How to get used to manual mode?

[SuperMiguel]

Should i mess with that? or just leave it as 100 ON 1600 and 1/200 sec

Going to take few pictures this weekend and wanted to try this out... Ill probably get away from auto mode this weekend and get into A/S/P mode =)

 

[D7K]

Yea breast feed is the way to go.:thumbup:

Here you go: http://1000funnypictures.com

Was not prepared... Cannot unsee......

 

[WayneF]

So I currently have a D7100, got it few months back, just got to take family pics for trips, so i mostly shoot in auto mode, i been lately trying to switch to A/S mode, and even manual mode, but the problem i have is for example in manual mode where i do get the ambient light sensor it takes me about 10-20 seconds (sometimes way longer) to get my settings where they are close to mid in the sensor, most of the time when im in a family trip things happens instantaneously, or i just have few seconds to take the shoot and i dont have those 20 seconds to adjust settings, is there anything i can do to get faster at manual mode?

If you are just centering the meter in M mode, then one opinion is that you're wasting time. Choose the most important factor about your picture. If it is depth of field, then in camera A mode, you can choose and set your aperture, and the automation will center the meter. Or if it is stopping motion, you could use camera S mode and choose your shutter speed, and the automation will center the meter. Does it really matter who centers the meter? This is control, you are still controlling the important choices by setting either aperture or shutter speed. And once chosen, the other value is not really arbitrary, centering the meter is normally a good thing. The computer can do that well, and fast. Except in A mode, sometimes we realize the final combination is not best, and we reselect and do it over. In A mode, this is just one setting change, not two.

Again, does it really matter who centers the meter?

If you are planning to apply some compensation, adjusting it to be a little off one way or other, then M mode does allow that easily.

I like camera A mode, but I do use camera M mode, mostly with flash, when I am adjusting the light to a specific exposure. If I am adjusting the camera to the light, then camera A or S mode does that, really fast, and I still have control of the important parameters.

 

[WayneF]

Also can any one explain flash.. Like when in in P/A/S mode, to use flash i just push the flash button, will the camera make adjustments to my A and S based on the flash being on?

No. Using TTL flash, the camera simply meters the ambient, and sets the settings for the ambient. Presence of the flash can limit minimum and maximum shutter speed (which does not affect the flash exposure). All TTL metering does is to adjust flash power level to work into the ISO and aperture settings that it discovers in place. It is a very good plan to turn Auto ISO OFF for flash (absolutely required for manual flash mode). Camera models vary, but with many current camera models, flash pictures in dim indoors (places where we need flash) will discover a very high ISO is in use, in spite of our using flash.

See Four Flash Photography Basics we must know - Flash pictures are Double Exposures regarding Necessary Things To Know about Nikon TTL flash.

 

[table1349]

So I currently have a D7100, got it few months back, just got to take family pics for trips, so i mostly shoot in auto mode, i been lately trying to switch to A/S mode, and even manual mode, but the problem i have is for example in manual mode where i do get the ambient light sensor it takes me about 10-20 seconds (sometimes way longer) to get my settings where they are close to mid in the sensor, most of the time when im in a family trip things happens instantaneously, or i just have few seconds to take the shoot and i dont have those 20 seconds to adjust settings, is there anything i can do to get faster at manual mode?

Late to the thread but I will put it to you quick and simple. JUST DO IT! Pay attention to what you do, learn from you mistakes, correct them and learn. Like learning to drive a stick shift. You have to understand the basics of steering, what the gas peddle, brake peddle and clutch peddle do. They you go out and do it. You get the hang of it, you get smother and quicker.

 

[hamlet]

I don't go into manual anymore really or very rarely when auto is not an option. Aperture priority can be used for slow moving or stationary subjects, shutter priority i use for when i want to capture something fast or if i'm going for a certain creative look.

 

[greybeard]

most of the time when im in a family trip things happens instantaneously, or i just have few seconds to take the shoot and i dont have those 20 seconds to adjust settings, is there anything i can do to get faster at manual mode?

That is what automatic modes are for, quick grab shots when you don't have time for manual adjustments. I personally use manual exposure and focus only when the situation calls for it. Missing a shot because you are fumbling with camera settings is letting the tail wag the dog. (imho)

 

[Derrel]

If you are just centering the meter in M mode, then one opinion is that you're wasting time. Choose the most important factor about your picture. If it is depth of field, then in camera A mode, you can choose and set your aperture, and the automation will center the meter. Or if it is stopping motion, you could use camera S mode and choose your shutter speed, and the automation will center the meter. Does it really matter who centers the meter? This is control, you are still controlling the important choices by setting either aperture or shutter speed. And once chosen, the other value is not really arbitrary, centering the meter is normally a good thing. The computer can do that well, and fast. Except in A mode, sometimes we realize the final combination is not best, and we reselect and do it over. In A mode, this is just one setting change, not two.

