lens questions

I don't have the money to rent lenses. And I think I'm gonna get a Nikkor 12-24mm UWA. Even though they are extremely expensive I've read comparisons between that and a Sigma, Tokina, and Tamron UWA.
And can someone please help me with my zoom and micro situations.

Thanks Bifurcator.
 
BTW, here's yet another option. If you get the 18-200 zoom you can add a $50 wide attachment (conversion lens) that distorts allot and not have paid much for the "fisheye effect". It's much better quality than photoshop edits and you can frame the images in real-time. Then later you can decide whether you want a 10.5mm Nikkor or a 10mm Sigma or whatever.
 
I don't know yet. I have things to sell on eBay but I haven't actually gotten around to sell anything yet. When I have all the money gathered up I will decide. But until then I also want to know what micro lens to get. Now I also want a standard 50mm lens and I think I might ending up (in the future, of course) having both a UWA and a fisheye.
 
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Okay thanks. And can micro lenses serve the same purpose as a standard lens?
 
BTW, a close-up lens if it's good quality AC glass can convert any lens into a macro with almost no downside what-so-ever. The good (multi-element achromatic {AC}) ones are about $50 and the crappy (single element multi-coated only {MC}) ones are $30.
 
I don't really understand. So you buy a 30$ close up adaptor that you attach to on of your lenses to convert it into a macro? But then wouldn't the converted macro not act like a standard lens too? I think I'm better off getting a macro/micro instead of that for highest quality.
 
Just another thought -- on a crop sensor camera, there is a significant apparent difference between a 10 mm and a 12mm lens...
 
I don't really understand. So you buy a 30$ close up adaptor that you attach to on of your lenses to convert it into a macro? But then wouldn't the converted macro not act like a standard lens too? I think I'm better off getting a macro/micro instead of that for highest quality.


The quality will be nearly the same 99.999% Human eyes probably cannot detect the differences. But you've stumbled onto the one downside that does exist. It screws onto the filter threads and while in place the lens is limited to macro-only lengths, distances and DOF. So if you're using the lens rapidly between macro and long shots you have to screw and unscrew it (like you would a filter).

That's not a problem for me at all though YMMV.
 

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