High ISO on a Yashica Electro 35

,,,
It seems like the filter option kind of defeats the purpose of using 3200 film in the first place (I was hoping to shoot in very low light).

The filter won't defeat anything. Your camera will be set for ISO 1000
and you'll be shooting ISO 3200 film. ...

Yes, it will defeat a lot. Using the filter will eliminate any low light shooting advantage over shooting an ISO 800-1000 film. With ISO 3200 and a 2 stop filter you will be shooting at the same f/stop and shutter speed combination as you would with an ISO 800 film and no filter.
 
,,,
It seems like the filter option kind of defeats the purpose of using 3200 film in the first place (I was hoping to shoot in very low light).

The filter won't defeat anything. Your camera will be set for ISO 1000
and you'll be shooting ISO 3200 film. ...

Yes, it will defeat a lot. Using the filter will eliminate any low light shooting advantage over shooting an ISO 800-1000 film. With ISO 3200 and a 2 stop filter you will be shooting at the same f/stop and shutter speed combination as you would with an ISO 800 film and no filter.

Shooting ISO 3200 film at ISO 3200 with camera set to ISO 1000 will
over-expose. The filter would compensate for this over-exposure.

If he wishes to shoot the ISO 3200 film at ISO 1000 then no filter is
needed. But, the OP said he wished to shoot at ISO 3200 so that
is why the filter was recommended. The Electro is an auto-exposure
only camera with no internal compensation nor any way to manually
adjust exposure except via a filter.

Now, chances are, over-exposing the ISO 3200 film (by shooting at
ISO 1000 and processing as 3200) will still give acceptable results due
to the film's latitude.
 
I think Superia 1600 has been discontinued

Nope. It's still shown as a current product on their web site:
FUJICOLOR SUPERIA 1600 | Fujifilm Global
Freestyle does not have it. BH is out of stock. Adorama still has it (yeah!).

Even though it's still on Fuji's web site I fear these are signs they may be planning to drop it. I may stock up while Adorama still has it.

Freestyle and B&H have never carried every type of film available so
I don't see that their not carrying this one means anything about the
future of the film.
 
The filter won't defeat anything. Your camera will be set for ISO 1000
and you'll be shooting ISO 3200 film. ...

Yes, it will defeat a lot. Using the filter will eliminate any low light shooting advantage over shooting an ISO 800-1000 film. With ISO 3200 and a 2 stop filter you will be shooting at the same f/stop and shutter speed combination as you would with an ISO 800 film and no filter.

Shooting ISO 3200 film at ISO 3200 with camera set to ISO 1000 will
over-expose. The filter would compensate for this over-exposure.

If he wishes to shoot the ISO 3200 film at ISO 1000 then no filter is
needed. But, the OP said he wished to shoot at ISO 3200 so that
is why the filter was recommended. The Electro is an auto-exposure
only camera with no internal compensation nor any way to manually
adjust exposure except via a filter.

I think you missed the point of the op's question.. it seems pretty obvious he wants to shoot the film AT 3200, not 1000.. so yes, the filter would completely defeat the whole purpose of using 3200 film, so the correct answer would be you can't do it with the Electro since it's got no way to compensate in camera.
 
From Kodak Tech Pub F-4016.
KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX P3200 Film is specifically designed to be used as a multi-speed film. The speed you use depends on your application; make tests to determine the appropriate speed.

The nominal speed is EI 1000 when the film is processed in KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX Developer or KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX Developer and Replenisher, or EI 800 when it is processed in other Kodak black-and-white developers. It was determined in a manner published in ISO standards. For ease in calculating exposure and consistancy with the commonly used scale of film-speed numbers, the nominal speed has been rounded to EI 800.

Because of its great latitude, you can expose this film at EI 1600 and yield negatives of high quality. There will be no change in the grain of the final print, but there may be a slight loss of shadow detail. When you need a higher speed, you can expose this film at EI 3200 or 6400. At these speed there will be a slight increase in graininess and contrast with additional loss in shadow detail. (See the processing tables for adjusted development times.)

Because of the shape of the characteristic curve of the film, you will obtain better shadow detail and highlight separation when you expose it at EI 3200 or 6400 than you can obtain with 400-speed films pushed by 3 stops.
 
I think you missed the point of the op's question.. it seems pretty obvious he wants to shoot the film AT 3200, not 1000.. so yes, the filter would completely defeat the whole purpose of using 3200 film, so the correct answer would be you can't do it with the Electro since it's got no way to compensate in camera.

I think you missed the point for using the filter. :lol:

I am well aware he wishes to shoot the film at ISO 3200 and the
only correct way to do that with the camera he is using is as I've
stated.

The Electro does not have TTL metering. The meter window is up beside
the rangefinder and away from the lens. So a filter placed on the lens
has no effect on the meter. The meter will contine to provide exposures
at ISO 1000 and the filter will compensate and provide exposures at
approximately ISO 3200 which is what the OP asked for.

