Hanging a show on a budget. Tips on how to save.

[Blue Cube Imaging]

For many of us hanging a "gallery" show is an exciting prospect.

We either contact a local venue or better yet they contact us in regards to hanging some work. Whether it is your first time or you are a seasoned member of the show scene there are a few things you can do to save on expenses.

Here are some tips:

Planning

The key to saving money is planning and leaving yourself plenty of time to prepare and produce the finished products you will be hanging.

All too often I have people contact me days before an opening needing their prints in a rush. While I don't charge rush fees for my services (I also cannot guarantee them do to my limited lab schedule) many labs do, often a 100 - 200% mark-up over their standard prices, this plus the added expense of expedited shipping.

Then there are rush fees for matting, framing, etc.

Waiting too long can easily quadrouple the cost of preparing a show.

Leave yourself 4 -6 weeks if possible.

Know your venue

Having an idea of the space you'll be working with will help you select the right products to hang.

Are you preparing for a show you have not yet arranged or do you already have a place and date set?

A lobby in a small coffee shop may not accomodate those 16x20" prints you would like to put up, and a bunch of 5x7" images could be swallowed up a wall in an actual gallery.

"Standard" sizes are your friend

Standard sized prints and frames cost far less than custom sizes.

The most common sizes for both prints and frames are 8 x 10", 11 x 14" and 16 x 20". Because of these sizes are manufactured in bulk they cost far less than custom.

If you are on a budget, sticking to these sizes will save you a bundle.

"My images don't fit those sizes!". Fine, create a standard size canvas in Photoshop and drop your image onto it. A 16 x 20" white canvas can accomodate image sizes from 3 x 4" up to 11 x 14" and look very elegant. In the same vane a 3:2 aspect ratio 6 x 9" or 8 x 12" image can be dropped onto an 11 x 14" will save you the added expense of buying 8 x 12", 12 x 18" or 16 x 24" frames.

Uniform print/canvas sizes save $$$

Prints for the most part are cheap. Frames, mats and finishing service are much more expensive.

You will have more leverage in negotiating frame and mat prices.

For example if you tell your framer you'll be needing 10 - 16 x 20" frames and 10 mats with an outside size of 16 x 20" and a opening of 10.5 x 13.5" he/she should be able to offer you a better price.

Random tips on how to save

Stock up on frames and mats when they are on sale.

Order all of your prints at one time to save on shipping.

Skip mats and print smaller images on larger canvases. For example a 11 x 14 printed on a 16 x 20 sheet of paper is $9.99 (my price) in comparison an 11 x 14" print with a 16 x 20" mat is approximately $16 -20 ($4.00 for the print and $12 - 16 for the mat). If using this option try to get some spacers for your frames so the print isn't touching the glass.

Probably the best bargain in terms of prints and frames is 11 x 14". Once you get to that 16 x 20" size costs triple.

Of course this is by no means the definitive list of "how to hang a show" but I hope some of you will find it helpful.

If anyone has any other tips it would be greatly appreciated if you would post them here also.

 

[Brick]

Very useful, thank you! I actually never come to this particular forum since I'm just a hobbyist but today I came for advice on just this topic. I sent some images to a local coffee shop and they asked me to hang some pictures so this will be my first time and I'm trying to do it on the super-cheap since they asked me to hang 20-25 pictures.

Do you (or anyone else) have any recommendations on places to get cheap frames? I've seen a few places online that offer frame/mat/glass combos for reasonable prices but I'm a bit worried about the quality. I'm not looking for top-notch but I don't want them falling apart. Hobby Lobby is the only place around me that sells frames (other than framing shops, and I'm not willing to spend that much since I'm not a pro) but I'd be willing to drive a few hours if need be.

Also, I have no idea what to use as a back for the frame. For the pictures I've framed on my walls I've used scrap cardboard for smaller ones and foam core for larger ones, what do most people use?

 

[KmH]

Are they going to hang in the coffee shop with expectations of selling them? Are they standard print sizes?

Metal frames are generally less expensive than wood frames, and try to negotiate a bulk purchase price from the vendor.

