Newbie questions

[vintagesnaps]

Something that might help you learn to know what your picture will look like is to spend some time looking thru the viewfinder without releasing the shutter or before you start taking pictures when you're out and about with your camera. Try thinking about what you're seeing and if you think it will make a good picture. Make your eye move around the entire rectangle of your viewfinder and make sure what you see in there is what you want in your picture; if not you can move around and change your vantage point. I think it might take time to develop skills in visualizing what your pictures will look like, for me it's more a matter of if it turned out the way I envisioned.

In general I usually use 400 speed film indoors or lower light, 100 ISO outdoors (it's referred to as film speed, ISO is actually a measure of light sensitivity). My starting point is usually 1/125 shutter speed, I don't like to go slower than 1/60 of a second (the shutter speeds are fractions of a second, so as the numbers get bigger the speed is faster and allows in less light). In low light if I need to use a slower speed I try to brace myself to avoid shutter blur if possible.

To get a proper exposure, since your ISO is already determined by what speed film you're using, it's a matter of setting an accurate shutter speed and aperture. I'm used to meters that read -1,0,+1 etc. and I want to have the meter's needle in the middle at 0. With your camera it looks like once you set the shutter speed your meter will tell you how to set the aperture. On p.9 "One Shot at a Time" it shows the needle pointing to f5.6. If the needle seems to fluctuate, then take a picture at, for example, 5.6 and 4 (if the needle is between those two numbers). Or choose whichever seems to be the closest. It may not make a huge difference but usually if I want to make sure I have a good exposure I'll shoot a couple of shots, one at each aperture that the needle's in between.

What you've already been doing, shooting the same shot at different settings and writing down what you did, is a great idea, I've often kept notes while I'm out shooting. I've sometimes done what's called bracketing, which is sort of what you're doing; shooting B&W if I was going to do prints in the darkroom and wanted to make sure I got negatives that weren't too thin or too dense, I'd take maybe 2-3 shots, changing usually the aperture each time (if the camera showed f5.6 I'd take one at f5.6, f4, f8).

My starting point is usually at f8 since it's a midrange aperture and I can turn the lens either way and open up the lens more or close it down some. The f stop is a measurement that is a fraction of the focal length of the lens, so f8 means the size of the lens opening is 1/8 the focal length, f16 is 1/16th the length, f2 is 1/2 the length, etc. You could try before you load film looking thru the back of the camera and see what it does at different aperture and shutter speed settings, that way you might be able to actually see the shutter moving slower or faster, and the lens opening letting in more light and closing down to smaller apertures letting in less light.

(Edit - yes, you want to start the film counter at 1, on yours it looks like it show 0.2 etc. and you'd set it at the dot between 0 and 2. When you're loading film the tail is already being exposed to light so that's why you advance it to 1 to get that tail spooled into the cartridge.) Whew, I hope this makes sense, use what works best for you from the suggestions.)

 

[georgienne]

Here's a great explanation that has a really useful exposure chart at the end: Ultimate Exposure Computer It's kind of long and some of it might be a bit overwhelming at first - it was to me the first time I read it but I keep it bookmarked and re-read it every once in a while; it makes a little more sense every time I go back to it. Hope it helps.

So much information: I appreciate it, thanks so much. I'll make some tea and check out that link!

 

[georgienne]

I am watching this thread and shake my head. I have a feeling, that OP so far was only taking advantage of handicap of computers in digital cameras. Apparently there is a little understanding of how the camera works. Maybe instead of jumping to film and expecting the same easy handling will be better, as cgw pointed, to hit the books. It's not that much to get thru, only 150 years of accumulated knowledge which for sure will be beneficial not only to OP's film photography, but also to his digital picture taking.
For starters link to a library which offers first 10 downloads free:
Download books "Arts & Photography - Photography". Ebook library Bookos.org
Good luck.

I certainly never expected to pick it up within a day of two; however where analogue and digital share some similarities, even pro digital users are set back when using film.. so I don't expect to know everything, at all.
I've read what I can find, both online and off, but am trying to practice and get physical results. That said, I don't what to waste my time, money and film on shots that your guys' knowledge can help me avoid, which is why I'm here.
I'm doing what I can. All I asked for was advice.

Cheers..

 

[georgienne]

Honestly to me it sounds like you REALY need to understand the fundamentals. Things like how does aperture and shutter speed effect the image, and definitely study up on the exposure triangle.

I've read what I can find on exposure, and I think I've a good enough grasp on it. Practically all of those questions were relate to the light meter, which is only a problem for me as its laid out differently from most other cameras I've seen. In the few posts from other people though, I think I've a much better understanding of the AE-1's meter, so I've higher hopes for this next roll.

 

[georgienne]

Something that might help you learn to know what your picture will look like is to spend some time looking thru the viewfinder without releasing the shutter or before you start taking pictures when you're out and about with your camera. Try thinking about what you're seeing and if you think it will make a good picture. Make your eye move around the entire rectangle of your viewfinder and make sure what you see in there is what you want in your picture; if not you can move around and change your vantage point. I think it might take time to develop skills in visualizing what your pictures will look like, for me it's more a matter of if it turned out the way I envisioned.

