HELP, I FUBARED! EMERGENCY!

Good to hear!

Just a friendly bit of advice.. Make a pre-assignment checklist- everything from supplies to reseting your camera- and go over it before every shoot.

It'll save you a ton of grief. A Metric ton at that. ;)


Thanks man, good call.
 
They looked very nice. I'm glad for the recovery!!:thumbup:

This is one of those things I prefer about digital.
Sometimes I think my head is just there to keep my ears from slamming together!!!:lol:

The instant gratification has become a good tool for me.
 
Hm. Why don't you use digital?


Digital would have been even worse if he was 5 stops over.

Film according to my instructor is still useable after 4-5 stops of over or under exposure depending on certain factors. Digital is similar to slide photography in that it's really strict on what it will make a decnet picture out of. Your comment did not help much.


To the OP. Just get them developed. My instructor owns a minilab, and he says that they fix stuff like that all the time and pictures turn out fine a lot of the time.

EDIT: Just saw that you fixed them up...and they did turn out really well. Film had a huge latitude.
 
...
Film according to my instructor is still useable after 4-5 stops of over or under exposure depending on certain factors...

Referring to colour negative film, I agree about the overexposure latitude (see my post above), but not the underexposure latitude - if you apply the same criteria for 'usability' then colour negative film will always have a lot more overexposure latitude than underexposure latitude. Apart from anything else, the amount of latitude will depend on what 'usable' and 'latitude' mean to you. There is a standard definition for quantifying and comparing 'latitude', but where would we be if everyone used standard definitions? If your definition of 'latitude' is based on a grainy rendition of the highlights with few or no midtones, then you might be able to stretch to four or five stops of underexposure.

The ISO standard for the speed of colour negative film is based on having one stop of underexposure latitude (according to their definition of latitude), and that is borne out by practical experience. It might be a little more, it might be a little less because of the variety of factors that affect it, but it is very unlikely to be much over two stops even with diffuse lighting and a narrow subject brightness range.

In practice the graininess of colour negative film increases with less exposure - dramatically so with some films. If you underexpose you will get more graininess. The opposite is true - if you give more exposure you will get less graininess. This is a useful feature. As you expose even more you will begin to lose some definition - ie the image will look a little softer, and noticeably smoother. This is another feature that you can use to your advantage in some situations.

Scanning the film and post-processing digitally makes it easier to get good results from greatly overexposed colour negative film than it would be from optically (wet) printed film. This is because of what is known as colour crossover - which is correctable digitally, but very difficult to correct with purely optical/wet printing.

By the way, the exposure-graininess relationship I mentioned above holds for colour negative and dye-image B&W film only. It is usually the other way round for silver-image B&W film: the more exposure the greater the graininess.

Best,
Helen
 
Hm. Why don't you use digital?

Because with digital sensor dynamic limits your chances to pull/push are even smaller than with film.
If the light meter on your digital is damaged, then I would say, no chance to rescue the work, mate.
 
They look like they came out all right!

I am a digital film photographer but now that my Pixmantec Rawshooters trial has ended (annoyingly enough) I can only shoot in JPEG, so I may go back to my film camera for now.

David
 
I do this every time. I can't tell you how many times I've shot important pics at 1600 ISO when it was bright outside. Always check your camera before shooting. Glad to hear the pictures turned out fotoflo.

I've done this soooo much since I've bought a digital camera *lol*
I now check the settings before I leave the house!
 
They look like they came out all right!

I am a digital film photographer but now that my Pixmantec Rawshooters trial has ended (annoyingly enough) I can only shoot in JPEG, so I may go back to my film camera for now.

David


Were you using Rawshooter Premium? You can still download Rawshooter Essentials 2006 in Download.com, it's free and it will never expire.
 
Were you using Rawshooter Premium? You can still download Rawshooter Essentials 2006 in Download.com, it's free and it will never expire.

Wow, thanks for that, I'll look into this.

Getting a bit annoyed about 'Pixmantec RawShooter' putting it's product name all over my processed files.

Thanks :)
 

Most reactions

New Topics

Back
Top