Monitor Calibration via Spyder 3 "Studio Match" - It's not matching. Suggestions?

[Drew1992]

I purchased the Spyder 3 Elite to calibrate my laptop and an LCD Screen that I am attempting to use for my editing purposes. I used the "Studio Match" feature via Spyder 3 and after calibrating and re-callibrating a few times, I still can't quite get an exact match. Is this normal? Any suggestions? What have you experienced? How did you get an exact match? I want to edit asap and I'm hesitant about editing with the LCD screen when the color is just a tiny bit off. Suggestions anyone? Thanks!

By the way, you may have seen my previous post about calibration and which hardware/software to buy. I posted a new thread to be more specific about my current issues/questions regarding calibration. Sorry for any confusion!

 

[Big Mike]

When you say it doesn't match...what are you comparing it to? The two screens to each other or prints etc?

Laptop screens are notoriously bad for calibration. Firstly, it's a screen on a hinge, so your viewing angle may change fairly often, and the viewing angle will very likely change how the screen looks to you (even if it is properly calibrated).

The real test of calibration, should be final products (usually prints). So if you can edit your images and have them printed off looking how you want them, then you are OK. If you use your own printer, you may want/need a printer calibration device as well...but if you use a lab, they should obviously be calibrated and you should be able to get their ICC profile and then be able to soft proof your images.

 

[Drew1992]

Hi Big Mike,
Thanks for the quick response!
I am comparing the 2 screens to eachother. And, yes, I now realize that a laptop screen isn't the greatest way to edit(after I just purchased it, of course) due to the changing angle, etc. Thus, the reason that I want to use another display to edit with. The LCD screen color seems not as warm, color a bit cooler than the laptop, and although I have tried changing the LCD screen's settings and calibrated with Spyder 3, it still doesn't seem right. It also looks a tiny bit fuzzy(noise?) than the laptop screen.
I am regretting my choice of a laptop and wishing that I would have either went with a PC with a large montior or a desktop Mac. I am an amateur aspiring to become professional. I should have done more homework before buying.
I haven't went on to the next step and calibrated my printer. I am assuming that I will need a different type of software/hardware to accomplish that(other than the Spyder 3 Elite). Isn't it great how much documentation/instructions that you actually receive with your Spyder 3 purchase? (Sarcasm) It's ridiculous!
Thanks again for your input and I appreciate your quick reply.

 

[Big Mike]

Ideally, yes...you would want all your screens to be calibrated and matching...but since it doesn't look like that is going to work, just use your LCD screen (in a consistent location) when photo editing. You can still pack up your laptop and take it with you, just don't do any color/tone critical edits on it.

Rather than printing your own photos, I'd suggest using a good lab. If you do your research before hand , you would probably find that using a good lab isn't much more expensive than printing yourself. Besides the cost of the printer, it's the price of the ink and good quality paper that really adds up. Then you have to consider the price & time it takes to calibrate it and keep it running in that condition. It's not necessary to be a printing expert to be a successful photographer. Yes, some are...but it's perfectly OK to let the printing experts at the lab do their job. And prices are very competitive these days.

Many good (pro) labs will work with you on color calibration. They will do some test prints, which can help you to check how well your calibration matches their output...and if there is a difference, they may help to walk you through the problem.

Lastly, if you really want to lick this problem...do a bit more research and get a better screen. Most flat panel screens are TN (twisted numatic). They work well for general computing, movies, games etc....but they aren't ideal for calibration. There are other types that are better (IPS for example), so that's something to look up.

 

[Drew1992]

Thanks Big Mike!
You have helped me more than you know!
I did not realize there was a big difference between LCD Screens. That is very helpful to me as I do plan to "lick the problem" and will take your advice and go get a better LCD screen. I actually stole this LCD screen (upon discovering that my laptop wasn't working for me during editing) from my kids' room "temporarily" anyway! But, until then, I'll use the LCD as you have suggested for editing.

Your info on good pro labs is helpful also. I hadn't actually planned to do any of my own printing, but thought I might occasionally print some of my "not so important" images to post on the refridgerator, give to friends, etc and thought it would be nice if they matched my PC in color, etc.. So, not needing to calibrate it(per your advice) will be one less thing for me to do! Also, I didn't realize that some of the good pro labs would work with me on color calibration. That's great!

Thanks for your friendly advice and for your patience with my ignorance I have so much to learn...