How to select Soft edge ND Graduated filter ?

[hombredelmar]

Sometimes I shoot landscapes/beaches/city and I always have the top part of my photo overexposed and the bottom of the picture is under exposed. I also know that soft ND graduated filters come in increments 0.3, 0.6, 0.9 and so on, they also come of different material and shape (construction)
My main question is how to select the right “strength” ????? Even though I understand that the strongest the sun the darker the top part of the filter should be.
I would appreciate any information/links/opinion/photo samples

Many thanks!!!

 

[tirediron]

Ideally, you should have a kit of 1, 2 and 3 stop G-NDs in both soft and hard transition. I prefer the rectangular gel-style (Lee, Singh-Ray, Cokin) as the shape allows you to place the graduation wherever you want it. As for selecting the 'right' one (or the right 'strength), what I usually do is decide how much of a difference I want between the highlight and shadow areas of the scene and then simply meter the various areas to determine "how much" ND you need.

 

[hombredelmar]

Ideally, you should have a kit of 1, 2 and 3 stop G-NDs in both soft and hard transition. I prefer the rectangular gel-style (Lee, Singh-Ray, Cokin) as the shape allows you to place the graduation wherever you want it. As for selecting the 'right' one (or the right 'strength), what I usually do is decide how much of a difference I want between the highlight and shadow areas of the scene and then simply meter the various areas to determine "how much" ND you need.

Thank you, got the point!

 

[D-B-J]

There is no simple "buy this one!" answer, sadly. I have all three in soft transition (0.3, 0.6, 0.9 in the 100x150mm size), and use them in differing combinations depending on the situation. I only ever use the 0.3 as an added filter, never by itself. I use the 0.6 and 0.9 most often, but the 0.6 may be your best bet, as it's not too much and it's not too little. Also, you don't specify what type of filter system you are looking at--square filters? Screw on filters? Personally, I would NEVER suggest a screw on GND--it limits your horizon to the center of the image, which can REALLY hamper creativity and composition. Often times I find myself moving them up high, down low, or rotating them in some way (see photo below). I really love my set of three, but felt like I needed more, so I just added a reverse graduated ND, which is awesome. Now all I need is a set of 3 hard edged GND's--I definitely suggest the soft transition first though, as they are easier to use than a hard transition. Softs are useful when you have an uneven horizon line, and hards are more used when you have a clear-cut horizon. In the second photo below, you can see how the right hand set of rocks just above the horizon line is really dark--this is as a result of the hard edged reverse GND.

You have many different companies to look at--the Cokin P system, Cokin Z system, Lee system (that's what I settled with), and a few others. Then companies like Hi-Tech, Singh-Ray, Lee, Cokin, Tiffen, and others make filters. I realized that the Lee system was one of the more expensive options, but I saw it as "I'll have these filters until I break one, so I ought to buy the best I can." Hope that helps!




The Setting Sun by f_one_eight, on Flickr

Cheers!
Jake

 

[hombredelmar]

There is no simple "buy this one!" answer, sadly. I have all three in soft transition (0.3, 0.6, 0.9 in the 100x150mm size), and use them in differing combinations depending on the situation. I only ever use the 0.3 as an added filter, never by itself. I use the 0.6 and 0.9 most often, but the 0.6 may be your best bet, as it's not too much and it's not too little. Also, you don't specify what type of filter system you are looking at--square filters? Screw on filters? Personally, I would NEVER suggest a screw on GND--it limits your horizon to the center of the image, which can REALLY hamper creativity and composition. Often times I find myself moving them up high, down low, or rotating them in some way (see photo below). I really love my set of three, but felt like I needed more, so I just added a reverse graduated ND, which is awesome. Now all I need is a set of 3 hard edged GND's--I definitely suggest the soft transition first though, as they are easier to use than a hard transition. Softs are useful when you have an uneven horizon line, and hards are more used when you have a clear-cut horizon. In the second photo below, you can see how the right hand set of rocks just above the horizon line is really dark--this is as a result of the hard edged reverse GND.

You have many different companies to look at--the Cokin P system, Cokin Z system, Lee system (that's what I settled with), and a few others. Then companies like Hi-Tech, Singh-Ray, Lee, Cokin, Tiffen, and others make filters. I realized that the Lee system was one of the more expensive options, but I saw it as "I'll have these filters until I break one, so I ought to buy the best I can." Hope that helps!




The Setting Sun by f_one_eight, on Flickr

Cheers!
Jake

Thank you D-B-J for sharing the knowledge with me, now I will have to read more and process it. Your pictures are amazing
Thanks again!!!

 

[dsiglin]

So in this vein, Besides less post processing, what are some advantages of using say a 3 stop soft graduated filter vs taking 2 or 3 shots at different exposures and blending them in photoshop(Not HDR but merging)?
Just curious, thanks!

 

[Anonimar]

So in this vein, Besides less post processing, what are some advantages of using say a 3 stop soft graduated filter vs taking 2 or 3 shots at different exposures and blending them in photoshop(Not HDR but merging)?
Just curious, thanks!

Exactly what you said, the only advantage is less post processing. Exposure blending is definitely the way to go, because unless you exclusively do seascapes with perfectly straight horizons more often than not you won't have a clean break between horizon and foreground.

 

[astroNikon]

So in this vein, Besides less post processing, what are some advantages of using say a 3 stop soft graduated filter vs taking 2 or 3 shots at different exposures and blending them in photoshop(Not HDR but merging)?
Just curious, thanks!

check this thread for starters
http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...d-filters-anyone-have-various-nds-photos.html

 

[Scatterbrained]

More natural balance between shadows and highlights. It's just a slightly different look. Beyond that, yes, it really is about getting the shot right in the camera, rather than having to take several and merge them in post. Oftentimes too, if you are running a long exposure, it's better to get it right. No one want's to try and take a series of 4 minute exposures when simply putting another filter on the lens would let you get it with one.

Another issue is the ever changing light at sunset. It can change quite fast, as in, between shots fast. I have a pano where one side is a sunset and the other is a night sky because the light changed faster than I could get the shots off.

 

[dsiglin]

Graduated ND filters, not circular ND filters. I have some circular ND filters and yes I love them for shallow DoF in bright sun and long exposures. I had contemplated buying some graduated ND filters but as Anonimar says, it's seems better to blend in photoshop if you know how to do it well. I'm going on vacation to the Italian countryside in a bit and the less gear I have to carry around (especially expensive glass) the better.

I do appreciate the technical skill required to get the effects right in camera and not afterwards at a computer.

 

[Anonimar]

Graduated ND filters, not circular ND filters. I have some circular ND filters and yes I love them for shallow DoF in bright sun and long exposures. I had contemplated buying some graduated ND filters but as Anonimar says, it's seems better to blend in photoshop if you know how to do it well. I'm going on vacation to the Italian countryside in a bit and the less gear I have to carry around (especially expensive glass) the better.

I amend what I said, the only time I would use a nd grad is like Scatterbrained said, long exposures during fast changing light. If you're doing a several minute exposure at dusk/dawn sometimes you literally only get one chance at the shot. If you aren't planning on doing any long exposure stuff skip the nd grad and just fire off bracketed shots.

 

[hombredelmar]

Thank you all for your input! From what I hear ND filters save time on post processing however post production saves money on ND filters, their maintenance and space in a backpack