Is This Chromatic Aberration?

[M.elty]

Here's a sample picture of a Queen Anne's Lace that I took in full sunlight with the kit lens of my EOS Rebel T3i. I've noticed that typical red/blue aberration can be seen on the edges of a lot of things in my photos, but this white haze effect is really the most annoying since I can't correct it in Lightroom. I did have a UV filter on my lens, but even when I removed it both the red/blue aberration and the white haze persists. This image was shot in JPEG, but it persists in RAW as well.

What is this? Is there a way to correct the white haze/bloom?

 

[KmH]

A UV filter is going to reduce the contrast in your photo.
You don't say what lens you used and some lenses also reduce contrast in photos.
reduced contrast gives a photo a hazy look.

Lightroom can remove most chromatic aberration. A white haze isn't chromatic aberration but I don't see the white haze/bloom you are referring to.
The exposure value for the whites is good as far as not being or near to being clipped (blown).

Lightroom's Develop module Basic panel has a group of 3 sliders known as the Presence controls - Clarity, Vibrance, and Saturation.
I add Clarity and Vibrance to pretty much every photo I edit.
Adding Contrast might also help. You can add contrast in the Basic panel or you can use the Tone Curve panel

JPEGs made in the camera are intended as a finished, ready to print photo and have little if any editing headroom.

 

[CameraClicker]

Here's a sample picture of a Queen Anne's Lace that I took in full sunlight with the kit lens of my EOS Rebel T3i. I've noticed that typical red/blue aberration can be seen on the edges of a lot of things in my photos, but this white haze effect is really the most annoying since I can't correct it in Lightroom. I did have a UV filter on my lens, but even when I removed it both the red/blue aberration and the white haze persists. This image was shot in JPEG, but it persists in RAW as well.

What is this? Is there a way to correct the white haze/bloom?

The red/blue is chromatic aberration. The white haze is probably light on your front element. UV filters don't correct anything when on a digital camera. Try a lens hood. For a few dollars you can get a rubber one. Better lenses usually come with a custom shaped hood.

Sometimes landscape photos have a haze due to humidity. Adjusting contrast, either for the whole image or for distant parts, is beneficial.

 

[runnah]

In direct sun, white things turn into mini light sources. Shooting one stop darker will help prevent this from happening.

 

[BillM]

I'm not seeing any ca in this shot.

 

[molested_cow]

What lens were you using? I have a zoom lens that when stretched to the fullest, gives similar result. Also, did you try auto lens correction in RAW editor?

 

[M.elty]

I'm not sure how to describe what I see, other than "White haze" that blurs a little.
I will try shooting with different exposures to see if it's still present.

I'm using the kit lens from my Canon EOS Rebel T3i. EF-S 18-135mm IS Lens. It's all brand new, less than 3 weeks old and has had a UV filter on it the entire time, aside from a few test shots. There's no dirt or anything on the lens or filter.

I'll try to replicate it as well, since it's in a lot of my Jpeg shots. I'll shoot in raw for testing and see if I can get rid of it in Lightroom. It's odd because it never happened on my old T3i, same lens, even with auto exposure.

 

[Overread]

In direct sun, white things turn into mini light sources. Shooting one stop darker will help prevent this from happening.

This - bright strong sunlight on a white surface boosts the chances of over-exposure and for a subject like this can even trick the cameras meter. Typically a 1/3rd to full stop underexposure is what I use when shooting in strong sunlight to help avoid this problem with highlights and other white/highly reflective surfaces.

 

[CameraClicker]

Try adding a little contrast.
When posting, if you keep EXIF data (don't use Save for Web) it will help us because we can see how your camera was set.

 

[Overread]

Whilst haze caused by elements like an out of focus, but very close to the lens, element (such a wire at a zoo enclosure) can cause hazing and can be removed or significantly reduced by boosting the contrast, this isn't true of over-exposure haze. Or more to the point if you've already got over-exposure in the shot boosting the contrast will only worsen that effect. You could use layermasks so that only the hazy areas are affected by the contrast boost - but in a shot like the one shown above its such a complicated scene that a mask would take ages to produce and still wouldn't get around the over-exposure problems - plus with many of the hazy areas overlapping overexposed areas you'd have an inconsistent application of the haze reduction.