HSS (High-Speed Sync) and image quality

syndicatedshannon

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I definitely don't want to restrict my daylight aperture with the off-camera flash equipment I'm buying. As you know, most current high-end consumer DSLR cameras have a maximum flash-sync shutter speed of about 1/250, meaning f/stops necessarily over 10 in daylight. So, I was doing some research on HSS.

I found these graphs of light amplitude from Canon HSS setups:

$FP_Sync_Optical.jpg

$1-128_hi2.jpg

It looks like the amplitude is inconstant enough to cause some banding at the expected resolutions. Is that true?

Are there flash units that have constant-duration adjustable power output, without that charge-bounce symptom? If so, what keyword/distinction would I look for when purchasing?
 
I definitely don't want to restrict my daylight aperture with the off-camera flash equipment I'm buying. As you know, most current high-end consumer DSLR cameras have a maximum flash-sync shutter speed of about 1/250, meaning f/stops necessarily over 10 in daylight. So, I was doing some research on HSS.

I found these graphs of light amplitude from Canon HSS setups:

View attachment 63428

View attachment 63429

It looks like the amplitude is inconstant enough to cause some banding at the expected resolutions. Is that true?

Are there flash units that have constant-duration adjustable power output, without that charge-bounce symptom? If so, what keyword/distinction would I look for when purchasing?

What kind of lights/strobes are you using?
 
I have one Canon 600ex, but was looking to buy a couple more devices with RF. Preferably significantly less expensive, non-vendor-specific, fairly portable and versatile, with a few modifiers. I asked my first question about that here yesterday.
 
I came across a similar issue. I ended up buying a Triopo speedlight, which is great, but it is the light that restricts your HSS capabilities. I have an Pixel King/Opas trigger system and Neewer strobes. What I found out is that with that specific trigger system, I can utilize my Neewer strobes (cheap knock off brand, but does the job well) because of the flash duration. I actually capture the tail end of the flash. I would focus on obtaining flashes that have HSS capabilities (I'm not sure about the 600 ex). I think Yongnuo 565EX is HSS; pretty comparable brand and is worth it (from what I heard).

Your other option is an ND filter. It's a cheaper route, but depending on the quality of the glass, you could lose some IQ.

But focus on the lights first, and then work backward.
 
As you know, most current high-end consumer DSLR cameras have a maximum flash-sync shutter speed of about 1/250, meaning f/stops necessarily over 10 in daylight.

And my understanding is that most DSLRs have this limitation; not just high-end DSLRs. I had a Rebel T3 that was at 1/250, and my 5D (classic) is 1/200. The EOS 1D has 1/500, but all other features of the camera are so obsolete (i.e. 4 MP, 1.3 crop factor etc.)
 
Great point on the ND filter, reavesce. I would certainly be willing to buy a few Yongnuo 565EX. I wonder if vendor-specific HSS isn't really the best way to go, though. I guess my question was really mainly about HSS quality. Also, could you explain what you mean by the flash duration on your Neewer + trigger? Are you talking about this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUwfwFYl2MY#t=330
 
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When you say vendor-specific, do you mean Canon with Canon?
 
You might find that in really bright lighting conditions, high-speed flash synch produces less-than-optimally-sharp images on moving subjects...even relatively slow-moving people can exhibit blur from the stroboscopic flash output. I shot some portraits a couple summers ago on a beach at 1/2000 second with a VERY high-resolution 200mm prime lens...and the girl's face was blurry, where the ambient light + the flash combinedNikon FPS flash output combined.

I've not seen banding,m but I have seen what I call "ghosting", which is an old term applied to the faint double-line imaging characteristic of an image that has a narrow delta between flash + ambient.
 
I do not have my manual with me, but I remember that my Nikon D7000 has a way to over-ride the max. sync speed of 1/250. Something was lost when one did this, but I cannot remember that either!
 
I do not have my manual with me, but I remember that my Nikon D7000 has a way to over-ride the max. sync speed of 1/250. Something was lost when one did this, but I cannot remember that either!

I think to 1/320 tops without any brand specific ttl capable wireless set up. My d700 is the same and my d90 you can enable auto FP as well.
 
600RT is your best bet. Buying triggers that can do HSS arent cheap either. It is a better spending if you buy 600RTs instead. That way you wont have cables or extra stuff dangling around. If 600RT isnt strong enough you can put several of them together.
 
600RT is your best bet. Buying triggers that can do HSS arent cheap either. It is a better spending if you buy 600RTs instead. That way you wont have cables or extra stuff dangling around. If 600RT isnt strong enough you can put several of them together.

Neewer strobe - $50
Opas receiver - $50
King transmitter -$100
HSS up to 1/8000.

That's my setup. Granted it's not Profoto or ABs, it does a great job.

I would highly consider an Alienbees or Einstein at that price point of a 600RT. If the OP wants to save cash, going directly to the high end speedlight may not be the way to go.
 
Yongnuo 622 triggers do TTL and HSS and are $80-ish a pair. Ive been extremely happy with mine with my nikon and yongnuo flashes. I dont actually use HSS very often, but i like having the ability to do so.

Yongnuo 568ex flashes do HSS and TTL and are $180 brand new. I have a few of them and they have been great.
 
Neewer strobe - $50 Opas receiver - $50 King transmitter -$100 HSS up to 1/8000. That's my setup. Granted it's not Profoto or ABs, it does a great job. I would highly consider an Alienbees or Einstein at that price point of a 600RT. If the OP wants to save cash, going directly to the high end speedlight may not be the way to go.

Post pics. I would like to see your strobe syncing that high. Not trying to stir up anything, I'm genuinely curious.
 

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