Additionally, the camera only has ISO settings that go up to ISO 1000
and it is an auto-exposure-only camera.

So, using a filter with a factor of about 3 (such as an orange filter)
in combination with an ISO setting of 1000 on the camera will approximate
shooting at ISO 3200 which is what the OP said he wanted to do.

The filter will reduce the camera's ISO 1000 exposure index by
approximately 2½ stops resulting in approximately the equivalent
of the ISO 3200 desired.

I think the confusion that this subject is evidently causing on some
people here is the assumption that the camera has a TTL meter
which it doesn't.

You have to work it out. It is correct. Remember that the meter is not
TTL and the camera is auto-exposure only and can only be set to ISO
1000. It may not seem correct to place a filter on a camera in which
you wish to shoot in low light but in this case it is correct IF you wish
to shoot at ISO 3200.

I wouldn't do it that way (I would simply shoot at ISO 1000) but the
filter trick does answer the question of how to shoot at ISO 3200
on the Electro.

Or, as I've said repeatedly, you can simple shoot the ISO film at
ISO 1000 and use no filter -- either by appropriate processing
or by relying on the latitude of the film.
 
I think you missed the point for using the filter. :lol:

I am well aware he wishes to shoot the film at ISO 3200 and the
only correct way to do that with the camera he is using is as I've
stated.

The Electro does not have TTL metering. The meter window is up beside
the rangefinder and away from the lens. So a filter placed on the lens
has no effect on the meter. The meter will contine to provide exposures
at ISO 1000 and the filter will compensate and provide exposures at
approximately ISO 3200 which is what the OP asked for.

Additionally, the camera only has ISO settings that go up to ISO 1000
and it is an auto-exposure-only camera.

So, using a filter with a factor of about 3 (such as an orange filter)
in combination with an ISO setting of 1000 on the camera will approximate
shooting at ISO 3200 which is what the OP said he wanted to do.

The filter will reduce the camera's ISO 1000 exposure index by
approximately 2½ stops resulting in approximately the equivalent
of the ISO 3200 desired.

I think the confusion that this subject is evidently causing on some
people here is the assumption that the camera has a TTL meter
which it doesn't.

You have to work it out. It is correct. Remember that the meter is not
TTL and the camera is auto-exposure only and can only be set to ISO
1000. It may not seem correct to place a filter on a camera in which
you wish to shoot in low light but in this case it is correct IF you wish
to shoot at ISO 3200.

I wouldn't do it that way (I would simply shoot at ISO 1000) but the
filter trick does answer the question of how to shoot at ISO 3200
on the Electro.

Or, as I've said repeatedly, you can simple shoot the ISO film at
ISO 1000 and use no filter -- either by appropriate processing
or by relying on the latitude of the film.

OK.. i'll admit, I forgot about the meter being outside the lens.. been awhile since i've used mine (since it broke) but I still can't wrap my head around what you're saying with the filter. It seems that if you put a filter on the lens, that would mean less light is hitting the film..so wouldn't that be the opposite of what he wants?
 
OK.. i'll admit, I forgot about the meter being outside the lens.. been awhile since i've used mine (since it broke) but I still can't wrap my head around what you're saying with the filter. It seems that if you put a filter on the lens, that would mean less light is hitting the film..so wouldn't that be the opposite of what he wants?

Yes, less light is hitting the film through the filter. That's correct. That's all
that "shooting at a higher ISO" really means when using film photography.
It means we are reducing the amount of light which is hitting the film (and
later processing accordingly).

For example, if you shoot an ISO 400 film at ISO 800 all you're doing is
using one stop less exposure than you would if you shot it normally. You're
just reducing the amount of light that hits the film by one stop. Then,
later, the film is "pushed" by processing with a longer development stage.

The Electro can only be set for a max ISO of 1000 but the photog wants
to shoot ISO 3200 film at ISO 3200.

So something must be done to compensate between the 1000 setting of
the camera and the desired 3200. And, it's an auto-only camera with
non-TTL metering. We have to "increase the ISO we are shooting at"
which is the same as saying "reduce the amount of light hitting the film"
and the only way to do that on that camera is via a filter.

Then the camera "thinks" it's shooting at ISO 1000 but it's really shooting
at ISO 3200 because the amount of light hitting the film has been reduced
to an approximate equivalent to shooting at ISO 3200.

But, again I wouldn't do it that way myself. I would simply shoot it at ISO
1000 with no filter and process accordingly.

But, this idea does have application when using these older rangefinders
with non-TTL meters and we either want to compensate for ISO limitations
of the camera's meter or because the meter has gotten tired and lost some
of its sensitivity. The filter trick is an easy way to do that.
 

Most reactions

New Topics

Back
Top