Help with motion shots::::

iHTCHBK

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Here is my first attempt:
022-1-1.jpg


I am using a Canon powershot sd1000 and tripod.In the picture here I used my macro mode on manual and just focused in on the wall/tree basically the background elements.I was told to have him stand where I plan to snap the picture and focus on him then take the picture when he comes through.Since then I have tried that idea on other motion pictures and it has yet to work..I really would enjoy some pointers or anything to help me progress at a moving shot.

I have a kids and pet's option on my menu screen it is for moving objects it says in my book but I am not sure if it will allow me to use all my options on that setting?.I do plan to get alot more pictures of skating and bmx soon and before I go I'd like some idea's on how to improve w/what I have.

Thanks.
 
The shutter speed is simply not fast enough to stop motion. I don't know much about the sd1000, but it may be that there's not a setting to do it. You might have to trick it into doing what you want. If it's possible, you could try increasing the ISO. It probably doesn't have a manual aperture or shutter setting. The next best bet would probably be to actually bring more light in. Possibly a spot light?
 
Actually, take a look at the camera's manual. Apparently, the sd1000 does have a manual shooting mode. for these pictures, with a little research, you should be able to set things yourself.
 
Actually, take a look at the camera's manual. Apparently, the sd1000 does have a manual shooting mode. for these pictures, with a little research, you should be able to set things yourself.

I just d/l this CHDK ordeal I was told about yesterday it has the following options plus many more:


  • Save images in RAW format
  • Ability to run "Scripts" to automate the camera
  • Live histogram (RGB, blended, luminance and for each RGB channel)
  • Zebra mode (blinking highlights and shadows to show over/under exposed areas)
  • An "always on" full range Battery indicator
  • Ability to turn off automatic dark-frame subtraction
  • a higher compression movie mode, and double the maximum video file size
  • exposure times as long as 65 seconds
  • exposure times as little as 1/10,000 of a second
  • ability to use the USB port for a remote trigger input
It this says this:

"Several developers have extended the basic features of CHDK to add additional major functions. You'll find these extended features in "special builds". There are several "Motion Detection" versions available that allow scripts to detect when motion (or any change in light intensity) occurs in one or more predefined regions of the images (the script can then take a photograph, a video, start a timer, etc) and there are some *very* cool applications based on this implementation."


Would any of that help capture better motion pictures?.
 
Maybe, but it also sounds more complicated than it needs to be.

Basically, all you need to do is get the shutter speed to about 1/800th or so. Since the camera is, by default, equipped with manual functions, that's going to be a matter of just reducing the aperture and/or boosting the ISO until the the image can still expose correctly at 1/800th.
 
Maybe, but it also sounds more complicated than it needs to be.

Basically, all you need to do is get the shutter speed to about 1/800th or so. Since the camera is, by default, equipped with manual functions, that's going to be a matter of just reducing the aperture and/or boosting the ISO until the the image can still expose correctly at 1/800th.

Well over 400ISO on my camera the picture quality starts to downfall.Im using a point and shoot I mean maybe on a bright sunny day I can get away w/something but inside it is impossible I've tried.and unless I use a flash they turn out blurry no matter my settings..any help now ? or am I stuck until I move up in the camera's.
 
Well, according to the exif data, the image was shot with an aperture of f/8. According to the manual, you should be able to bring your aperture much, much lower than that. I think it said f/2.8 (although that sounds too low). If you can bring the aperture down to even just f/4, you'll be able to speed that shutter up significantly.
 
Well, according to the exif data, the image was shot with an aperture of f/8. According to the manual, you should be able to bring your aperture much, much lower than that. I think it said f/2.8 (although that sounds too low). If you can bring the aperture down to even just f/4, you'll be able to speed that shutter up significantly.

After going through all my options/settings I have yet to come across this option.Maybe I am over looking ? but no luck yet a pal has the sd1100 w/the CHDK and he has yet to find anything as well.
 
Yeah, I'm not sure what to tell you. According to the user manual they can all be set. I would pull that up and look through real carefully for the setting. The shutter speed is a absolutely the problem and the solution is going to either be adjusting the ISO or the aperture or a combination of the two.
 
bpetruzzo is right on, all you have to do is crank up the shutterspeed

theres nothing wrong with your camera either, even if you have your shutterspeed around 1/250ths of a second should be satisfactory for shooting like this...
 
Since the background isn't all that interesting, you could try panning. As you shoot, move your camera in the direction of the subject and if done properly, you 'll have him in focus and the surrounding scenery blurred. This only works with a shutter speed of what you were originally shooting or slower. It's fun to experiment with you you may like the results more than just having a fast shot in focus.
 
bpetruzzo is right on, all you have to do is crank up the shutterspeed

theres nothing wrong with your camera either, even if you have your shutterspeed around 1/250ths of a second should be satisfactory for shooting like this...

Well one of these days I'll get him back out there so we can work on something better.I took this awhile back maybe a month? and now I can change my shutter speed and ISO settings dramatically unlike before w/the standard settings.I hope to gain something now..Thanks.


Since the background isn't all that interesting, you could try panning. As you shoot, move your camera in the direction of the subject and if done properly, you 'll have him in focus and the surrounding scenery blurred. This only works with a shutter speed of what you were originally shooting or slower. It's fun to experiment with you you may like the results more than just having a fast shot in focus.

I'll try this as well..anyone got any pointers for a continuous shot photo?.I have done maybe 2 but that was again before I was able to drastically change my shutter speeds.and it gaped the pictures way too much it was same place just different angel.here is one of the continues pictures I kept:

012-3.jpg


Thanks for all the help & pointers everyone I'll be sure to try this when we go ride some more!.
 
what do you mean by "continuous"
 
I guess also known as a "Sequence photo" my mode is called continuous so that's why I said that.
 

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