Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 VR1 vs Vr2... Shooting into the sun...

TheLost

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I've run into a 'weakness' with my Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 VR1 and i'm wondering if the VR2 would handle it better..

The problem.. Shooting my younger sons games @ 9am...

Shooting West 2 weeks ago (morning sun at my back)..
into-sun-2.jpg

1/3200 | f/3.2 | 250 iso | 133mm

Shooting East this week (directly into the morning sun)..
into-sun-1.jpg

1/2000 | f/3.2 | 320 iso | 133mm

I've read that this is one of the issues with the 70-200 f/2.8 VR1 (shooting into the sun) but this is the first time I've really run into it. Horrible glare, washed out colors, low contrast... It's killing me!

Whats funny is i don't get the same washed out images shooting at evening (sunset) with the VR1. I think the location of this field and the time of the games = worst lighting conditions for the VR1 :(

I've used the VR2 but never in this situation... My question is... How much better would the VR2 be shooting into the early/sunrise sun? would it be worth the upgrade?
 
I've run into a 'weakness' with my Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 VR1 and i'm wondering if the VR2 would handle it better..

The problem.. Shooting my younger sons games @ 9am...

Shooting West 2 weeks ago (morning sun at my back)..
into-sun-2.jpg

1/3200 | f/3.2 | 250 iso | 133mm

Shooting East this week (directly into the morning sun)..
into-sun-1.jpg

1/2000 | f/3.2 | 320 iso | 133mm

I've read that this is one of the issues with the 70-200 f/2.8 VR1 (shooting into the sun) but this is the first time I've really run into it. Horrible glare, washed out colors, low contrast... It's killing me!

Whats funny is i don't get the same washed out images shooting at evening (sunset) with the VR1. I think the location of this field and the time of the games = worst lighting conditions for the VR1 :(

I've used the VR2 but never in this situation... My question is... How much better would the VR2 be shooting into the early/sunrise sun? would it be worth the upgrade?

I've got a VRII but haven't had it long enough to really play with it. So I'm really curious on whether the VRII would help in this situation or not. I mean those pictures really took a beating.
 
The VR-1 version is very weak when shooting toward the sun. That's probably that lens's major weakness. The best solution that I have found is the Mamiya 360 rubber lens hood, which is longer than the stock petal hood, but which does not vignette on 1.5x Nikon bodies.

By squishing the lens hood down a bit with the left hand, you can literally "throw a shadow on the front element", and cut the amount of grazing light down by quite a bit. Here's an example of what I mean using the Mamiya 360 lens hood and the 70-200 VR-1 model lens.

14686024.jpg


here is my original caption information from my pBase site's March, 2003 post on this subject:

"I have been using a Mamiya RB 360mm lens's rubber shade on the 70-200 VR lens.I see no reason why this wouldn't also be a decent lens hood for ALL 77mm front thread 80-200 2.8 zoom lenses,regardless of brand

It is apprx. 179mm long, and 188mm inside diameter at the business end. It is soft yet fairly firm yet flexible rubber,and it offers MUCH more SIDE-angle protection from flare/glare than the butterfly or "perfect" hood that comes with the 70-200 lens,since it is more or less an almost-straight cylindrical screw-in hood. In this situation, with intense late-afternoon sun angling in from behind my subject this hood did not properly shield the lens and filter combo,and some nasty flare and ghosting occured. However, by merely mashing the top of the rubber hood down with my left hand fingers held flat, using a pinching motion, I was able to quickly "throw a shadow" onto the front element,quell the flare, and also avoid any vignetting,and actually shoot the scene with no problems! I included the out of focus plant on the right side of the frame-notice that with the longer,rubber shade flattened, in the second shot I was able to swing the camera several MORE degrees up,and actually more-toward the sun,without getting any ghosting!

Score One for an old $1.99 junk bin rubber lens hood!"
 
I think it would be easier for me to find a Bondi Blue iMac then it would a Mamiya 360 lens hood :)

Is the VR2 worth the upgrade?... that is the ~$700 question.
 
I think it would be easier for me to find a Bondi Blue iMac then it would a Mamiya 360 lens hood :)

Is the VR2 worth the upgrade?... that is the ~$700 question.

I think that Mamiya lens hood is available....somewhere...maybe from a big dealer on-line? I dunno...but it sure is a good lens shade for a 70-200 when used on a crop-body!!! BUT, when shot on FF, it vignettes--badly!!!

I LOOKED ON-LINE.... the very LAST listing on eBay out of three pages had one....but it was with the lens!!!

Mamiya Sekor Z RZ Camera Lens F 360mm 1 6 Hood Cap RARE | eBay

I believe the 80-200 f/2.8 AF-S does NOT ghost and flare when shot into the sun...and is $999 many places when available. It's a fast-focuser as well.
 
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I believe the 80-200 f/2.8 AF-S does NOT ghost and flare when shot into the sun...and is $999 many places when available. It's a fast-focuser as well.

I don't mind going to the VR2.. I just preferred the lack-of-focus-breathing on the VR1. however, i'd hate to loose the (itsy-bitsy) range and still have the poor glare.

I may have to rent a VR2 this weekend and run some tests.
 
I believe the 80-200 f/2.8 AF-S does NOT ghost and flare when shot into the sun...and is $999 many places when available. It's a fast-focuser as well.

I don't mind going to the VR2.. I just preferred the lack-of-focus-breathing on the VR1. however, i'd hate to loose the (itsy-bitsy) range and still have the poor glare.

I may have to rent a VR2 this weekend and run some tests.

I would rent one or check out the local photography groups, maybe they can meet up and let you squeeze off a few shots.
 

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