more lens questions

Err. I think I'm extra confused now.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=search&Q=

A list of Canon lens on B&H. There are two "Zoom Telephoto EF 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 III USM Autofocus Lens".
One costs $179.95 and the other is $189.95... Why the price difference? Are they not the exact same?

What's the difference between 'Zoom Telephoto' and 'Zoom Normal-Telephoto'?
Also... I dont quite understand what the whole 'f/4.0-5.6' means.

Thanx

EDIT: Also.. would these lens work on my film Rebel 2000?
EDIT AGAIN: What does EF and AF stand for?
 
A list of Canon lens on B&H. There are two "Zoom Telephoto EF 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 III USM Autofocus Lens".
One costs $179.95 and the other is $189.95... Why the price difference? Are they not the exact same?

Imported and, er, non-imported

Also... I dont quite understand what the whole 'f/4.0-5.6' means.

Max aperture of f/4 at the short end of the zoom (75mm) and f/5.6 by the long end (the 300mm).
 
That's right. There are two 'versions' of a lot of things at B&H. The more expensive one has been imported by Canon USA and comes with a warranty in the US (and Canada I guess). The cheaper one is 'Grey Market'...it's basically the same piece of equipment...it's just been imported differently. This may affect the warranty...but I think that B&H offers their own warranty...so you may still be covered. There is plenty of info about this...just Google it.

Max aperture of f/4 at the short end of the zoom (75mm) and f/5.6 by the long end (the 300mm).
Again, that's correct. Every lens has a maximum aperture, represented by an 'F number'. Lower numbers are bigger apertures...and bigger is better. Many zoom lenses have a variable maximum aperture...which is listed in the name of the lens. In this case, the maximum is F4 at the short end of the zoom and F5.6 at the long end. F5.6 isn't very big at all...which makes it hard to get usable shutter speeds in challenging light. But at least the lens is small and light. You can get a 300mm F2.8 lens...but it's huge and costs an arm and two legs.
 
Dont know if you can get them over there, but I use a Tamron AF 70-300mm f4 - 5.6 LD and this is a great lens too

Also Macro 1:2

Steve
 
I have that one too. Produces decent images but the limitations of a max aperture of f/5.6 do become apparent fairly quickly when trying to shoot moving subjects in less that bright light, especially since you have to stop down to at least f/8 to get the most out of the lens. Based on that I don't think there is any way you could successfully use it with a teleconverter and be happy with the results. My guess is the same goes for the Canon and any similar lens. In general I believe the constant f/4 lenses tend to be pretty good even wide-open, though again add a teleconverter and the ability to capture action could be limited. But I think you would want at least something of that quality (and unfortunately cost) if using a TC.
 
So.. even though my cameras aperature goes from 4.0-27 I would not be able to use most of them because the lens will only work up to 5.6..???
I'm confuzzled!!!

I've decided on the Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD. I picked the Di because from what I understand it will prevent vignetting.... (is this right?) or something about the light and the corners.
However, what if I want vignetting? Would a lens hood create this.

Uh.. so many questions...
Thank you all for being so great at answering all these amateur questions.:hug::
I'm sure they've all been asked a zillion times.
 
So.. even though my cameras aperature goes from 4.0-27 I would not be able to use most of them because the lens will only work up to 5.6..???
I'm confuzzled!!!

The aperture is physically located in the lens of an SLR, not in the camera body. So, the max and min aperture are determined by your lens.

I've decided on the Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD. I picked the Di because from what I understand it will prevent vignetting.... (is this right?) or something about the light and the corners.
However, what if I want vignetting? Would a lens hood create this.

You won't get vignetting with the Tamron 70-300 on the XTi. If you tried to use that lens on a camera with a full sized sensor, then you'll get vignetting. I can't recall off-hand if the lenses designed for small sensors even fit on the cameras with full-sized sensors though. But in general, you don't want vignetting. That happens when you put a lens designed for a small sensor on a camera with a full sized sensor, and the image that comes thru the lens doesn't fully cover the large sensor, so the edges and corners are blackened out.

A lens hood prevents flare and other anomalies from light entering the lens at a sharp angle, so that's totally separate. I think the Tamron comes with a lens hood, which is good, because you'll want to use it when the sun is bright.

Thank you all for being so great at answering all these amateur questions.

I hope you like your camera! I think you will. The Tamron lens is rated very high. I'm borrowing a friend's now, and will either buy this one or Canon's 70-300 with IS. I'm kind of leaning towards the Canon, I kind of let the other users talk me into it... not that it took much arm twisting. :)
 
You won't get vignetting with the Tamron 70-300 on the XTi. If you tried to use that lens on a camera with a full sized sensor, then you'll get vignetting.

So.. would this lens work on my Rebel 2000 35mm? I know nothing of these sensors you speak of so i dont know if mines small... medium.. big.. *shrugs*
(well i know OF them.. but thats it).

I imagine the Canon lens is quite a bit more and I'm on a budget and didn't think the Tamron was too crazy expensive.

If I did want vignetting what kind of lens would I need?
 
Your Rebel 2000 has no sensor, each image is captured on a 35x24mm area of film as you are aware. The digitals of course do have a sensor and in comparison with 35mm film, a 35x24mm is considered "full frame", other Canon sensors are 1.3x or 1.6x smaller than this. The Rebel XTi you are considering has a sensor 1.6x smaller.

To answer the last question, yes if you buy the lens with a Canon EF mount it will work on your Rebel.

sothoth, vignetting does occur as you described but that's a specific cause; vignetting is also a more general effect which can indeed also be produced by a lens hood or filter that extends too far. neea, if you do want vignetting then with digital you could just do it in Photoshop; with film just try playing around with the lens hood and pieces of card etc.

As for aperture, the f/4-5.6 does not mean you can only use f/4 to f/5.6. It means that your maximum aperture is f/4 at the short end of the lens and f/5.6 at the long end of the lens. You can still shoot at f/8, f/22, whatever, as long as it is a smaller aperture (indicated by a higher f-number) than those. So if you are shooting at 70mm, you can shoot at f/4 to f/22 but not say f/2.8, while at 300mm you can shoot at f/5.6 to f/22 but not f/4. Just try to remember that a larger aperture is indicated by a smaller f-number (and vice-versa) and it should start to make sense.

Oh and as pointed out your camera's aperture does not go from f/4 to f/27. Your camera has no aperture; that is in each lens. Depending on the lens that could mean available apertures of f/1.4-f/22, f/3.5-f/32 etc.
 
If you want vignetting...I suggest doing it after the fact, with software. However, it's easy to do in-camera by holding up a card or something, with a hole, in front of the lens.
 
Wow. I'm starting to get it.
Thank you all for all your help. You guys are so awesome!!!

Yes vignetting would be easier to do in photoshop I'm sure but as I've said a few times now I plan to have my own darkroom and shoot mostly film again.
Call me old fashioned but I still believe that film is more 'pure'.

Thanx again for taking the time to teach my little brain.
 

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