Need Help in setting up portrait studio with Nikon ?

cusvenus

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Hi Gurus,

I have some equipment that I purchased over this year and planning to setup party photography and baby portraits. Below is the equipment I have.......Colud you uys please advise me what I am missing to setup my studio and what else should I purchase to make it a perfect studio.

What I have?
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1. Nikon D7000
2. Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX Lens
3. Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens
4. Nikon 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 AF-S DX VR ED Nikkor Lens
5. Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED IF AF-S VR Nikkor Zoom Lens
6. Nikon Speed light SB-900
7. SP4000 (2 400W & 1 300 W strobe kit with 2 soft boxes and 1 umbrella + barn door with 4 colour gels + 24" silver reflector)
8. Ravelli APGL4 New Professional Tripod with Adjustable Pistol Grip Head and Heavy Duty Carry Bag
9. Lowepro 250 Back Pack Bag
10. Background stand with (White 10X20, Black 10X13, 1 Small RED and 1 Small Blue Muslin)

What I am interested in buying?
=======================

1. Nikon 10.5mm f/2.8G ED AF DX Fisheye Nikkor Lens
2. Nikon 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5G ED AF-S DX Nikkor Wide-Angle Zoom Lens
3. Nikon 12-24mm f/4G ED IF Autofocus DX Nikkor Zoom Lens
4. Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8D ED AF Zoom Nikkor Lens
5. Nikon 17-55mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S DX Nikkor Zoom Lens
6. Pocket Wizard Plus II (Wireless Trigger)
7. Reflector holder stand.
8. Sekonic L-358 Flash Master Light Meter

Please advise me which I have to buy in I am interested items......or tell me if anything else is better buying then the listed. I kind of spent a lot and want to control spending more :)
 
Instead of the 17-55 you may want to consider the Nikkor 24-70. i find on portrait shots with my D7000 I'm using the longer side of the lens MUCH more than my 24mm side. I bought this considering I'll go full frame, but even on my DX body i use it more at the 70 end.
 
Most of the gear you have listed has little or no application to portraiture/studio work. Fisheye and UWA zooms are pretty much useless in a studio (Good lenses, just not for your stated purpose).

If it were me, I would consider selling the 35mm 1.8, the 18-105, and pass on the 10.5, 10-24, 12-24, and 17-55 and buy a D700 and a 24-70, and if the budget would allow an 85mm 1.8.

The FF body, 24-70 and 85mm will cover the vast majority of your work, and what it won't the 80-200 will take care of. Have you considered all of the 'extras'? The business license and liability/equipment insurance? All of the software? Do you have a sound business plan? Contracts and releases drafted and reviewed by legal professionals? Do you have an accountant or at least a business account at your bank, and a clear understanding of state and federal tax laws?

Good luck!
 
Agree with the rest.. your lenses aren't up to snuff. Whats a Ravelli, never heard of that brand. You are going to need more than a Plus II PW, as each strobe will require a trigger unless they are optical slave capable. Even your wish list is not what you want for what you say you want to do. You might want to pick up a copy of "portraiture for dummies" also.... just in case!
 
Thanks a lot for the suggestion. I will consider buying 24 - 70 and 85mm 1.8 also the book suggested by Charlie.

At this point I don't have to think about business license and stuff as I am not planning to do anything commercial. I am just trying out with my family and friends.
 
Talent isn't really necessary, but knowledge and skill sure are.

I was wondering what the size and ceiling height of the studio and how high the light stands that came in that eBay lighting kit can go?

Though the OP lists the light power as watts 'W', I wonder if the lights are actaully rated in watt seconds, Ws.
 
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KmH - Could you please help me with some sources to increase my knowledge and skills in event photography and studio photography. I have to re-consider my thinking about buying 24-70 mm f2.8 (As listed in my request i already have 35mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 which covers in the range 24-70). Occasionally i take nature pics like sunset and sunrise in the beach) Is it worth to buy that expensive lens. At this point i am not considering going to FF camera so i am good with DX camera D7000.

