Nikon D5100 problems

[MTVision]

It does matter when you're in a fast changing situation. Even if you aren't in a fast changing situation, you'll set your aperture and your shutter speed to take care of motion blur and depth of field, and let noise take care of itself. Even if you weren't on auto ISO, you'll eventually need to increase the ISO right? If you worry about high ISOs, simply make the aperture larger or make the shutter speed slower. Simple? KenRockwell shoots with auto ISO too! Anyway, this was just a suggestion to help the OP. Setting Auto ISO on manual is actually like Aperture+ShutterSpeed Priority. Why do you shoot Aperture Priority? Why do you shoot Shutter Speed priority?

Also, one thing, when shooting auto ISO in manual mode, you don't have exposure compensation though, so your pictures might turn out not the way you want, but the metering technology is so good nowadays you need not worry.

I was looking up something and came across ken rockwells website.

"ISO Auto Increases sensitivity (ISO) in dim light automatically to prevent blur from slow shutter speeds.

I use this all of the time, unless I'm using manual exposure mode. Auto ISO is a crucial component of Modern Exposure Technique."

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d80/users-guide/menus-custom.htm

 

[jake337]

Set your camera to M, take ISO off auto, set your metering to spot and read up on "zone metering".

 

[EchoingWhisper]

Auto shutter speed (aperture priority) controls noise & depth of field, auto aperture (shutter speed) controls noise & motion blur, auto ISO controls motion blur & depth of field. I don't mind having a little noise in my photographs, people from the film or people using old digital cameras have pretty bad noise/grain - did that prevent them from taking good photographs? To me, motion blur & depth of field is a more important, and I don't have more than a second to change my settings before the shot is gone, that's why I always put my ISO on auto. I've lost a few nice photographs when I didn't set anything on auto.

My advice - set Shutter speed priority at a bright place, set auto ISO+manual at a dark place and fast changing situations, and full manual on everything else.

 

[MTVision]

I tried what you said. I figured out the optimal settings for my situation then I turned on auto ISO - my ISO jumped up to 800 when it could've been shot on ISO 100 with the same exact settings. So it doesn't really matter if you pick the correct settings for that scene - auto ISO has a mind of its own.

 

[EchoingWhisper]

I tried what you said. I figured out the optimal settings for my situation then I turned on auto ISO - my ISO jumped up to 800 when it could've been shot on ISO 100 with the same exact settings. So it doesn't really matter if you pick the correct settings for that scene - auto ISO has a mind of its own.

Weirdly, mine works. Does that mean auto ISO over-exposes the picture by 3 stops?

 

[EchoingWhisper]

Have you heard of the the TAv setting in K-5? It's exactly like manual+auto ISO

 

[MTVision]

Weirdly, mine works. Does that mean auto ISO over-exposes the picture by 3 stops?

Auto ISO didn't necessarily overexpose the picture but I use spot metering so it didn't work - I don't focus on what I meter off of it. It would probably work with matrix/evaluative metering mode. Or I could lock my exposure but then why would I need auto ISO?? And if the shot could be taken with ISO 100 then why would I want to use ISO 800? My point is - it takes literally 2 seconds to change all 3 settings in a fast changing scene. If you don't want to bother with changing 1 setting why not just use aperture priority or shutter priority?

If auto ISO works for you then that's all that matters.

 

[EchoingWhisper]

Weirdly, mine works. Does that mean auto ISO over-exposes the picture by 3 stops?

Auto ISO didn't necessarily overexpose the picture but I use spot metering so it didn't work - I don't focus on what I meter off of it. It would probably work with matrix/evaluative metering mode. Or I could lock my exposure but then why would I need auto ISO?? And if the shot could be taken with ISO 100 then why would I want to use ISO 800? My point is - it takes literally 2 seconds to change all 3 settings in a fast changing scene. If you don't want to bother with changing 1 setting why not just use aperture priority or shutter priority?

If auto ISO works for you then that's all that matters.

I don't use spot metering in dark conditions/fast changing situations so I never have your problem, if I were to use spot metering then I would use shutter priority.

 

[MTVision]

I don't use spot metering in dark conditions/fast changing situations so I never have your problem, if I were to use spot metering then I would use shutter priority.

