Group Photo?

NicoleDaly

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I have a group of 12 people to photograph. They want a tight shot & to be able to blow up the photo for print.
I use a my 50mm 1.8 for most of my portrait photography, but now I'm not sure if that is going to work well with this group. I do have a standard 18-55mm 2.4 lens too.
Can someone tell me I will be ok with the 50? Or should I look into renting a different lens? Thank you
 
The only reason you couldn't use your 50mm, is if you are in a confined space and you couldn't back up far enough to fit the group into the frame.

Just make sure that you use an aperture small enough to give you sufficient DOF to keep all the people in focus.
 
Over the 25 years I did portrait photography, I hardly ever used a 50 mm lens.

How will the 12 people be arranged for the shot? All in a single line? 3 rows of 4, or some other stacked combination?
 
The only reason you couldn't use your 50mm, is if you are in a confined space and you couldn't back up far enough to fit the group into the frame.

Just make sure that you use an aperture small enough to give you sufficient DOF to keep all the people in focus.


This pretty much sums up all you need. If it's in a small confined area you may need to look at other lenses but, if it's outdoor or in a large room/hall then there won't be any issue. Shoot a series of shots advancing the aperture to give longer exposure until you achieve the shot wanted.
 
I took a picture of 9 persons in line with the 50mm on a crop sensor and I had to step back considerable. I didn't like the perspective.
I'll use the 18-55 at 35mm if I was you, at f8 it should be just fine.
 
I could shoot a group of 20 from a not too far away, with a 50mm on a crop sensor. Just depends on how comfortable you are with learning new techniques, and your willingness to give it a try. You'd also be able to blow the shot up to billboard size with amazing resolution (if done right).

I'll get to the point- You'll want to manually expose for the shot, have your group stand as still as possible (now statues just no big movements) while you pan over them. Then start at one end and start snapping shots off with their faces dead center of the frame, then come back through overlapping with their waist in the center. Next another pass with the ground, and one of the area above them (ensuring you always overlap a bit). Then simply photomerge them in CS6 for a gigantic portrait (probably 40MB). Crop the edges and do your normal PP.

Look at this guys stuff
brenizer method » Ryan Brenizer — NYC Wedding Photographer. Problem solver, storyteller. » page 2
 
I could shoot a group of 20 from a not too far away, with a 50mm on a crop sensor. Just depends on how comfortable you are with learning new techniques, and your willingness to give it a try. You'd also be able to blow the shot up to billboard size with amazing resolution (if done right).

I'll get to the point- You'll want to manually expose for the shot, have your group stand as still as possible (now statues just no big movements) while you pan over them. Then start at one end and start snapping shots off with their faces dead center of the frame, then come back through overlapping with their waist in the center. Next another pass with the ground, and one of the area above them (ensuring you always overlap a bit). Then simply photomerge them in CS6 for a gigantic portrait (probably 40MB). Crop the edges and do your normal PP.

Look at this guys stuff
brenizer method » Ryan Brenizer — NYC Wedding Photographer. Problem solver, storyteller. » page 2

Very interesting, but it looks surreal.
 
It's just a normal shot with a depth of field that's unique.When done well for a portrait (W/ something like 85mm f/1.4), it creates shots with dof that cannot be replicated with any lens.I find it to be impractical for every shot of a shoot, but a a few of them are no sweat and sure to be favorites.
 

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