Need Advice..

[TamiAz]

I'm not looking for c&c on this picture because I know it sucks..I need some advice. I'm working on a 52 week photo challenge and this weeks theme is life. I wanted to do something different then just a picture of my family. I came up with this idea of taking a picture of pictures of all the people important in my life. Well, it's not quite working out like I thought. I like my idea, I just don't know how to shoot it effectively. Can anyone give me some suggestions on how I can shoot this picture???

 

[PictureBox]

Scan your photos into the computer; make a collage.

Or

Do a panorama and put the pictures somwhere else other than on top of a blanket

 

[TamiAz]

Scan your photos into the computer; make a collage.

Or

Do a panorama and put the pictures somwhere else other than on top of a blanket

Thank you...I'm a newb and I don't know how to do a panorama. I actually want to use the pictures in the frame, but I'm not sure how to shoot it. I had this thought of having my life laid out before me and the pictures represent that.

 

[BlackSheep]

Put the photos on a shelf or fireplace mantle, there's no emotional connection to them when the photos aren't shown as part of your home (i.e. life).

 

[PictureBox]

Thank you...I'm a newb and I don't know how to do a panorama. I actually want to use the pictures in the frame, but I'm not sure how to shoot it. I had this thought of having my life laid out before me and the pictures represent that.

Me either but there are tons of tutorials out there to help

 

[tirediron]

Thank you...I'm a newb and I don't know how to do a panorama. I actually want to use the pictures in the frame, but I'm not sure how to shoot it. I had this thought of having my life laid out before me and the pictures represent that.

Me either but there are tons of tutorials out there to help

John's basic 'How-to' guide to Panoramas...

1. In order to get a good pano, your camera has to be level, and has to rotate around the nodal point. This the point at which the image inverts. For practical purposes, with most lenses, using the sensor plane will work fine. What this means is that you have to shoot from a tripod for best results.

Therefore, put your camera on your tripod and level it. Even though my tripod legs and head both have levels built-in, I carry a small dollar-store spirit level in my camera bag to make sure everything is as close to level as I can get it.

2. Once I'm satisfied that everything is level and square and my tripod is locked (except for the rotating axis) where I want it, it's time to work on the exposure. Another important factor is to NEVER SHOOT PANOS IN AUTO! Set your camera to a manual or semi-manual mode (I use full manual, but either shutter or apeture priority will work as well).

Determine the range of your pano (eg the left and right limits) and then go through and meter the different areas. Find out what the camera is recommending as maximum and minimum exposure, and when you've done this for the full range of the image, then average the settings. Don't change these settings; yes some will likely be slightly under exposed, and some slightly over, but deal with it in post.

3. Now you're ready to start shooting. I always start at the left-hand end of the intended pano and work right, simply so that the images are in the correct order when they're on my computer, but that's up to you. Expose the first image, and choose a landmark about 2/3 of the way to the right-hand side of the frame. Now, being careful to ensure that you don't upset your level, move your camera so that the left-hand edge of the frame lines up on the land mark you just chose. Ideally you want about a 30-35% (or 1/3) overlap between each image. Continue shooting in this manner until you have the whole sequence captured.

4. Download and stitch using your favorite software.

A few tips: With respect to the issue of exposure: If there is an extreme dynamic range within the pano, (say bright sun to deep shade) I will often bracket each image 1/3 stop on each side, so that for every image used in the pano, you actually expose three. This gives you a bit of latitude in terms of trying to produce an image with a pleasing and realistic dynamic range, but be warned, it often looks hokey.

One of the most important tools you can have for taking panos (aside from a good tripod) are filters. There are two types, one is the circular polarizer (CPOL)for enhancing colours and deepening the blue in sky and the other is graduated neutral density(G-ND); these help to prevent blown skies and preserve detail on the ground. When using a CPOL, it's important to remember not to change it's setting through the course of the pano either. Find the optimum setting and use it at that setting for the whole image. Likewise with your G-ND; don't change their position or intensity.​

 

[PictureBox]

Thank you...I'm a newb and I don't know how to do a panorama. I actually want to use the pictures in the frame, but I'm not sure how to shoot it. I had this thought of having my life laid out before me and the pictures represent that.

Me either but there are tons of tutorials out there to help

John's basic 'How-to' guide to Panoramas...

1. In order to get a good pano, your camera has to be level, and has to rotate around the nodal point. This the point at which the image inverts. For practical purposes, with most lenses, using the sensor plane will work fine. What this means is that you have to shoot from a tripod for best results.

Therefore, put your camera on your tripod and level it. Even though my tripod legs and head both have levels built-in, I carry a small dollar-store spirit level in my camera bag to make sure everything is as close to level as I can get it.

2. Once I'm satisfied that everything is level and square and my tripod is locked (except for the rotating axis) where I want it, it's time to work on the exposure. Another important factor is to NEVER SHOOT PANOS IN AUTO! Set your camera to a manual or semi-manual mode (I use full manual, but either shutter or apeture priority will work as well).

Determine the range of your pano (eg the left and right limits) and then go through and meter the different areas. Find out what the camera is recommending as maximum and minimum exposure, and when you've done this for the full range of the image, then average the settings. Don't change these settings; yes some will likely be slightly under exposed, and some slightly over, but deal with it in post.

3. Now you're ready to start shooting. I always start at the left-hand end of the intended pano and work right, simply so that the images are in the correct order when they're on my computer, but that's up to you. Expose the first image, and choose a landmark about 2/3 of the way to the right-hand side of the frame. Now, being careful to ensure that you don't upset your level, move your camera so that the left-hand edge of the frame lines up on the land mark you just chose. Ideally you want about a 30-35% (or 1/3) overlap between each image. Continue shooting in this manner until you have the whole sequence captured.

4. Download and stitch using your favorite software.

A few tips: With respect to the issue of exposure: If there is an extreme dynamic range within the pano, (say bright sun to deep shade) I will often bracket each image 1/3 stop on each side, so that for every image used in the pano, you actually expose three. This gives you a bit of latitude in terms of trying to produce an image with a pleasing and realistic dynamic range, but be warned, it often looks hokey.

One of the most important tools you can have for taking panos (aside from a good tripod) are filters. There are two types, one is the circular polarizer (CPOL)for enhancing colours and deepening the blue in sky and the other is graduated neutral density(G-ND); these help to prevent blown skies and preserve detail on the ground. When using a CPOL, it's important to remember not to change it's setting through the course of the pano either. Find the optimum setting and use it at that setting for the whole image. Likewise with your G-ND; don't change their position or intensity.​

No need for tutorials when you have tirediron around!

Awesome info.

 

[Ms.Nash]

I would stand them up keeping whatever background you use very neutral then placing them at various depths - even if some of the pics are overlapping a bit - and shoot with the widest angle you have stopped down so that you get everything in focus OR another thought that just came to mind is having a family photo be the center focal point while the other pics are staggered in behind and your aperture is more wide open to blur those other pics out more???

Happy shooting!

 

[KenC]

However you do this, use a polarizing filter to minimize reflections from the print surfaces and glass. These are decreasing the contrast and color saturation. One thing you might consider is using loose prints instead of framed ones. Everyone has a box of old photos that they take out once in a while for nostalgia. If you spread out and overlap the photos you can eliminate the background entirely, and the resulting photo will bring to mind this particular activity.