Again, does it really matter who centers the meter?

If you are planning to apply some compensation, adjusting it to be a little off one way or other, then M mode does allow that easily.

I like camera A mode, but I do use camera M mode, mostly with flash, when I am adjusting the light to a specific exposure. If I am adjusting the camera to the light, then camera A or S mode does that, really fast, and I still have control of the important parameters.

Everything Wayne said above makes total sense to me. The one thing to add is that by using AUTO ISO, you can set a Manual exposure; meaning set a specific shutter speed, and a specific f/stop, and the camera's automation can MAKE THAT BE the right "centered" exposure, as the light level goes up or down, or as the camera swings from a dark area, to a lighter area, or as a dog runs from the dim twilight camera left, and runs right past the blinding, 12 stops brighrer setting sun's reflection on a wet, sandy beach...all withyout you doing anything except tracking the running dog, and shooting images.

Using AUTO ISO with a modern Pentax or Nikon, you can make BOTH of the creative choices, the f/stop for DOF and the shutter for motion stopping or whatnot, and then the Automatic ISO adjustment can cause those to be "the right exposure"...basically, instantly. You can also add or subtract exposure compensation, for the degree of desired offset. This way of shooting was NOT really that viable until the Sony Exmoor generation of ultra-wide DR sensors with amazing high-ISO performance hit the market in Pentax cameras, and at that time, Nikon tweaked the way their AUTO ISO system worked in manual exposure metering mode (by copying Pentax, the company that invented the idea of Auto ISO that worked in MANUAL mode, years earlier). Other camera makers have not completely followed suit. I've recently begun using this method myself with an FX Nikon, and the freedom and consistency it brings is amazing. It was simply NOT a good way to shoot with the D2x and sensors of that era, which had wayyyyy more limited DR and much worse performance at higher ISO values.

 

[greybeard]

If you are just centering the meter in M mode, then one opinion is that you're wasting time. Choose the most important factor about your picture. If it is depth of field, then in camera A mode, you can choose and set your aperture, and the automation will center the meter. Or if it is stopping motion, you could use camera S mode and choose your shutter speed, and the automation will center the meter. Does it really matter who centers the meter? This is control, you are still controlling the important choices by setting either aperture or shutter speed. And once chosen, the other value is not really arbitrary, centering the meter is normally a good thing. The computer can do that well, and fast. Except in A mode, sometimes we realize the final combination is not best, and we reselect and do it over. In A mode, this is just one setting change, not two.

Again, does it really matter who centers the meter?

If you are planning to apply some compensation, adjusting it to be a little off one way or other, then M mode does allow that easily.

I like camera A mode, but I do use camera M mode, mostly with flash, when I am adjusting the light to a specific exposure. If I am adjusting the camera to the light, then camera A or S mode does that, really fast, and I still have control of the important parameters.

Everything Wayne said above makes total sense to me. The one thing to add is that by using AUTO ISO, you can set a Manual exposure; meaning set a specific shutter speed, and a specific f/stop, and the camera's automation can MAKE THAT BE the right "centered" exposure, as the light level goes up or down, or as the camera swings from a dark area, to a lighter area, or as a dog runs from the dim twilight camera left, and runs right past the blinding, 12 stops brighrer setting sun's reflection on a wet, sandy beach...all withyout you doing anything except tracking the running dog, and shooting images.

Using AUTO ISO with a modern Pentax or Nikon, you can make BOTH of the creative choices, the f/stop for DOF and the shutter for motion stopping or whatnot, and then the Automatic ISO adjustment can cause those to be "the right exposure"...basically, instantly. You can also add or subtract exposure compensation, for the degree of desired offset. This way of shooting was NOT really that viable until the Sony Exmoor generation of ultra-wide DR sensors with amazing high-ISO performance hit the market in Pentax cameras, and at that time, Nikon tweaked the way their AUTO ISO system worked in manual exposure metering mode (by copying Pentax, the company that invented the idea of Auto ISO that worked in MANUAL mode, years earlier). Other camera makers have not completely followed suit. I've recently begun using this method myself with an FX Nikon, and the freedom and consistency it brings is amazing. It was simply NOT a good way to shoot with the D2x and sensors of that era, which had wayyyyy more limited DR and much worse performance at higher ISO values.

I had never used or thought of using Auto ISO until reading this. I have an old POS 70-300 f/4-5.6 non VR that is descent when shot at 1/1000 and f/8-f/11 Auto ISO gives me the freedom to use this lens. Just set the aperture and shutter speed on manual and Auto ISO and snap away.