Manual Focus

[SituationNormal]

So I'm really trying to break away from auto settings to include auto-focus. But what I am finding is that all too often when I open the picture on my computer that the images are out of focus. The images look to be in-focus while either looking through the eye-piece or at the screen, but ultimately I end up with a lot of out of focus images.

So what are your techniques to get the picture in-focus prior to snapping the shot?

 

[tirediron]

Manual exposure is fine, but modern DSLRs and lenses are meant to auto-focus, and they do it very well, as long as you make sure that you have focusing point in the right place. Recommendation: Let auto-focus do its job.

 

[PatrickJamesYu]

With some lenses/cameras a small indicator that will let you know when a selected focus point is in focus.

Other than that, you just have to keep practicing and train your eyes

 

[SituationNormal]

Thanks for the replies!

I was ensuring that focal point was always where it needed to be while using auto. I guess that I just figured that in order to be in complete control of the camera, that I needed to do everythig in manual. I'll go back to auto-focus then.

 

[Tony S]

Let the auto focus work for you, almost all the time it will be more accurate than you will be, one noted exception may be while doing macro photography.

Find a good contrasty subject, le the auto focus lock on it. Now set your diopter adjustment on the eyepiece so that what you are looking at is as sharp as you can tell. This will help with getting your manual focus right.

 

[clanthar]

...I guess that I just figured that in order to be in complete control of the camera, that I needed to do everythig in manual.

To achieve the best possible control learn to use your tools to best advantage. I've been a photographer for 40 years. When I started we were getting used to the idea that a camera might have a meter installed. My camera is set to P mode and auto-focus is on. I am in complete control of my camera.

Joe

 

[Derrel]

Most AF lenses have VERY hair-trigger focusing mechanisms in the Infinity to 3 meter range; often, just 10 to 30 degrees of movement of the focusing ring will move the focus point from Infinity to a fairly close distance, and if using manual focus, it is quite easy to have to focus turn out to be "Out" when you get the images on the computer...at closer distances, many AF lenses have a more-forgiving rate of manual focusing that allows a user to do okay work in manual focus, without that "damn it!!!" kinda' thing going on so often at the computer. As clanthar is saying, using auto focus is "being in control"--provided one knows HOW to use AF!!! Honestly, modern AF systems can find and lock focus pretty danged well, as long as the user is doing his or her part, and using the system well, and not doing something stupid, or using the system in a really bad, bad manner, or under the most extreme conditions.

 

[Big Mike]

Most cameras have a focus confirmation light. It's usually a green circle in the info bar, seen in the viewfinder. Whether in AF or MF, it will light up when focus is achieved...although, you may have to activate the camera (half press) before it will come on. Check you manual.

 

[Derrel]

Most camera have a focus confirmation light. It's usually a green circle in the info bar, seen in the viewfinder. Whether in AF or MF, it will light up when focus is achieved...although, you may have to activate the camera (half press) before it will come on. Check you manual.

This is a very gentle, courteous,polite suggestion being made by Big Mike, for you to Read The Fine Manual that is associated with your particular camera model. (grins!)

 

[enzodm]

Manual exposure is fine, but modern DSLRs and lenses are meant to auto-focus, and they do it very well, as long as you make sure that you have focusing point in the right place. Recommendation: Let auto-focus do its job.

"meant" in this case means that most dSLR do not have a viewfinder of sufficient precision for helping in manual focus. Depending on the camera you have, it could be based on a pentamirror instead of a pentaprism, thus resulting darker; it is smaller than in old SLR; the focusing screen is not showing effective depth of field, but something larger. Some cameras allow focusing screen substitution for making manual focus easier (I just did it, because I have a number of old manual lenses to play with).
On the other side, if you are using Liveview, to achieve good focus you have to use the maximum magnification it provides, not the plain 100% view. This might be useful if you do macro, and allows for good manual focus, of course on static subjects.
Although I spend part of my time manually focusing, I agree with others: manual focus is for when you cannot do otherwise.