Newbie: How to develop?

[Deco]

Hello I am new to photography.

I would like to know a brief explanation on how a photo is developed in the darkroom. What chemicals it passes through and for how long.

That is all I would like to know.

Thank you.

 

[hobbes28]

Hello, and welcome to the forums. I moved your post to the darkroom forum because the regulars here can probably answer your question better.

 

[oriecat]

Develop the film:

Edit - pre wash - fill and let it soak for a little bit, dump and refill if it comes out purpley

Developer - time will vary depending upon the film used and the developer used. Example, I generally use Ilford HP5+ 400 and it develops for 11 minutes in Rodinal at 1:50.

Stop bath - 30 seconds

Fixer - depends on the kind of fixer, rapid or non. I generally go 5-6 minutes just to be safe, even tho my rapid fix says it can between 2-4.

Fill and dump with water 3 times

Hypo-clear - 2 minutes

Wash for 10 minutes - edit - I think I only wash for 5 minutes here. Now I can't remember since I'm not doing it...

Swish in some PhotoFlo for a little bit. I don't time that part myself


Making a print:

Developer - After exposing in the enlarger, development times will vary. I usually do mine between 1.5 and 2 minutes.

Stop Bath - 30 seconds

Fixer - a couple minutes for RC paper, longer for FB. I don't usually time my fixing, I just leave it in for a while while I do other stuff.

Wash - 10 minutes for RC paper, 20 or 30? for FB


This is what I do anyway...

 

[gecko]

u use stop bath in your film developing?

 

[oriecat]

yeah...

 

[gecko]

ookay

 

[oriecat]

It's pretty standard practice...

 

[gecko]

i didnt say its wrong

maybe its a westcoast thing ;-)

 

[rangefinder]

Edit - pre wash - fill and let it soak for a little bit, dump and refill if it comes out purpley

The color that oriecat is referring to is the anti-halation backing on the film. Different manufactures may use a different color. Some are purple, red, blue and grey.

I always prewet a couple of times to ensure the anti-halation backing was removed.

I'm originally from the east coast. I always used stopbath.

The anti-halation backing was put on film to absorb light bouncing off the pressure plate. As light strikes the film it passes through the film, hits the pressure plate and is reflected back onto the film. The anti-halation backing absorbs this preventing the film from being exposed a second time.

 

[ksmattfish]

Here's how I do it...

Film:

Load 35mm BW film on to reels and in to developing tank.

Make sure all solutions are at the same temp (68F is usually recommended).

Pre-wet (water): 30 sec constant agitation, thump the dev tank on the floor to dislodge air bubbles.

Developer: agitate for the first 15 sec, and then for 5 sec every 30 sec for the remaining time (varies with film, developer, etc...)

Stop Bath: 30 sec constant agitation

Fixer: agitate for at least 10 sec out of every 30 sec. Total fixing time is two times the clearing time. Clearing time is determined by dunking scrap film leader in fix and seeing how long it takes to completely clear (turn transparent).

Wash (water): 30 sec constant agitation

Hypo Clear or Wash Aid: 30 sec constant agitation

Wash (water): 30 sec constant agitation, empty and refill with fresh water, 30 sec constant agitation, repeat for a total of 5 or 6 times or 10 min in film washer

Photo-Flo: dunked in photo-flo, some minimal agitation

squeegee with fingers and hang to dry

Prints:

expose print

Developer: 1 min for RC and 2 min for FB, some agitation, I'll usually lift the print out of the developer once or twice

Stop: 10 to 15 sec, constant agitation

Fix: I follow the manufacturer's recommendations, 1 to 5 min depending on type of fixer and paper

Holding Bath (water)

Wash(water) RC: 10 min, squeegee on glass, lay on drying screen

Wash(water) FB: 60 min or 10 min in hypo clear, and 30 min wash, squeegee on glass, lay on drying screen


Stop Bath isn't absolutely necessary with film or prints, but besides halting the developing process, it extends the life of the fixer (which is typically one of the more expensive chems).

 

[ksmattfish]

The anti-halation backing was put on film to absorb light bouncing off the pressure plate. As light strikes the film it passes through the film, hits the pressure plate and is reflected back onto the film. The anti-halation backing absorbs this preventing the film from being exposed a second time.

It also keeps the whole roll of film from being fogged when light makes it through the felt trap on a 35mm cassette. Some IR films don't have the anti-halation coating, and that's why it's so important to handle them with care, as a little stray light can fog through the entire roll.

 

[ksmattfish]

I always prewet a couple of times to ensure the anti-halation backing was removed.

I also will usually rinse several times. I was taught to always pre-wet to help prevent air bells, and to "prime" the emultion for the developer, but I run into lots of folks who consider it completely unnecessary. I figure it doesn't really take that much extra time, and there is all that anti-halation gunk (Forte film rinse water stinks!!), and even if the problems it solves are rare then it's worth it.

 

[Soulreaver]

In the inside of cardbox the roll comes in theres a table that lists times and temperatures for the film/chemicals you are developing.
so you adjust the temperature of the mix (usually 20C) and use the time corresponding.So don't throw the cardbox away

 

[gecko]

of course in theory after the first roll or so u kno wwhat times and such to use

 

[oriecat]

... if you always use the same film.