Long Shutter versus Short Shutter for Night Time City Pics

[Cero21]

I was wondering what type of shutter speeds I should be using for night time city pics (skyline type stuff).

The P setting on my Olympus E510 sets the aperture wide (like F4) and shutter relativity short 4-5 sec.

Is it better to have longer shutter speeds (like around 30 sec) with the Aperture smaller (~F20) or a larger aperture with faster shutters? Which will provide sharper images?

Here is an example of what I've been shooting.

 

[photoman720]

most likely the larger aperature because it makes more things in focused.

 

[Cero21]

most likely the larger aperature because it makes more things in focused.

Larger aperture number (smaller opening) or larger aperture?

 

[nist7]

Smaller aperture opening (ie, larger f/stop number) translates to a greater depth of field than a larger aperture opening (ie, smaller f/stop number).

 

[Iron Flatline]

I assume you're using a tripod.

Use a small aperture, something around or above f/11, you can even go f/16 or f/22. You'll need a longer exposure obviously. It will also give you nice stars around the light sources.

Beware though - any light coming onto the lens at really acute angles will give you flare, so take off all filters, use the lens hood, and make do with f/11 or f/16 even though you could shoot at f/22 (all as examples.) Canon straps also have a little rubber thingy with which to shut the viewfinder, lest light creep in through there during long exposures. I have found it to be good enough ensuring that no light falls on it from behind, I don't use the rubber thingy.

Also, bright lights can be a harsh over-exposure, you'll have to experiment to see what works best.

If you don't have a remote release, set your camera's auto timer to a short time (2 seconds, for instance) so you can compose your shot, trigger the shutter, and then have those couple of seconds to avoid your supression motion turning into camera shake.

 

[jon_k]

have a little rubber thingy with which to shut the viewfinder, lest light creep in through there during long exposures. I have found it to be good enough ensuring that no light falls on it from behind, I don't use the rubber thingy.

Is this a problem with your type of camera or is this an issue with all SLR's? I've never heard of covering the viewfinder. I can see how a light leak is possible on certain cameras though.

 

[Mike_E]

That would be all slrs. It doesn't happen often but if the photo is important to you... .

Iron has it right, the higher f number is the way to go for night time landscapes.

As to the question of noise, it's not a factor (over and above the norm) until you get to insanely long exposures.

 

[Garbz]

Depending on what I'm going for (blurring water often) I will pick the highest aperture without suffering from diffraction. That's about f/11 on my lenses. At f/16 is start loosing sharpness so the extra depth of field is a waste. My lens is only just acceptable at f/22.

 

[Cero21]

Thanks for the comments everyone. I did notice with a higher F number the lights had a nice star affect, but also a blue hue (@ F9). I now know that is lens flare. So I'm going to go with the highest F number without getting that flare.

 

[Iron Flatline]

Thanks for the comments everyone. I did notice with a higher F number the lights had a nice star affect, but also a blue hue (@ F9). I now know that is lens flare. So I'm going to go with the highest F number without getting that flare.

Can you post that image? It doesn't have to be lens flare. If it's blue throughout it could be something like your auto white balance being tricked, which is desperately trying to balance things to a neutral gray. Are you shooting RAW or JPG? In this case RAW is really helpful, so you can adjust things like color temperature.

 

[Nikon Norm]

Also try shooting while the sky looks blue, just as the sun has gone below the horizon, you will still get a night time look, but some nice detail/color in the sky.

 

[ksmattfish]

Is this a problem with your type of camera or is this an issue with all SLR's? I've never heard of covering the viewfinder. I can see how a light leak is possible on certain cameras though.

The problem isn't that light may leak to the sensor, it's that light may leak to the meter. So if the camera has a TTL meter/viewfinder (like all SLRs/DSLRs), and is in any sort of auto mode, and light enters the viewfinder, the camera may choose the wrong exposure. It's not a problem in manual exposure mode, bulb, etc....

 

[ksmattfish]

Is it better to have longer shutter speeds (like around 30 sec) with the Aperture smaller (~F20) or a larger aperture with faster shutters? Which will provide sharper images?

An aperture setting somewhere in the middle of your lens' aperture range will probably be the sharpest. Aperture diffraction (distortion caused by a small sized aperture) can become an issue as you close the aperture down, particularly with smaller formats (almost all digital cameras). How apparent the effects of aperture diffraction are also depend on how large you will display the photo, veiwing distance, etc....

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

On the other hand, because of your smaller sensor/shorter focal lengths you will get a lot of DOF even in middle of the range apertures. Check out a DOF calculator such as

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

If you are using something like a 30mm lens at f/11 the hyperfocal distance (if you don't know what that means google it) is about 17 feet. If you focus your camera at 17 feet then everything from 9 feet to infinity should be in focus (according to the math, individual opinions of "in focus" must be considered).

When I'm using an APS-C sized sensor camera I try to avoid using an aperture smaller (bigger f/#) than f/11ish, and so far it's been pretty easy.

Understand the issues that affect depth of field (mainly focal length, focusing distance, and aperture), and then close the aperture down to get the DOF you need, without going too much beyond.

 

[Alex_B]

The problem isn't that light may leak to the sensor, it's that light may leak to the meter.

exactly. that is why I only cover my viewfinder for metering (my finger does the job then ).

never had any lens flare problems at night either which are particular to the fact the shot is taken at night. existing lens flare might become more obvious though, since night images often have extreme contrast with strong highlights.