Just got the X150 Home Studio Lighting Kit for Christmas

[SolidBrowser]

Hello, this is my first post of many on the Forum.
I am not sure what level I am at, but I know the basics!
I am getting into lighting (Butterfly, etc..)
I started off with the basic lighting setup without a backlight (did not come with set, should it?)
What do you think of my lighting for the first time?

 

[KmH]

The photos are under exposed, white balance looks off a bit, and I would say there is to much ambient light exposure.

Did you get the Interfit Stellar x 150 , 2 monolight kit?

 

[flightless_beaker]

I mean for never picking up the lights, its ok. We all have to start off somewhere How do you have them set up? What did you meter them at?

 

[SolidBrowser]

I am yet to get a light meter, I was told if you have time you can judge for yourself.

 

[SolidBrowser]

My shot was taken at 1/200 6.3 white balance at flash +3 or -3 can't remember. .... I've noticed to get the right exposure (besides meter) I can look at the top of the image because you can see the shutter in affect if its too fast. Ambient light exposure? I guess I could diffuse those blinds to nothing. and my lights are very close I think thats what you mean. I don't have a big enough studio to separate them more so I guess ill just bring them back a touch.

 

[SolidBrowser]

Here is my setup...

 

[KmH]

Shutter speed controls the ambient light exposure. Lens aperture controls the strobe light exposure.

The closer the lights are the apparently larger the modifier is, and the softer the light and shadow edges are.
It is usually better to move the lights closer, and reduce their power output setting.

Plus you have to consider the inverse square law of light.
Light power falls off as a square function. If you move the lights 2x further away only 1/4 as much light gets to the subject, not 1/2 as much.
In the case of under exposure, moving the lights closer would add exposure.

 

[Derrel]

First time effort? I'll give it a B+. I have seen muuuuuuuuuch worse first efforts. Keep at it. Read some articles, at places like maybe the Photoflex Lighting School on the web, maybe watch a few videos on YouTube. I'd start learning about how lighting "works" mostly by setting up a still life, like say a glass of wine, or a bottle of beer and a beer glass, and a sandwich, or some cheese and fruit (grapes, apples, banana in a bowl), you know "familiar things", and then lighting them. Take one light and move it around, closer, farther, off to the side, more to the side, less to the side, in front, and so on, and make some still life photos. "See" what happens, learn how light works. I'm not kidding. The first night you do this, expect mostly garbage. After a while, you'll start making nice pictures.

I will give you one bit of advice: you are making a fundamental error that most beginners make, by placing the lights at opposite, nearly identical angles, which is called cross-lighting. It can create dueling shadows, and looks "flat", and dull, and not so good. My advice: set the softbox at 30 to 45 degrees off to the side, but pull the umbrella RIGHT NEXT TO the camera, and I mean RIGHT NEXT TO the camera, as the fill-in light. THat is called on-axis fill light, and is a surefire way to create a better-lloking lighting pattern on most subjects that make use of two lights.

 

[SolidBrowser]

I have summed up all your great responses:

Forum Lessons Lighting***


Problems:


Problem #1: Main Lights are too Close to each other.
(You can see two lights in the eyes)


Problem #2: UnderExposed.


Problem #3: Flat Images.
Solution #3: Move Lights around so they are not “crossed”. Also make a 3:1 light ratio.




Problem #4: Shooting JPEG


Problem #5: Bright Background, Low Contrast.
Solution #5: Due to the spill of light as it’s bouncing around the room (Dark Walls should be preferred). Also can move the light stands closer to the subject. Will also Have better control over the illumination of the subject.


Problem #6: Light going through the umbrella.
Solution #6: Fabricate something to block the light going through.


Tips:


1. Male Subject = More Skin Texture Desired


2. Turn shoulders not just head (Learn more about posing)


3. Edit in RAW (Find a RAW editor)


4. A light is considered “Close” if the distance between the light and the subject is less than the size of the light’s exit aperture (i.e., the size of the front of the soft box or umbrella).


5. With sources far from the subject, one always gets huge amounts of spill from one side to the other (search spill) because of light bouncing off the ceiling and other surfaces. The only way to get that 3:1 ratio is to move them more closely to the subject.


6. Never adjust shutter speed to change exposure due to the flash units, because the duration of the flash is always much shorter than the maximum shutter speed. (Has no effect really)


7. Try shooting with a custom white balance.


8. Shutter Speed controls the ambient light exposure.


9. Aperture controls the strobe light exposure. (Search Ambient Light).
(How can I get that great depth of field (f)1.1, if I am needing less strobe exposure?)


10. Inverse Square law of Light = 2x further away only 1/4 as much light gets on the subject, not 1/2.


11. YouTube and Photo Flex Lighting School can help. Practice and understand how light works. Try bottles and food.


12. Set Soft Box to 45 degrees, put umbrella right next to the camera. (This is called the on-axis light)