Need help choosing a lens for d7100, thanks:).

[kalliela]

Thanks for that, I heard that about the Sigma, that CA thing, strange!

 

[Tailgunner]

These photos was taken in a semi dark hallway without halls lights or flash using my D7100 and 28-70mm 2.8 and 18-200mm 4.0. I was comparing High ISO settings on the D7100 but hopefully they will show you the ability of the D7100 w/28-70mm 2.8.

D7100/18-200mm 4.0/3200ISO



D7100/28-70mm 2.8/3200ISO

 

[KmH]

Image stabilization should usually be turned off, even when the camera/lens is being used had-held.

VR/IS/OS is basically useless when shutter speed is quicker than 1/500, and is not the universal panacea many make it out to be.

Good camera holding technique is all that is needed for focal lengths up to 200 mm, unless shutter speed needs to be significantly below 1/the focal length of the lens.
Da Grip « Joe McNally's Blog

Nikon VR explained
The first and most important rule of VR is this: never turn VR on unless it's actually needed.
Rule #2: VR should normally be off if your shutter speed is over 1/500.

 

[PaulWog]

Image stabilization should usually be turned off, even when the camera/lens is being used had-held.

VR/IS/OS is basically useless when shutter speed is quicker than 1/500, and is not the universal panacea many make it out to be.

Good camera holding technique is all that is needed for focal lengths up to 200 mm, unless shutter speed needs to be significantly below 1/the focal length of the lens.
Da Grip « Joe McNally's Blog

Nikon VR explained
The first and most important rule of VR is this: never turn VR on unless it's actually needed.
Rule #2: VR should normally be off if your shutter speed is over 1/500.

Wouldn't this indicate VR would be useful? I could imagine him needing to shoot up to F8 for certain things, and he might end up dropping down to 1/25 of a second or even lower in a church at that aperture.

"This/these would be for shooting events inside a church, so I would need as much zoom as possible. Not wanting to use flash either as I need to be discreet and not interrupting anything."

 

[ScottMac]

In an indoor setting, and especially at a wedding, you probably want to isolate your subjects more than normal with a relatively short depth-of-field. This implies fast lenses with an aperture of f2.8 or faster. The low-light ability of the D7100 is OK, but it is not great when compared to FX (D600/D700/D800/D4) and as such, you cannot push you ISO up too far without causing artifacts (noise). Given that you have 24mp to play with, I would suggest that you rather look at fast primes, like the 35mm f1.8, 50mm f1.4/1.8 and the 85mm f1.4 and crop your pictures after the fact, rather than any zoom at f2.8, potentially causing noise if your ISO is pushed too far in low light. Photography is all about capturing the light and if there is insufficient light for the equipment at hand, you may have a problem.

While f2.8 lenses may be sufficient for most situations, how will you tell the bridal couple that your equipment was just not capable in capturing the scenes after the fact.

 

[kalliela]

Wow guys, you have all been most helpful! Those pics up there, the colors look different in each, that can happen from lens to lens, no? I do notice that the edges are blurry in both pics, probably from having the f/stop wide open? So, the VR should be turned off? That doesn't make sense, interesting! I did shoot some from the back of the room with that Nifty 50 and they turned out not so nifty. Not sure why but they were out of focus. I think camera shake may have played a part, idk. Maybe I am not holding that big Nikon right. But the ones from the back of the room with that looked crappy. I would like more zoom. I will go to that church and take some measurements to see how much zoom I would need. I may look into that 85 1.8 and the 35 1.8. Definitely an option. I am thinking of getting the 24-85mm f/2.8-4D IF, since one can still buy it new on the Nikon website. It's like 750 bucks. Is it true that 80-200 was made in 1986? Oldie! Though I am sure not all of them are that old, depending on which one you'd buy. Also, according to Ken Rockwell, he said not to bother using the 80-200 on a DX body due to that it won't autofocus on the DX bodies, is that true? Or is he full of bologna? So far, I am leaning towards getting the 80-200 and the 24-85. I'd like to get the later new from the Nikon site..but may be over budget.

I have a question? I've heard of pump focus, what is that? Is that on the 80-200? I guess the d7100 must have the screwdriver connection for this lens? Yes? Also, one last question, I am all new to auto settings, I shot with an all manual film cam before. For these indoor events, should I use shutter priority you think? Like SP for the zoom and AP for the portrait type shots?

Thanks again guys!!!!

 

[KmH]

There is a limit to how fast the VR mechanism can respond to camera movement, which is why it usually is best turned off, particularly if the shutter speed is 1/500 or faster.

Yes, the D7100 has an auto focus motor and screw-drive in it that moves the AF 80-200 f/2.8 and AF 24-85 f/2.8-4 focus mechanism in the lens.
Other wise i would not have recommended those 2 lenses.

The Nikon D40, D40x, D90, D3000, D3100, D3200, D5000, D5100, D5200 do not have an auto focus motor and screw-drive in them so they can be 'compact' DSLRs.