In general I usually use 400 speed film indoors or lower light, 100 ISO outdoors (it's referred to as film speed, ISO is actually a measure of light sensitivity). My starting point is usually 1/125 shutter speed, I don't like to go slower than 1/60 of a second (the shutter speeds are fractions of a second, so as the numbers get bigger the speed is faster and allows in less light). In low light if I need to use a slower speed I try to brace myself to avoid shutter blur if possible.

To get a proper exposure, since your ISO is already determined by what speed film you're using, it's a matter of setting an accurate shutter speed and aperture. I'm used to meters that read -1,0,+1 etc. and I want to have the meter's needle in the middle at 0. With your camera it looks like once you set the shutter speed your meter will tell you how to set the aperture. On p.9 "One Shot at a Time" it shows the needle pointing to f5.6. If the needle seems to fluctuate, then take a picture at, for example, 5.6 and 4 (if the needle is between those two numbers). Or choose whichever seems to be the closest. It may not make a huge difference but usually if I want to make sure I have a good exposure I'll shoot a couple of shots, one at each aperture that the needle's in between.

What you've already been doing, shooting the same shot at different settings and writing down what you did, is a great idea, I've often kept notes while I'm out shooting. I've sometimes done what's called bracketing, which is sort of what you're doing; shooting B&W if I was going to do prints in the darkroom and wanted to make sure I got negatives that weren't too thin or too dense, I'd take maybe 2-3 shots, changing usually the aperture each time (if the camera showed f5.6 I'd take one at f5.6, f4, f8).

My starting point is usually at f8 since it's a midrange aperture and I can turn the lens either way and open up the lens more or close it down some. The f stop is a measurement that is a fraction of the focal length of the lens, so f8 means the size of the lens opening is 1/8 the focal length, f16 is 1/16th the length, f2 is 1/2 the length, etc. You could try before you load film looking thru the back of the camera and see what it does at different aperture and shutter speed settings, that way you might be able to actually see the shutter moving slower or faster, and the lens opening letting in more light and closing down to smaller apertures letting in less light.

(Edit - yes, you want to start the film counter at 1, on yours it looks like it show 0.2 etc. and you'd set it at the dot between 0 and 2. When you're loading film the tail is already being exposed to light so that's why you advance it to 1 to get that tail spooled into the cartridge.) Whew, I hope this makes sense, use what works best for you from the suggestions.)

Awesome tips, thanks! I definitely like taking my time, so taking my time focusing and looking at my shot is something I'm learning to do (trying to get out of the 'point-and-dslr-will-do-all-the-work' mode).
Like you, I'm much more familiar with the -1 0 +1 light meter, so this one threw me off, but I think I get it now. It just seemed too easy that it gave a recommended aperture, but I'm getting used to it. I'm also bracketing (I'd read the term in a book, but didn't know if it was common so didn't use it here), so hopefully that yields some half-decent shots too.
Bummer about the shot count, I've been 1 behind the whole time.. Oh well, now I know!

Again, thank you, your crazy long response was great.

 

[georgienne]

Found out that the first two rolls I shot didn't actually 'up-take' properly (my error), so nothing was exposed at all.. so onto roll 3, but armed with new knowledge.

Thank you all!

 

[vintagesnaps]

You might want to look at Film Photography Project | An Internet Radio Show & On-Line Resource for Film Shooters Worldwide - they do a podcast, have videos on topics including how to load film, and a Flickr discussion group.

 

[limr]

When you advance the film, watch the knob you use to wind the film back in the canister. That knob should also be turning when you advance the film. If it's not, you might be having problems again with the uptake.

If this happens, you can try to deal with it in a completely dark room by rewinding with the back open (so you you can catch the leader before it gets rewound into the canister) and then reloading the film. Keep the back open to make sure it's loaded properly and you can feel if the film is advancing. The room has to be totally dark. If you're in a closet, for example, make sure the light in the outer room is also off, and put something under the door to prevent light leaks.

 

[limr]

Oh, and don't be discouraged by early disappointments or mistakes. That's how you learn! Film has a different sort of learning curve from digital. You have fewer chances to screw up so when things don't turn out the way you wanted, it feels like a bigger deal. But when they go right, it's exhilarating and totally worth it, so keep shooting!

 

[georgienne]

When you advance the film, watch the knob you use to wind the film back in the canister. That knob should also be turning when you advance the film. If it's not, you might be having problems again with the uptake. If this happens, you can try to deal with it in a completely dark room by rewinding with the back open (so you you can catch the leader before it gets rewound into the canister) and then reloading the film. Keep the back open to make sure it's loaded properly and you can feel if the film is advancing. The room has to be totally dark. If you're in a closet, for example, make sure the light in the outer room is also off, and put something under the door to prevent light leaks.

That was my problem, the film knob never moved but I didn't think anything of it. The film was never actually coming out, so I kept shooting on the same frame.
Also explains why it didn't stop advancing at 24..

I did have issues loading once, and did like you said, shut off all the lights in the house and escaped to the bathroom (no flat surface in a closet), I was scared just feeling around that'd I'd touch something important, but I did get the film reloaded.


Re: your other post, I definitely expected a couple mess-ups, I did think I could load properly though, so that was a sad finding. But now I know, and I'm once again looking forward to the results.
I'm really enjoying it over digital: I'm not a patient person, but waiting, composing and thinking out the shot is so much nicer than just shooting it and sorting through the crappy ones on a computer and editing the good one til it's decent. This is becoming fun.

Thanks for all your help!