Kodak HIE Exposure

JamesD

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Okay, so I've bought a roll of HIE, and I'm planning on loading it into the AE-1P as soon as I have it in my hot little hands. So, reading the datasheet, it doesn't really give an ISO setting, instead referring to varying levels of IR in the scene.

Well, duh?

Then it says that if you're using a #25 in daylight (which I will be) to use EI 50--with a handheld meter. Then, there's a note saying that for a camera with TTL metering, and a filter, use EI 200.

So, I use EI 200, right? And if it's EI 50 with a #25 (and a handheld) and EI 80 without a #25 (but with a handheld) then with TTL but no #25 it should be EI 320, right? Two-thirds stop increase in film speed.

Don't even get me started on development times.... I mean, I use T-Max. Like, WTF, dudes? I mean, exactly what is a "contrast index"? I just want pictures of white trees for crying out loud!

:scratch:
 

terri

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Hush, Charlie. You're being a downer.

James: I don't know what a contrast index is, either. :sillysmi: And guess what? I can still shoot and develop the stuff just fine without that apparently precious tidbit of info.

I get impatient with things that are offered up that still leave me feeling confused. Word: cut the crap. :x

Okay James: here's what I do. I rate it faster than the so-called recommended times. (But then I don't mind grain, so if you do, you may not even like HIE, you may like some other IR that's tighter.) I shoot it just under 400, with a #25 red filter, and meter TTL.

I also ignore the blurbs I've read about focus issues, because I've never encountered any. Now, I've not done much close-up work with it, but from a reasonable distance without being set on infinity, I still have yet to have a focusing issue. Your results may vary. And HIE is soft and grainy, anyway.

Try the following:

Rate: ISO 360 or so

Use: #25 red filter (you can meter TTL)

Bracket: every shot

Load & unload: total darkness; they're not kidding ;)

Develop: TMax developer, 1:4, room temp (75 deg recommended but no higher), and HERE IS THE KEY - only ONE agitation per minute, 3 inversions at the very start, one inversion per minute ONLY - for 6 minutes total.


Most people consistently overexpose AND overdevelop HIE and then think the stuff sucks, blocked highlights, no shadow detail, etc.

And note in periods of high infrared - high sun or a subject with lots of greenery (landscape) - ALWAYS use your exposure compensation wheel and shoot at 1/2 X. Essentially, you're shooting at a higher ASA while keeping it rated at 360. We always bracket between 1/2 X and 0.

HIE likes to be shot when the sun is high - the time most people are avoiding cause they want those "golden hours".


That said, I've shot in all kinds of weather, too. ;)

HIE is like anything else in photography - study a bit, then find out what works for you by shooting the stuff!

Here's a focusing example: this one was taken with a wide angle lens about 12-15 feet in front of the building. Actually I had to lay on the sidewalk. Note that it's an overcast day (reduced radiation) but there is still that unique glow. I knew I'd get distortion in the building this close, but I wanted it.

584-sockshop.jpg



And this one I was able to focus on infinity with a fast shutter, and I had bracketed this one with the exposure compensation knob to either 1 or 2x:

584-AttheFair.jpg
It's grainy, but focused.
 

airgunr

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I've shot a couple of rolls of the Kodak HIE awhile ago. As I remember you select the ISO based on the developing style you will use. I used standard E-6 slide processing that you can get done at any developers.

Based on E-6 processing you then check the sheet in the box and I believe it tells you to set your ISO to 200. (It may have been ISO100 but it will say on the sheet).

Set the ISO on your camera and shoot away. You can use the internal meter on your Canon. I think you should have a "RED" mark on your lens as a focusing indicator for the Infared film.

You might want to experiment with Yellow and Red filters on the lense to give bright blue skys and water. MAKE SURE YOU LOAD AND UNLOAD IN TOTAL DARKNESS!!!!!!!
 

Jeff Canes

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airgunr said:
I've shot a couple of rolls of the Kodak HIE awhile ago. As I remember you select the ISO based on the developing style you will use. I used standard E-6 slide processing that you can get done at any developers.-----

i think that was EIR your used it color IR, HIR is b&w IR
 

terri

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Jeff Canes said:
i think that was EIR your used it color IR, HIR is b&w IR
I agree, with color IR you can use either C41 or E-6 processing.
 
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JamesD

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terri said:
And note in periods of high infrared - high sun or a subject with lots of greenery (landscape) - ALWAYS use your exposure compensation wheel and shoot at 1/2 X. Essentially, you're shooting at a higher ASA while keeping it rated at 360. We always bracket between 1/2 X and 0.
What exactly do you mean by "1/2 X and 0"? Half a stop underexposure? Half the exposure up to normal exposure?

Sorry, I'm just not quite clear on this one... and I got my film in the mail yesterday, so I'm a little anxious to get out and try it.
 

terri

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oh, I'm sorry. :blushing: I have to bracket with my exposure compensation knob because the camera I use, the trusty old Pentax ME, is aperture-priority, not a fully manual camera. When I start to babble about bracketing shots my mind's eye just goes to that knob. :lol: Basically yes, all I'm saying is to overexpose half a stop when bracketing. I find I will get a great negative more often from one slightly overexposed than under. But plan on minimum 3 frames per shot while you're messing with it the first couple of rolls, and keep notes so can see what works best for you when you review the negs.

And remember to go easy on the agitation when you develop it! It's thin stuff and doesn't like over-agitation at all.
 
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JamesD

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Okey-dokey... I just need to run through the about 17 shots left in the AE-1P so I can load it up. Eventually, I'll run it through the EOS system, but probably not the Rebel. My Elan didn't arrive today (alas!) and I'm not planning on keeping the Rebel, so there's no point, really. I think I'm gonna put it on Ebay.

Have you ever used flash with HIE?
 

terri

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JamesD said:
Okey-dokey... I just need to run through the about 17 shots left in the AE-1P so I can load it up. Eventually, I'll run it through the EOS system, but probably not the Rebel. My Elan didn't arrive today (alas!) and I'm not planning on keeping the Rebel, so there's no point, really. I think I'm gonna put it on Ebay.

Have you ever used flash with HIE?
Nope. Here's where I'm missing Matt Needham (ksmattfish). He ran a roll at a club with some buddies, and devised a red filter of sorts for the flash, not the lens. The pictures were awesome, and I think he lowered the ISO to....100-200, maybe? I don't know. It worked, but it's been a while so I don't recall the specs. Hopefully he'll pop in soon and see this. :)
 
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JamesD

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Let's not forget the most important part of HIE exposure: Loading it into the freaking camera and pushing the shutter release.

I still haven't got around to it. Tomorrow at the latest, although it's starting to get late in the day now...

I'm guessing that as the afternoon goes on, and the color of the sun warms up, the IR glow effect diminishes?
 

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