I would recommend using aperture priority so the depth-of-field stay more constant.
But, you would still need to keep an eye in the viewfinder what shutter speed the camera is selecting.
To that end, it is also a good idea to set ISO to Auto and reconfigure your viewfinder so it displays ISO instead of how many shots the memory card can hold (see page 239 - d3: ISO and Adjustment of your D7100 users manual)

 

[kalliela]

Thanks again for all your help!!!

 

[Tailgunner]

Wow guys, you have all been most helpful! Those pics up there, the colors look different in each, that can happen from lens to lens, no? I do notice that the edges are blurry in both pics, probably from having the f/stop wide open? So, the VR should be turned off? That doesn't make sense, interesting! I did shoot some from the back of the room with that Nifty 50 and they turned out not so nifty. Not sure why but they were out of focus. I think camera shake may have played a part, idk. Maybe I am not holding that big Nikon right. But the ones from the back of the room with that looked crappy. I would like more zoom. I will go to that church and take some measurements to see how much zoom I would need. I may look into that 85 1.8 and the 35 1.8. Definitely an option. I am thinking of getting the 24-85mm f/2.8-4D IF, since one can still buy it new on the Nikon website. It's like 750 bucks. Is it true that 80-200 was made in 1986? Oldie! Though I am sure not all of them are that old, depending on which one you'd buy. Also, according to Ken Rockwell, he said not to bother using the 80-200 on a DX body due to that it won't autofocus on the DX bodies, is that true? Or is he full of bologna? So far, I am leaning towards getting the 80-200 and the 24-85. I'd like to get the later new from the Nikon site..but may be over budget.

I have a question? I've heard of pump focus, what is that? Is that on the 80-200? I guess the d7100 must have the screwdriver connection for this lens? Yes? Also, one last question, I am all new to auto settings, I shot with an all manual film cam before. For these indoor events, should I use shutter priority you think? Like SP for the zoom and AP for the portrait type shots?

Thanks again guys!!!!

The beauty of the D7100 is that it comes with a built in AF motor. So it can AF most if not all Nikon lenses vs your typical DX camera. The switch is located on the lower front of the body just under the lens release button. (AF/M). Just place the switch in the AF position when using glass that doesn't come with built in motors...like Professional lenses.

As for the 80-200mm. It's been around a long time and they have made several versions including a push/pull. Push pulls are just what they imply, you have to pull or push the lens in order to zoom. Generally speaking, when I mention h 80-200mm, I'm referring to the more recent model with two rings and can be AF.

As for your blurry pictures, increasing shutter time will help with this as well as camera holding techniques. Another option you may consider is a Monopod.

 

[kalliela]

Thanks. Still leaning on that 80-200 and that 24-85. But maybe I should get two prime lenses? That 35 1.8 and the 85 1.8? I will have to measure, make sure I will have what I need, thanks a lot guys. One question, there are older 80-200 mm? Does anyone have a picture of the push pull and the more recent ones so I know what to look for? Thanks!


You have helped me more than the two other forums I was asking this stuff on! Thanks!

 

[KmH]

The beauty of the D7100 is that it comes with a built in AF motor. So it can AF most if not all Nikon lenses vs your typical DX camera.

When an AF-S (or AF-I) lens is mounted, the Silent Wave AF motor in the lens is used, not the AF motor and screw-drive in the camera body. AF-S lenses do not have the mechanical connection to the screw-drive that is needed to drive the lens AF mechanism.

The in the camera AF motor and screw-drive is only used to drive AF lenses.

 

[Tailgunner]

The beauty of the D7100 is that it comes with a built in AF motor. So it can AF most if not all Nikon lenses vs your typical DX camera.

When an AF-S (or AF-I) lens is mounted, the Silent Wave AF motor in the lens is used, not the AF motor and screw-drive in the camera body. AF-S lenses do not have the mechanical connection to the screw-drive that is needed to drive the lens AF mechanism.

The in the camera AF motor and screw-drive is only used to drive AF lenses.

That's how I understood it but wasn't trying to be technical.

Now with that said, my D7100 want Auto Focus an AF-S lens with the Auto Focus Motor in Manual mode on the body. The Auto Focus motor has to be on in order to Auto Focus an AF-S lens.

 

[Tailgunner]

Thanks. Still leaning on that 80-200 and that 24-85. But maybe I should get two prime lenses? That 35 1.8 and the 85 1.8? I will have to measure, make sure I will have what I need, thanks a lot guys. One question, there are older 80-200 mm? Does anyone have a picture of the push pull and the more recent ones so I know what to look for? Thanks!


You have helped me more than the two other forums I was asking this stuff on! Thanks!

Here is a history chart of the 80-400mm 2.8 including photos. When I mention the 80-200mm 2.8, I'm referring to the last two released models before being canceled.

Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 History