Is f2.8 larger or is f/22 larger

I saw a formula on how they got the aperture numbers, but it didn't make sense so I ignored it. Just remember that the bigger the number, the smaller the hole.

For me, the aperture setting is based upon what my light meter tells me. I dial in the type of film, and read the dial when I point it at the subject. Whatever it says is what I do.

Shutter speed is determined by the film I am using. 200 speed negative film means I set the shutter speed at 200. 64 speed reversal film requires a setting of 100.

Do the above and get your focus on, and you will have dandy pics.

Throw it out the window if you use filters. Then you have to bump the aperture settings to compensate for light loss.

If I use flashbulbs, the shutter speed is always 25. The aperature changes as the distance between the subject and camera changes.

There are special and rare times when you will change shutter speed and aperture because of the conditions at hand. That can get dicey. Depth of field and focal plane issues.

Too bad most people ever have to address these issues directly. Doing so allows a better understanding of how things work and interact. This allows the photographer to more intelligently and creatively use the tools at hand.
Interesting theory.

I would however say that, Aperture should receive more consideration then simply the tool to adjust your light meter.
I went over it quite a bit in here.... Even the formula.(if you get bored)
http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...9084-exposure-your-photographic-triangle.html
 
I saw a formula on how they got the aperture numbers, but it didn't make sense so I ignored it. Just remember that the bigger the number, the smaller the hole.

For me, the aperture setting is based upon what my light meter tells me. I dial in the type of film, and read the dial when I point it at the subject. Whatever it says is what I do. Seeing the conditions under which it gives a particular reading helps me get a grasp on what the numbers refer to.

Shutter speed is determined by the film I am using. 200 speed negative film means I set the shutter speed at 200. 64 speed reversal film requires a setting of 100. 400 negative is 400 and so on.

Do the above and get your focus on, and you will have dandy pics.

Throw it out the window if you use filters. Then you have to bump the aperture settings to compensate for light loss. You have to figure out how much compensation is required for each filter before you start.

If I use flashbulbs, the shutter speed is always 25. The aperature changes as the distance between the subject and camera changes. I always use the same style bulb, otherwise all the settings and computations would change.

There are special and rare times when you will adjust shutter speed and aperture in a different way because of the conditions at hand. That can get dicey. Depth of field and focal plane issues.

Too bad most people ever have to address these issues directly. Doing so allows a better understanding of how things work and interact. This allows the photographer to more intelligently and creatively use the tools he has at hand.
What?
 
I saw a formula on how they got the aperture numbers, but it didn't make sense so I ignored it. Just remember that the bigger the number, the smaller the hole.

For me, the aperture setting is based upon what my light meter tells me. I dial in the type of film, and read the dial when I point it at the subject. Whatever it says is what I do. Seeing the conditions under which it gives a particular reading helps me get a grasp on what the numbers refer to.

Shutter speed is determined by the film I am using. 200 speed negative film means I set the shutter speed at 200. 64 speed reversal film requires a setting of 100. 400 negative is 400 and so on.

Do the above and get your focus on, and you will have dandy pics.

Throw it out the window if you use filters. Then you have to bump the aperture settings to compensate for light loss. You have to figure out how much compensation is required for each filter before you start.

If I use flashbulbs, the shutter speed is always 25. The aperature changes as the distance between the subject and camera changes. I always use the same style bulb, otherwise all the settings and computations would change.

There are special and rare times when you will adjust shutter speed and aperture in a different way because of the conditions at hand. That can get dicey. Depth of field and focal plane issues.

Too bad most people ever have to address these issues directly any more. Doing so allows a better understanding of how things work and interact. This allows the photographer to more intelligently and creatively use the tools he has at hand. Forgetting one or two steps can give amazing and unexpected results, so don't get too freaked out if you blow it. I got some of my best stuff that way.

All this still applies if you use digital. You just have to squint a little.

Really? WOW! I'm going to have to review my way of doing things. :lmao:

Only on the web will we find the blinds leading the blinds...


When I read pros worried about losing their business to amateurs with DSLRs I have to wonder how pro they are... Is anyone worried about this person?

Sorry buddy. Back to the text book.
 
I saw a formula on how they got the aperture numbers, but it didn't make sense so I ignored it. Just remember that the bigger the number, the smaller the hole.

