caferacer73
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I recently got a Mamiya M645 1000s and 3 lenses (55, 80 & 150) for around $600. Great camera for starting out on medium format.
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So, based on the many suggestions you have received, you have a lot of options. All of the cameras recommended are good, so I recommend you consider the cost of a CLA (clean, lubricate, adjust) service for whatever camera you choose. A number of skilled technicians from companies such as Mamiya, Bronica, Hasselblad, etc. have established small operations to do this and you should check them out. Like any mechanism that has sat unused for a number of years, seals degrade, lubricants dry out, etc.
Good Luck and have fun!
I'd try to find the newest Bronica ETRSi kit available in the cleanest shape possible. These were often worked to near death by wedding shooters. A fair index of mileage is wear, especially around the two holes at the top of the body's back surface where the film back attached. Lots of scratches and paint wear around that area is the telltale of heavy use. Stay away from backs with 220 inserts--all but useless with 220 film(double 120 length)which is virtually dead. Try for a meter-less prism finder. Budget for a decent handheld incident light meter for whatever brand you choose. Metered finders for all these cameras were not wildly accurate. Waist level finders on 645 make shooting vertical pretty much impossible.
I'd avoid the now-ancient Mamiya 645 1000s. Service headaches and no film backs. Look into the newer Mamiya 645 Super/Pro/Pro TL.
I love the big Mamiya RB67 Pro S. It's not petite but some tend to over-emphasize its weight and heft. Good lenses with common focal lengths usually available in decent shape at fair prices. The system sold well for years, so you should have some choice.
Before you make the leap, do check-out brand-specific repair/service options as close to home as possible. That's why I stress getting the newest/best condition MF gear you can afford. Skip TLRs, old folders, and relics generally. The old "just get a CLA" advice is pretty much meaningless unless you can find brand repair specialists capable of reviving oldies.
I'd try to find the newest Bronica ETRSi kit available in the cleanest shape possible. These were often worked to near death by wedding shooters. A fair index of mileage is wear, especially around the two holes at the top of the body's back surface where the film back attached. Lots of scratches and paint wear around that area is the telltale of heavy use. Stay away from backs with 220 inserts--all but useless with 220 film(double 120 length)which is virtually dead. Try for a meter-less prism finder. Budget for a decent handheld incident light meter for whatever brand you choose. Metered finders for all these cameras were not wildly accurate. Waist level finders on 645 make shooting vertical pretty much impossible.
I'd avoid the now-ancient Mamiya 645 1000s. Service headaches and no film backs. Look into the newer Mamiya 645 Super/Pro/Pro TL.
I love the big Mamiya RB67 Pro S. It's not petite but some tend to over-emphasize its weight and heft. Good lenses with common focal lengths usually available in decent shape at fair prices. The system sold well for years, so you should have some choice.
Before you make the leap, do check-out brand-specific repair/service options as close to home as possible. That's why I stress getting the newest/best condition MF gear you can afford. Skip TLRs, old folders, and relics generally. The old "just get a CLA" advice is pretty much meaningless unless you can find brand repair specialists capable of reviving oldies.
So I actually went out today like what was suggested to try out and look at the cameras in question and also ask the local repair shop that most go to.
My thoughts are that the RB67 while a nice camera is a little too large and hefty for my intended uses, I held it today and found I do not like the weight.
I've seen both the Bronica ETRS and Mamiya 645 1000s in good shape, very clean for reasonable prices, around $350, the local repair shop says parts are available for both and both repair cost for both are about the same, so it's basically personal preference at that point from what I can tell.
So now it's the Bronica ETRS and the Mamiya 645 1000s, the Bronica brings changeable backs and the Mamiya brings 1/1000th of a second shutter speed.
Choices... choices....
I'd try to find the newest Bronica ETRSi kit available in the cleanest shape possible. These were often worked to near death by wedding shooters. A fair index of mileage is wear, especially around the two holes at the top of the body's back surface where the film back attached. Lots of scratches and paint wear around that area is the telltale of heavy use. Stay away from backs with 220 inserts--all but useless with 220 film(double 120 length)which is virtually dead. Try for a meter-less prism finder. Budget for a decent handheld incident light meter for whatever brand you choose. Metered finders for all these cameras were not wildly accurate. Waist level finders on 645 make shooting vertical pretty much impossible.
I'd avoid the now-ancient Mamiya 645 1000s. Service headaches and no film backs. Look into the newer Mamiya 645 Super/Pro/Pro TL.
I love the big Mamiya RB67 Pro S. It's not petite but some tend to over-emphasize its weight and heft. Good lenses with common focal lengths usually available in decent shape at fair prices. The system sold well for years, so you should have some choice.
Before you make the leap, do check-out brand-specific repair/service options as close to home as possible. That's why I stress getting the newest/best condition MF gear you can afford. Skip TLRs, old folders, and relics generally. The old "just get a CLA" advice is pretty much meaningless unless you can find brand repair specialists capable of reviving oldies.
So I actually went out today like what was suggested to try out and look at the cameras in question and also ask the local repair shop that most go to.