How would you use spot metering in shutter priority and why? You would have to use the ae-l button to lock exposure in shutter priority (which takes just as long as adjusting your ISO) but in manual all you have to do is adjust the settings. The settings will never change in manual unless you change them. I don't really understand your reasonings but like I said - if they work for you then that's all that matters

 

[EchoingWhisper]

I don't use spot metering in dark conditions/fast changing situations so I never have your problem, if I were to use spot metering then I would use shutter priority.

How would you use spot metering in shutter priority and why? You would have to use the ae-l button to lock exposure in shutter priority (which takes just as long as adjusting your ISO) but in manual all you have to do is adjust the settings. The settings will never change in manual unless you change them. I don't really understand your reasonings but like I said - if they work for you then that's all that matters

Because I can use exposure compensation without accessing the menu, anyway, if I am in a fast changing situation I wouldn't use spot metering.

 

[marcdax]

So i got a call the camera was back.
Picked it up and tried it.
Was a note : they cleaned the CCD , changed a few parameters

Before we disagree , i first wanted to try (as the guy in the shop said) taking a picture on Auto (without flash).
He told it has to take a great picture.
This is what i ended up with :

Focuspoints are circled (sorry its a bit quickly done)
Is this the best the thing can do ???
And than the exif data :
s/30 , f 4.5 and iso 3200 (on middle of the noon , with a window on the right side of approx. 2x1metre.)
=> before we discuss the iso on auto or not , it's about the picturequality that I'm wondering
S/30 is a little slow for handheld , but it cant be that you have to use a tripod in house to take a picture ?

This one is ????

exif : s1/30 , f/5.6 iso 900

So from the picture above , my question is :
i set it on F5.6 (it wouldn't go lower) , with my iso on a lower number i would have needed a tripod for sure.
How would you gotten a faster shuttertime ?

 

[marcdax]

And for something else :
why , if i change my lightning (to make it more dark or bright) , it doesnt change at all ?
If i put it to +5 it stays the same as i would do nothing
(and i mean changing the settings on the camera before taking the picture)

If this is a stupid question , please say so and tell me how I should do it (right)
Thank you

 

[MTVision]

So i got a call the camera was back.
Picked it up and tried it.
Was a note : they cleaned the CCD , changed a few parameters

Before we disagree , i first wanted to try (as the guy in the shop said) taking a picture on Auto (without flash).
He told it has to take a great picture.
This is what i ended up with :

Focuspoints are circled (sorry its a bit quickly done)
Is this the best the thing can do ???
And than the exif data :
s/30 , f 4.5 and iso 3200 (on middle of the noon , with a window on the right side of approx. 2x1metre.)
=> before we discuss the iso on auto or not , it's about the picturequality that I'm wondering
S/30 is a little slow for handheld , but it cant be that you have to use a tripod in house to take a picture ?

This one is ????

exif : s1/30 , f/5.6 iso 900

So from the picture above , my question is :
i set it on F5.6 (it wouldn't go lower) , with my iso on a lower number i would have needed a tripod for sure.
How would you gotten a faster shuttertime ?

Houses have poor lighting so that's why you have a slow shutter speed. The first picture - hardly any lighting thats why the ISO is high an shutter speed is low. ISO will raise shutter speed but it's not always going to make it fast enough to handhold. I still think you need a better understanding of exposure and lighting because you still don't get it. There obviously wasn't really anything wrong with the camera it's user error. Your popup flash will make the shutter speed faster. You need light to create good pictures even on auto - lighting inside houses is poor at best.

 

[marcdax]

And the one at the window , there was a light on the ceiling also.

Megan , I'm just talking about the sharpness
And I wasn't the only one who noticed something wrong with it , otherwise the guy at the shop wouldn't told me to send it back
So I could totally understand that i dont understand anything about it , but on auto it isn't better.
You say it never will take a good picture on auto, in the shop they tell me it produces great images even if you dont know a thing.

And what about this one ?

exif : 1/5 shutter , iso 1200 , f 5.6

 

[marcdax]

And doens't the D5100 has an cmos sensor istead of an ccd ?
Or would this be a general name they used ?