this has always been the case.

I know they are working properly as I "see" them and hear the beep. I don't have any preflash on, Sony doesn't take the cord that came with the lights.

I am upset and frustrated to say the least. What are my other options (wireless or wired okay) to trigger and hopefully have them show up in my pictures.

Thanks for reading! :)



I think you are saying that you are using the camera internal flash to trigger the strobes, and it appears the strobes are not contributing light into your picture.

That would be expected if your camera flash is in automatic TTL mode. There is a preflash, which will trigger your remotes too early, before shutter opens.

Your camera flash has to be (can only be) in Manual flash mode. Verify your camera flash is in Manual flash mode. You did not say those words (and you are getting the wrong result). The camera has a menu to select TTL or Manual mode. Select Manual flash mode in the camera. If you don't remember doing that, that is the problem. If your camera flash still works well (meaning with automatic flash exposure) when not using the strobes, it is NOT in Manual flash mode.

The Manual camera flash can be at a quite low power level, probably set to its lowest Manual power level, to still trigger the remotes properly, without it affecting your picture lighting much, if any. Then (at that low level), you should see the expected lighting from the remote flashes, but if they are turned off for a test, you see a very dark picture from only the camera flash.

The hot shoe PC sync cord adapter would be a better solution, to keep the camera flash turned off.
 
Last edited:
I use a Yongnuo wireless. The transmitter slides into the hot shoe. I use a Speed-O-Tron 2403cx and it works fine. The units were so cheap I ordered two to make sure I got one that worked. I have been using the first one over a year and have not had a problem. I believe the Pocket Wizard it the best unit and I am planning on buying one; however, I will stick with this as long as I have two working. I shoot tethered so I have enough wire on the floor with the cables to my strobes and the USB to my computer. I hope to eliminate the USB cable with a network device at some point.

I do product photography. My camera is moved around a lit on a camera stand. Wires get in the way.

Good luck.

Roger
 
Your setup isn't clear but I'm assuming you're using a built-in flash. If you haven't changed the mode of the flash, it's in TTL and the preflash will trigger the strobes before the exposure begins. To turn the preflash off, you would have to go to manual or "--" on Nikon (or Sony equivalent). The fact that on-camera flash is illuminating the subject tells me it's in manual or TTL; if it were set to trigger only, it wouldn't illuminate the subject.

Nothing about shutter speed or ISO would prevent the flashes from firing. You must also make sure the Flashpoints can see the light from the triggering flash. I can't think of anything other than TTL that would cause the flashes to fire and not record. If they're firing during the exposure, they will record as the flash registers on the exposure at the speed of light, regardless of what the shutter speed is. Sync speed can't affect whether it registers; it can affect only how much of the frame is illuminated.
 
When I used my internal flash to trigger a slave I set it on manual at the lowest power setting and it worked great. Everything mentioned above is correct concerning pre-flash, redeye reduction etc. On other words, turn all the automatic and extra stuff off.

Roger
 
You need some synchronicity among your lights. Evaluate your setup and figure out what's easier, wired or wireless.
 
One of these, or better, will allow the use of the PC cord from the adapter, to one of the lights; turn the optical slave trigger on the second monolight to ON, and you're good to go with a simple "wired" triggering system.
^^^^^THIS



Ever since I learned about wired, my studio shots have been MUCH easier to execute.
 

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