My thoughts are that the RB67 while a nice camera is a little too large and hefty for my intended uses, I held it today and found I do not like the weight.
I've seen both the Bronica ETRS and Mamiya 645 1000s in good shape, very clean for reasonable prices, around $350, the local repair shop says parts are available for both and both repair cost for both are about the same, so it's basically personal preference at that point from what I can tell.
So now it's the Bronica ETRS and the Mamiya 645 1000s, the Bronica brings changeable backs and the Mamiya brings 1/1000th of a second shutter speed.
Choices... choices....
Good job.
I would go for the Bronica, for the interchangeable backs. That way you can switch between ISO-100 film and ISO-400 film easily, by just changing the backs. Or shoot B&W in one back and color in the 2nd back.
With the Mamiya, you would need a 2nd camera for the 2nd film type.
A 2nd back is cheaper than a 2nd camera. But with the 2nd camera, you do have a backup/spare camera.
I only had 2 instances where I needed to have 1/1000 sec shutter speed.
- When I was shooting Tri-X (ASA/ISO 400) in very bright sun, where I was at 1/1000 sec at f/16, maxing out both the shutter speed and aperture of my camera. If I could have easily switched to Plus-X (ASA/ISO 125), I would not have to max out my camera, and would not need 1/1000 sec. Today, my preferred film is a medium speed film, about ISO 100, specifically to avoid maxing out the camera, and to give me room to adjust my exposure.
- When shooting fast sports, and want to capture the fast action.
I'd try to find the newest Bronica ETRSi kit available in the cleanest shape possible. These were often worked to near death by wedding shooters. A fair index of mileage is wear, especially around the two holes at the top of the body's back surface where the film back attached. Lots of scratches and paint wear around that area is the telltale of heavy use. Stay away from backs with 220 inserts--all but useless with 220 film(double 120 length)which is virtually dead. Try for a meter-less prism finder. Budget for a decent handheld incident light meter for whatever brand you choose. Metered finders for all these cameras were not wildly accurate. Waist level finders on 645 make shooting vertical pretty much impossible.
I'd avoid the now-ancient Mamiya 645 1000s. Service headaches and no film backs. Look into the newer Mamiya 645 Super/Pro/Pro TL.
I love the big Mamiya RB67 Pro S. It's not petite but some tend to over-emphasize its weight and heft. Good lenses with common focal lengths usually available in decent shape at fair prices. The system sold well for years, so you should have some choice.
Before you make the leap, do check-out brand-specific repair/service options as close to home as possible. That's why I stress getting the newest/best condition MF gear you can afford. Skip TLRs, old folders, and relics generally. The old "just get a CLA" advice is pretty much meaningless unless you can find brand repair specialists capable of reviving oldies.
So I actually went out today like what was suggested to try out and look at the cameras in question and also ask the local repair shop that most go to.
My thoughts are that the RB67 while a nice camera is a little too large and hefty for my intended uses, I held it today and found I do not like the weight.
I've seen both the Bronica ETRS and Mamiya 645 1000s in good shape, very clean for reasonable prices, around $350, the local repair shop says parts are available for both and both repair cost for both are about the same, so it's basically personal preference at that point from what I can tell.
So now it's the Bronica ETRS and the Mamiya 645 1000s, the Bronica brings changeable backs and the Mamiya brings 1/1000th of a second shutter speed.
Choices... choices....
Good job.
I would go for the Bronica, for the interchangeable backs. That way you can switch between ISO-100 film and ISO-400 film easily, by just changing the backs. Or shoot B&W in one back and color in the 2nd back.
With the Mamiya, you would need a 2nd camera for the 2nd film type.
A 2nd back is cheaper than a 2nd camera. But with the 2nd camera, you do have a backup/spare camera.
I only had 2 instances where I needed to have 1/1000 sec shutter speed.
- When I was shooting Tri-X (ASA/ISO 400) in very bright sun, where I was at 1/1000 sec at f/16, maxing out both the shutter speed and aperture of my camera. If I could have easily switched to Plus-X (ASA/ISO 125), I would not have to max out my camera, and would not need 1/1000 sec. Today, my preferred film is a medium speed film, about ISO 100, specifically to avoid maxing out the camera, and to give me room to adjust my exposure.
- When shooting fast sports, and want to capture the fast action.
A thought just came to mind, you could use a neutral density filter to reduce shutter speeds if you are using to fast of a film...
Reading all the good things about the Bronica is making me want one now...
I'm not regretting getting the Mamiya M645, just getting caught up in wanting another good MF camera.
Control your GAS, or you will go broke.
I suggest you plan and stagger; example 35mm this year/2018, MF next year/2019, LF the year after 2020.
Or a body and ONE lens for 35mm and MF in 2018/2019, a 2nd lens in 2019/2020. Then LF in 2020.
Warning: LF is a whole different world. You likely can't use your current tripod, and have to upgrade to a heavier tripod. Dealing with film holders with only 2 shots per holder is very different than roll film. And learning to focus under a dark cloth can be difficult. And you need to determine how you will get your LF film processed (send it out and where, or DiY).