Landscape Photography

Yea, to get the whole river in at Horseshoe Bend you need to have the field-of-view of a lens in the 11mm to 12mm range on a crop body. Nice is at sunset and using a variable ND filter, but I usually like the color of the rocks when the sun is hitting them and that would be in the morning.

What I often do with static subjects like this when I need to cover a wider area than what my lens will do is to take multiple shots and stitch them together. To not make it too complicated I often just do one row of shots in portrait orientation. If you do three shots with some overlap you can end up with a final image that retains the normal 35mm aspect ratio. For convenience I think you will like to have the ultra wide angle.

The Tokina 11-20mm, or if you want Nikon then their 10-24mm.
There is also the option to rent, last time I was in Yellowstone I ran into someone that had rented the Nikon 14-24mm for that trip.
 
Fine. So it's not perspective. I'm pretty sure I stated in my previous post that I didn't know what to call it. And, from the posts so far, it doesn't seem like you're understanding what I want. So idk what to do at this point.

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It's called Field of View, or Angle of View.
 
Fine. So it's not perspective. I'm pretty sure I stated in my previous post that I didn't know what to call it. And, from the posts so far, it doesn't seem like you're understanding what I want. So idk what to do at this point.

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It's called Field of View, or Angle of View.
So you do get me? Larger FOV is what I'm looking for. Is that right?

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I've never used the Nikon. The Tokina is nice and gets good reviews. KEH has a used one for $339 rated Ex+ condition.
KEH? I get most of my stuff from Amazon and have never bought anything used before. Paranoid of getting defective items. I'll take a look though. Thanks.

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I have bought 2 refurbished bodies (5100, 7100), and several lenses used and have never had an issue. As long as you buy from a reputable seller like Adorama, Cameta, B&H or KEH... all allow returns if you're not happy. Just make sure you're buying the model you want as most lenses have several versions. Like jsecord said there are a lot of people that went to full frame and sold their crop frame lenses so why pay a premium for new? It's an expensive hobby, save where you can.
 
Yea, to get the whole river in at Horseshoe Bend you need to have the field-of-view of a lens in the 11mm to 12mm range on a crop body. Nice is at sunset and using a variable ND filter, but I usually like the color of the rocks when the sun is hitting them and that would be in the morning.

What I often do with static subjects like this when I need to cover a wider area than what my lens will do is to take multiple shots and stitch them together. To not make it too complicated I often just do one row of shots in portrait orientation. If you do three shots with some overlap you can end up with a final image that retains the normal 35mm aspect ratio. For convenience I think you will like to have the ultra wide angle.

The Tokina 11-20mm, or if you want Nikon then their 10-24mm.
There is also the option to rent, last time I was in Yellowstone I ran into someone that had rented the Nikon 14-24mm for that trip.
Would taking a panorama still work without a tripod? Because, at the time, I didn't have one. And right now I still don't have one. I just borrow my brother's Benro monopod.

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Not too well, at least not from my experience. You need to keep the nodal point of the lens in the exact same spot when taking you series of photos to stitch together. There may be some that can do it by hand but I can't. That is why I always use a tripod. By keeping the nodal point centered over the tripod it makes stitching the photos together much easier. As sparky indicated in an earlier post, if you overlap you shots a bit it will make creating the panorama easier.

Photo Stitching Digital Panoramas
 
Not too well, at least not from my experience. You need to keep the nodal point of the lens in the exact same spot when taking you series of photos to stitch together. There may be some that can do it by hand but I can't. That is why I always use a tripod. By keeping the nodal point centered over the tripod it makes stitching the photos together much easier. As sparky indicated in an earlier post, if you overlap you shots a bit it will make creating the panorama easier.

Photo Stitching Digital Panoramas

you'd also need a nodal rail or something similar if you have any sort of foreground to avoid parralax error. Stitching landscape images can be much more difficult than you know, just shooting wide. I would consider myself fairly advanced regarding post processing and I still have a hard time blending pano images sometimes if there is cloud movement, waves, etc.
 
9 miles of semantic masturbation by phoney baloney experts.
Yes,if you want to increase your field of view,buy the Tokina.
It's a nice lens.
 
Not too well, at least not from my experience. You need to keep the nodal point of the lens in the exact same spot when taking you series of photos to stitch together. There may be some that can do it by hand but I can't. That is why I always use a tripod. By keeping the nodal point centered over the tripod it makes stitching the photos together much easier. As sparky indicated in an earlier post, if you overlap you shots a bit it will make creating the panorama easier.

Photo Stitching Digital Panoramas

you'd also need a nodal rail or something similar if you have any sort of foreground to avoid parralax error. Stitching landscape images can be much more difficult than you know, just shooting wide. I would consider myself fairly advanced regarding post processing and I still have a hard time blending pano images sometimes if there is cloud movement, waves, etc.
They are not hard to build. Not as convenient as a rail system but works just as well. Build a Panoramic Head For Perfect Panoramas - DIY Photography
 
I don't even know what a parallax error is or what a nodal point is and, yet, here I am reading about building a panoramic head. This should end well... *crosses fingers*
 
I've shot a few panos handheld. The trick is to allow yourself enough room to crop it and alter the distortions in post and try and get an as even as you can camera movement as you sweep round. Needless to say its worth spot metering in manual mode to set your exposure for the whole scene. But I've had much better results using a tripod though I've not got round to getting myself a rail for it yet.

Regarding the focal length issue, I've run into this problem myself paticularly when shooting mountains and subjects where size and scale is important to the shot. What it means for the final image is that you can loose impact with ultra wide angles as the background is often rendered smaller than it can be at more traditional wide angle lengths of 24mm and 35mm. I'll admit I've not got my head fully around it yet either.
 
I don't even know what a parallax error is or what a nodal point is and, yet, here I am reading about building a panoramic head. This should end well... *crosses fingers*

Which is exactly why I thought it was so dumb that so many were suggesting you just stitch panoramas instead of buying a wider lens.
 
I've shot a few panos handheld. The trick is to allow yourself enough room to crop it and alter the distortions in post and try and get an as even as you can camera movement as you sweep round. Needless to say its worth spot metering in manual mode to set your exposure for the whole scene. But I've had much better results using a tripod though I've not got round to getting myself a rail for it yet.

Regarding the focal length issue, I've run into this problem myself paticularly when shooting mountains and subjects where size and scale is important to the shot. What it means for the final image is that you can loose impact with ultra wide angles as the background is often rendered smaller than it can be at more traditional wide angle lengths of 24mm and 35mm. I'll admit I've not got my head fully around it yet either.
But since I'm going to be using this lens on a crop sensor, it'd actually be closer to 16-24mm. (If I did my math right.) That doesn't make it an ultra wide anymore, I think.

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But since I'm going to be using this lens on a crop sensor, it'd actually be closer to 16-24mm. (If I did my math right.) That doesn't make it an ultra wide anymore, I think.

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Are you talking about the 11-16 (or 11-20)? Because that lens is designed for crop sensors, so you wouldn't need to take the crop factor into account.
 

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