Infrared (w/ film). A few Questions...

myopia · Dec 13, 2006

so i searched for info on the topic but failed to find the info which satisfies my curiosity.

so, i will be using a minolta x-370 slr camera for this. does it matter which lens i use? the only lens which my red#25 filter will fit is a minolta MD 50mm f/1.7. i hope it works...

1. so like i mentioned previously, i will be using a red #25 filter, so does this change the process from what i would do if i used a different filter?

2. as far as focusing goes, should i be focusing on the forground or background? in the middle?

3. ISO setting on camera? 200?
4. my buddy told me to bracket each shot, so for each pic, i take it 3 times. so should i take the shot, then open the f-stop up once, take it again, then close the f-stop down to one below the original?

5. how do i use my light meter? i probably dont, so is this a guessing game?

Groupcaptainbonzo · Dec 14, 2006

Good IR set up... I have used an X-700 with the same lens for years..

If you do not put a "RED" filter on the end, the film will record a standard mono image. The filter cuts out all the light outside of its "Pass Band" IR film records light that our eyes don't. So if you use a RED filter you will cut out all the green/yellow/blue light and that will boost the IR effect on the prints. You can go further and use 720 nano meter or even shorter wave length filters. These are opaque to our eyes and mean that you have to compose an image on the tripod without the filter in place. Then you attach the filter and press the release. The result is not that different from the RED 25. so unless you are a purest is probably not worth the hassel.

IR light focuses at a slightly different plane than most of the visable stuff. Luckily Minolta (And MOST other manufacturers have thought of this). focus as normal... Then look at the focus scale just behind the focus ring. you will see a tiny red dot just above and to the right of the right hand 4 on the dial.Whatever is on the red focus line on the lens, should be put on the red dot. Job Done. I am a bit lazey and found that with a 24mm lens and a small (f16 or so) apperture. it made no difference at all.

ISO depends on far more things than I can guess at from here. MOst people use Kodak HSIR . Start to play with 200 to 400 but it is only the roughest of guides. Some other specialist films are still available. But the Ilford one is only a IR effect type of film and not up to much. IR film does not respond to the light the same way our eyes do. so metering becomes a matter of experience. 'Til then your on camera meter is going to be better than a hand held. But will often make mistakes. Also the amount of IR effect that you want will dictate the ISO as well.

With IR in the early days Bracketing is the best defense. Make your guess, Set 1 or 2 stops below. Shoot. open up 1/2 a stop shoot etc to 1 or 2 stops above.... See which you like best... next time you only need to brack by a stop either side.. Pretty soon you will be guessing , and hitting the mark every time.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/groupcaptainbonzo/Wyvenhoe.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/groupcaptainbonzo/TowerBridge01.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/groupcaptainbonzo/PetrifiedForest5.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/groupcaptainbonzo/

myopia · Dec 14, 2006

hey, thanks a lot. i realized after i wrote that post that it was a bit lengthy to the point of being a tall order, but u got every bit of it. thanks for putting that extra time in.

nice pics btw.

Groupcaptainbonzo · Dec 14, 2006

No probs, only too happy to help.

W A R N I N G ! ! !.

IR Photography, is habit forming......

If you scan the Negs as a Colour neg. The whole thing takes on a reddish brown cast which looks really good in some images.