 

[c.cloudwalker]

Skip mats and print smaller images on larger canvases. For example a 11 x 14 printed on a 16 x 20 sheet of paper is $9.99 (my price) in comparison an 11 x 14" print with a 16 x 20" mat is approximately $16 -20 ($4.00 for the print and $12 - 16 for the mat).

I don't get that part at all. A mat IS a spacer and an absolute must with art that is framed behind glass.


I don't have any serious problems with the tips you give but there are other ways to look at this. One is to do the mat cutting and framing yourself. I've never used anything but aluminum section frames for shows in commercial galleries and never had a complaint from a gallery because that was what most other photogs used. If the buyer wants a better looking frame (as they should) they can get another one. Museum type galleries are another story but not one most members here need to worry about right now.

I've also cut my own mats from large sheets because it is not that hard. Plus, you can reuse the cut out when framing a smaller print. More savings. I'm not sure about stocking up on mats either because I've never seen pre-cut mats that were made of acid free material and that is a must.

Stocking up on frames is not that much of a necessity with the section types one. Just open the ones you have, change the mat/photo combo, done for the new show. If you sell one photo, replace that one frame.

Now, I did stock up on older, nice looking frames that I'd get at auctions for a couple $ apiece and would use when showing just a few pieces in an unconventional space. I never worried much about their size since, by cutting my own mats, I could make one to fit any frame.

Personally, I just can't cut glass so I got it cut to size but tbh I never saw much of a saving if I were to do it myself.

"Are you preparing for a show you have not yet arranged..." Why would anyone do that? I only prepare a show when I have a show. But the space is not going to influence the size of the prints anyway. The size of the print is dictated by what I want to convey through a particular image. The space will influence which images I pick so that, as you said, I don't end up with a huge image in a space too small for it.


For anyone interested, this is what I cut mats with:

I started with this guy Handheld Mat Cutters: Deluxe Pull Style
which I still use when framing just a picture or two (up to 16x20 mat window) and don't feel like bringing out the big guy.
Board Mounted Mat Cutter: Framer's Edge
which I got later when I started framing larger pieces.

Good thread!

 

[c.cloudwalker]

Do you (or anyone else) have any recommendations on places to get cheap frames?

The aluminum section frames I'm talking about can be found at most craft stores.

I (and everyone I know) use foam core for backing.

 

[chito beach]

Do you (or anyone else) have any recommendations on places to get cheap frames?

The aluminum section frames I'm talking about can be found at most craft stores.

I (and everyone I know) use foam core for backing.

I dont use foam core it is not usually archival quality papers and will damage your prints. I usually use quality mat board seconds for backing. or a layer of archival paper between

 

[Blue Cube Imaging]

Skip mats and print smaller images on larger canvases. For example a 11 x 14 printed on a 16 x 20 sheet of paper is $9.99 (my price) in comparison an 11 x 14" print with a 16 x 20" mat is approximately $16 -20 ($4.00 for the print and $12 - 16 for the mat).

I don't get that part at all. A mat IS a spacer and an absolute must with art that is framed behind glass.

This part is for the serious budget oriented, those that will for example be using clip frames to display their work. Basically printing with a large border and using that as a "mat". Of course true mats and spacer are the preferred method but they do add expense.

Thank you for the input and your excellent tips.

 

[c.cloudwalker]

Do you (or anyone else) have any recommendations on places to get cheap frames?

The aluminum section frames I'm talking about can be found at most craft stores.

I (and everyone I know) use foam core for backing.

I dont use foam core it is not usually archival quality papers and will damage your prints. I usually use quality mat board seconds for backing. or a layer of archival paper between

Oh, absolutely. It is such a given to me that a mat includes two pieces (front and back) hinged with acid free tape (as is used to attach the print to the mat. 2 small pieces at the top of a small print) that I didn't think of explaining that but, you are correct.

 

[chito beach]

Skip mats and print smaller images on larger canvases. For example a 11 x 14 printed on a 16 x 20 sheet of paper is $9.99 (my price) in comparison an 11 x 14" print with a 16 x 20" mat is approximately $16 -20 ($4.00 for the print and $12 - 16 for the mat).