For me, the aperture setting is based upon what my light meter tells me. I dial in the type of film, and read the dial when I point it at the subject. Whatever it says is what I do. Seeing the conditions under which it gives a particular reading helps me get a grasp on what the numbers refer to.

Shutter speed is determined by the film I am using. 200 speed negative film means I set the shutter speed at 200. 64 speed reversal film requires a setting of 100. 400 negative is 400 and so on.

Do the above and get your focus on, and you will have dandy pics.

Throw it out the window if you use filters. Then you have to bump the aperture settings to compensate for light loss. You have to figure out how much compensation is required for each filter before you start.

If I use flashbulbs, the shutter speed is always 25. The aperature changes as the distance between the subject and camera changes. I always use the same style bulb, otherwise all the settings and computations would change.

There are special and rare times when you will adjust shutter speed and aperture in a different way because of the conditions at hand. That can get dicey. Depth of field and focal plane issues.

Too bad most people ever have to address these issues directly any more. Doing so allows a better understanding of how things work and interact. This allows the photographer to more intelligently and creatively use the tools he has at hand. Forgetting one or two steps can give amazing and unexpected results, so don't get too freaked out if you blow it. I got some of my best stuff that way.

All this still applies if you use digital. You just have to squint a little.

hum .... I must went to the wrong direction for the past 1 1/2 years of my photography learning since everything I learned were different.
 
Smaller the # the larger the opening - Larger the # the smaller the opening is.
 
Perhaps you didn't notice I wasn't talking about modern things. As I said it sure does work like a charm. But then, maybe I'm just gifted and can produce excellent photographs by doing everything wrong.

I learned from the manuals that came with the equipment. But what would the people that designed and built the equipment know? Be sure and tell Kodak they don't know what they are doing too.

I withdraw from this flame forum. Too bad we can't be nice and learn from the ways of others.

RLJ, I apologize if I offend you from the last post. I really don't mean that. However, the concept you present seems to be off. Perhaps we can discuss about that so that we can all improve. Really no need to leave this forum.

I really do not think there are much different in regards of Exposure between film or digital SLR cameras. ISO/ASA <> Shutter Speed <> Aperture should works the same.
 
I wonder why it works so well? Read a profile. I don't use modern cameras, and I don't use textbooks.

I was afraid this would degenerate into a flame board. It's just that. Congrats, I'm gone from this forum. Maybe I'll find a good one.

With all of your 8 helpfull post, I'm sure that you'll be dearly missed...LoL. Seriously, this is a fantastic board - by far the best that I have joined recently! The problem with people such as yourself is that you seem to lack the ability to let the doo-doo roll off of you. Its an I-N-T-E-R-N-E-T F-O-R-U-M...Your feelings are bound to get hurt once in a while if you can't learn to sift through the bs. Another thing, perhaps you're a little overly sensative? ...Personally I feel that if you can't safely wade through the swamp, I don't want you anywhere around my canoe anyway. Having said that, I bid you farwell. Though, I would rather see you grow and lose the name calling "flame board" attitude and stick around. If you can learn to accept a little critisim once in a while, learn not to get your back in a hump so quickly and accept that we ALL make mistakes from time to time then this can be a really great place. There are some AMAZINGLY talented folks here who are more than happy to help.

My advice...Put on your BS deflectors and stick around.

- Dan
 
first of all, when you quote you have to leave the front half of the tags in there or it doesn't show as a quote.

Second... it doesn't matter if you use a modern camera or not. shutter speed is not tied to the film.

Film speed is roughly equivalent to a digital camera's ISO. Thus, you will have to dial in the ISO/ASA for the camera's light meter to read the scene correctly. However, you can still work with both the aperture and the shutter speed to come up with the proper exposure.

Secondly, as you said when using flash the shutter speed does not matter a great deal in the lighting. The shutter speed only controls for the amount of ambient light allowed in the image. Thus, you will find that if you vary the shutter speed then more or less ambient light (that light which is not from your flash) will be let in this is particularly useful if the room you are shooting in has nice ambient light and you just want to add a touch of extra lighting.

wow, "I withdraw from this flame forum"? you have been on here for all of 9 posts.
 

Most reactions

New Topics

Back
Top