Dominantly
TPF Noob!
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2009
- Messages
- 3,032
- Reaction score
- 168
- Location
- San Diego, CA (RB)
- Can others edit my Photos
- Photos NOT OK to edit
see sig #1
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Interesting theory.I saw a formula on how they got the aperture numbers, but it didn't make sense so I ignored it. Just remember that the bigger the number, the smaller the hole.
For me, the aperture setting is based upon what my light meter tells me. I dial in the type of film, and read the dial when I point it at the subject. Whatever it says is what I do.
Shutter speed is determined by the film I am using. 200 speed negative film means I set the shutter speed at 200. 64 speed reversal film requires a setting of 100.
Do the above and get your focus on, and you will have dandy pics.
Throw it out the window if you use filters. Then you have to bump the aperture settings to compensate for light loss.
If I use flashbulbs, the shutter speed is always 25. The aperature changes as the distance between the subject and camera changes.
There are special and rare times when you will change shutter speed and aperture because of the conditions at hand. That can get dicey. Depth of field and focal plane issues.
Too bad most people ever have to address these issues directly. Doing so allows a better understanding of how things work and interact. This allows the photographer to more intelligently and creatively use the tools at hand.
What?I saw a formula on how they got the aperture numbers, but it didn't make sense so I ignored it. Just remember that the bigger the number, the smaller the hole.
For me, the aperture setting is based upon what my light meter tells me. I dial in the type of film, and read the dial when I point it at the subject. Whatever it says is what I do. Seeing the conditions under which it gives a particular reading helps me get a grasp on what the numbers refer to.
Shutter speed is determined by the film I am using. 200 speed negative film means I set the shutter speed at 200. 64 speed reversal film requires a setting of 100. 400 negative is 400 and so on.
Do the above and get your focus on, and you will have dandy pics.
Throw it out the window if you use filters. Then you have to bump the aperture settings to compensate for light loss. You have to figure out how much compensation is required for each filter before you start.
If I use flashbulbs, the shutter speed is always 25. The aperature changes as the distance between the subject and camera changes. I always use the same style bulb, otherwise all the settings and computations would change.
There are special and rare times when you will adjust shutter speed and aperture in a different way because of the conditions at hand. That can get dicey. Depth of field and focal plane issues.
Too bad most people ever have to address these issues directly. Doing so allows a better understanding of how things work and interact. This allows the photographer to more intelligently and creatively use the tools he has at hand.
I saw a formula on how they got the aperture numbers, but it didn't make sense so I ignored it. Just remember that the bigger the number, the smaller the hole.
For me, the aperture setting is based upon what my light meter tells me. I dial in the type of film, and read the dial when I point it at the subject. Whatever it says is what I do. Seeing the conditions under which it gives a particular reading helps me get a grasp on what the numbers refer to.
Shutter speed is determined by the film I am using. 200 speed negative film means I set the shutter speed at 200. 64 speed reversal film requires a setting of 100. 400 negative is 400 and so on.
Do the above and get your focus on, and you will have dandy pics.
Throw it out the window if you use filters. Then you have to bump the aperture settings to compensate for light loss. You have to figure out how much compensation is required for each filter before you start.
If I use flashbulbs, the shutter speed is always 25. The aperature changes as the distance between the subject and camera changes. I always use the same style bulb, otherwise all the settings and computations would change.
There are special and rare times when you will adjust shutter speed and aperture in a different way because of the conditions at hand. That can get dicey. Depth of field and focal plane issues.
Too bad most people ever have to address these issues directly any more. Doing so allows a better understanding of how things work and interact. This allows the photographer to more intelligently and creatively use the tools he has at hand. Forgetting one or two steps can give amazing and unexpected results, so don't get too freaked out if you blow it. I got some of my best stuff that way.
All this still applies if you use digital. You just have to squint a little.
1/2.8 is a larger number than 1/22 isn't it?
Correct.
I saw a formula on how they got the aperture numbers, but it didn't make sense so I ignored it. Just remember that the bigger the number, the smaller the hole.
For me, the aperture setting is based upon what my light meter tells me. I dial in the type of film, and read the dial when I point it at the subject. Whatever it says is what I do. Seeing the conditions under which it gives a particular reading helps me get a grasp on what the numbers refer to.
Shutter speed is determined by the film I am using. 200 speed negative film means I set the shutter speed at 200. 64 speed reversal film requires a setting of 100. 400 negative is 400 and so on.
Do the above and get your focus on, and you will have dandy pics.
Throw it out the window if you use filters. Then you have to bump the aperture settings to compensate for light loss. You have to figure out how much compensation is required for each filter before you start.
If I use flashbulbs, the shutter speed is always 25. The aperature changes as the distance between the subject and camera changes. I always use the same style bulb, otherwise all the settings and computations would change.
There are special and rare times when you will adjust shutter speed and aperture in a different way because of the conditions at hand. That can get dicey. Depth of field and focal plane issues.
Too bad most people ever have to address these issues directly any more. Doing so allows a better understanding of how things work and interact. This allows the photographer to more intelligently and creatively use the tools he has at hand. Forgetting one or two steps can give amazing and unexpected results, so don't get too freaked out if you blow it. I got some of my best stuff that way.
All this still applies if you use digital. You just have to squint a little.
Perhaps you didn't notice I wasn't talking about modern things. As I said it sure does work like a charm. But then, maybe I'm just gifted and can produce excellent photographs by doing everything wrong.
I learned from the manuals that came with the equipment. But what would the people that designed and built the equipment know? Be sure and tell Kodak they don't know what they are doing too.
I withdraw from this flame forum. Too bad we can't be nice and learn from the ways of others.
I wonder why it works so well? Read a profile. I don't use modern cameras, and I don't use textbooks.
I was afraid this would degenerate into a flame board. It's just that. Congrats, I'm gone from this forum. Maybe I'll find a good one.