I mostly like 80 - 200 as i am not satisfied with the close up shots i am taking with Nikon 70-300 f3.5 to 5.6 - Thanks in advance for all the members for their quick response to my questions.
 
Just a suggestion.
When coming into the forum brand new with a question like this, try outlining your experience so people can better help you.
 
Welcome another SJ member!

For family and friends your gear really isn't too bad, for what most consider necessary Pro equipment you fall thou$ands short.

But for family and friends a few light stands, some strobes and you're doing ok. A 70-200vr1 or 85 f1.4D would be invaluable additions for portraiture ;)
 
I would say this: PocketWizards are nice, and great when you need the flash to fire 100% reliably in each and every situation, and from longer distances. I use them. However, for indoor use in-studio, I think the newer, better-grade triggers made in China might be a better value. In terms of a "better value", a quality Paramount brand synch cord is a value like almost no other. As far as the three ultra-wide zooms listed...I have no idea what yuo plan to use those focal lengths for in people photography in-studio...the 10-24mm range makes people look awful...I see no reason to have a 10-20mm or 12-24mm or whatever...
 
KmH - Could you please help me with some sources to increase my knowledge and skills in event photography and studio photography. I have to re-consider my thinking about buying 24-70 mm f2.8 (As listed in my request i already have 35mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 which covers in the range 24-70). Occasionally i take nature pics like sunset and sunrise in the beach) Is it worth to buy that expensive lens. At this point i am not considering going to FF camera so i am good with DX camera D7000.

I mostly like 80 - 200 as i am not satisfied with the close up shots i am taking with Nikon 70-300 f3.5 to 5.6 - Thanks in advance for all the members for their quick response to my questions.
The 35 mm f/1.8 and 50 mm f/1.8 are both inexpensive lenses. The AF 50 mm f/1.8 is the better of the 2.

The 35 mm will distort peoples faces because of it's less than standard focal length. The 50 mm is at the low end of the portait lens focal length range. Better portrait zoom lens on a budget are the Nikon 24-85 mm f/2.8-4, the 85 mm f/1.4, the AF 135 mm f/2 DC, the 80-4200 mm f/2.8, or best of all the $4500 200 mm f/2 prime.

I'm still wondering what the dimensions of your studio are, because that has a direct bearing on how you can light, and how far from your subject you can get?

Jeez it's hard to type accurately after having a couple of good sized B&B's.
 
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Thanks Everyone for making me understand things. I am sorry i didn't list my experience in the beginning. I worked with my father since my schooling in photography that is almost 15 yrs (But most of the time i worked in video than photography. I am very familiar with Adobe Photoshop and Adobe premier, Ulead Photo Impact and Ulead Video Studio). Now that i came to different place then where my dad is living. I thought I will start taking photography also. I have put some money in purchasing the gear that I listed.

KmH - I don't have any studio I go to my friends and take pictures in their backyard or any of their rooms. As I told I am not a commercial photographer, but I want my friends to feel good from the pictures i take of their babies / family. Till now they are very happy from the pictures i have taken so far.... I used 35mm f1.8 for all the functions and 50mm f1.8 for portraits.

Derrel - Thanks for the suggestion, even I like PW triggers but i know it is expensive. I have wide angle zoom lens in my list as occasionally I take landscape photography when I go out with my family on vacation.
 
KmH - I don't have any studio I go to my friends and take pictures in their backyard or any of their rooms.

I'm sorry. My mistake, I guess, since your thread title was

Need Help in setting up portrait studio with Nikon ?

While the people you have taken photos of may like the photos, they are not schooled in the technical aspects of photography, and have an emotional attachment to the photos that pretty much precludes objectivity.

In other words most of them won't notice or care that their noses, or other body parts, are distorted.

In fact, that emotional involvement, and lack of objectivity, is a key element to selling them photographs.
 
KmH - Could you please tell me one lens which is an immediate requirement in my kit for babies portraits.
 

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