I don't get that part at all. A mat IS a spacer and an absolute must with art that is framed behind glass.

This part is for the serious budget oriented, those that will for example be using clip frames to display their work. Basically printing with a large border and using that as a "mat". Of course true mats and spacer are the preferred method but they do add expense.

Thank you for the input and your excellent tips.

I think what he was getting at is that quality prints will stick to the glass unless it is propped away from it. If you have glass you NEED a mat to protect the print

 

[c.cloudwalker]

This part is for the serious budget oriented, those that will for example be using clip frames to display their work.

OMG, clip frames are an assault on common sense, lol. They should be banned from galleries :lmao:

 

[Blue Cube Imaging]

Do you (or anyone else) have any recommendations on places to get cheap frames?

The aluminum section frames I'm talking about can be found at most craft stores.

I (and everyone I know) use foam core for backing.

I dont use foam core it is not usually archival quality papers and will damage your prints. I usually use quality mat board seconds for backing. or a layer of archival paper between

Excellent advice, mat board seconds or blanks are very economical to use as backing boards.

There are acid free foam boards, some are buffered and some are actually acid free. I have been using Elmers acid free for mounting.

Elmer's Bright White Foam Board Enhances Artwork and Photographs

Bright White Acid-Free Foam Board, 20"x30"-2pk

Use: Craft, Office, School & Science Fair
Type: Foam Sheets
Presentation Area: Single Sheet
Features: Acid Free
Color: White
Thickness: 3/16"
Dimensions: 20"x30"
Product Description:

Provides protection from deterioration over the years due to humidity and atmosperic pollutants. Bright white finish dramatically enhances colors of any artwork. Perfect for mounting posters and photographs!

 

[Blue Cube Imaging]

This part is for the serious budget oriented, those that will for example be using clip frames to display their work.

OMG, clip frames are an assault on common sense, lol. They should be banned from galleries :lmao:

You are absolutely correct, but I still have far too many requests for them to discontinue them. Probably sell 80 - 100 month for starter "shows". I always recommend stepping up to the Neilsen type frames, only a few do.

Also, you have to take into account that by galleries, I am including coffee shops and restaurants where the frames and in many cases the works are going to be damaged.

 

[Brick]

Are they going to hang in the coffee shop with expectations of selling them? Are they standard print sizes?

Metal frames are generally less expensive than wood frames, and try to negotiate a bulk purchase price from the vendor.

Well I had originally just wanted to have my shots on display and figured that if they let me hang some pictures they'd put me in the small room (it's a fairly large coffee shop usually hosting 4-5 artists at a time, this time it will only be 3) so I'd frame around 5 pictures and if none sold it wouldn't be a huge expense. Now that I'm going to be framing 20-25 it'd be nice to sell a few to offset a bit of the cost, although I'm budgeting on not selling a darn thing :mrgreen:

Thanks for the tip on frame material!

The aluminum section frames I'm talking about can be found at most craft stores.

I (and everyone I know) use foam core for backing.

I dont use foam core it is not usually archival quality papers and will damage your prints. I usually use quality mat board seconds for backing. or a layer of archival paper between

Oh, absolutely. It is such a given to me that a mat includes two pieces (front and back) hinged with acid free tape (as is used to attach the print to the mat. 2 small pieces at the top of a small print) that I didn't think of explaining that but, you are correct.

Good to know! Is this standard thickness mat? For some reason I pictured that not being sturdy enough.

 

[c.cloudwalker]

I use the same ply back and front but I couldn't tell you what that is. It's been so long since I've cut mats for a whole show that I'm still using boards I bought about 10 years ago and I don't remember what ply they are.

 

[c.cloudwalker]

There are acid free foam boards, some are buffered and some are actually acid free. I have been using Elmers acid free for mounting.

I thought there was but wasn't sure enough to say it. See my previous post for how long since I last bought materials.

But are you saying you mount prints directly to the foam core boards? I guess if they're acid free, they're acid free. For me, with section frames, I found that a front/back mat combo and foam core behind that fit the frame's depth perfectly with just enough space for the springs.