Off Camera Flash

[daggah]

The only real problems I've had with Nikon CLS is when I've attempted to mix in my Yongnuo YN-560 (version 1, but with revised with a metal foot) flash to fire along with my Nikon ones, with the YN-560 set to S2 mode to ignore pre-flashes. It can get a little wonky sometimes. I now have three Nikon flashes so my next photo session with off-camera flashes will be all-Nikon and hopefully go more smoothly.

The Nikon flashes themselves seem pretty sensitive indoors. I've even heard of Westcott Apollo softbox users having their flashes fire with the CLS system, with the flashes fully enclosed in the Westcott softboxes.

 

[dutcheagle]

I am using a Nikon SB-700 and would like to get a consensus as to what route to go when conducting off camera TTL with 2 flash units. When I say TTL, the objective is to be able to control the power output of each of the flashes independently (different groups) and remotely from the trigger on the camera. And of course I want to keep the cost down as low as possible.

1. Would I want to invest in another SB-700 and use a couple of PW TT5's?

2. Would I want to invest in 2 less expensive YN-565EX or YN-568EX flash units and use the SB-700 as the trigger or get the YN-622C flash trigger?

Option number 2 is the best of both worlds with the YN-622N you can do manual or TTL. Please note the YN-622C is for Canon, the YN-622N is for Nikon. A set cost between $80 and $90 so very affordable. Those are transceivers each can act as a receiver or a transmitter. see here for more info: YN-622N TTL Trigger for NIKON is Official ? & Coming Soon | FLASH HAVOC

 

[Bjarvis29]

yes

And the question come back to what the TTL options are

Nikon
PW
YN

and ?????

Don't write off the Phottix Odin triggers. They are TTL & I've heard good things about them

 

[captmike]

If you want to keep the cost low, you wouldn't be thinking about radio triggers. Your camera should enable you to set the power of multiple groups from the camera itself in manual or TTL and trigger with the pop-up. It's a nice system. Does what you're doing demand spending $520 on radio triggers just so you can save a few seconds dialing in some power to flashes five feet away? When have you seen the pop-up not work in your own experience? For less than that you could get a commander or third flash. I don't get why people bother with cheap radios. I've seen Gary Fong use cheap radios within five feet of his flash. What's the point? He could just turn the sensor toward the camera and use the pop-up. IR is good for at least 75 feet on a bright sunny day. It's good through diffusers. As long as you have a triangle of light, you can use CLS. If you're serious about radios, don't bother with cheap brands. Get the PW. They're great, but they're expensive.

Thanks, but I have already addressed the CLS system in above posts

 

[captmike]

I am using a Nikon SB-700 and would like to get a consensus as to what route to go when conducting off camera TTL with 2 flash units. When I say TTL, the objective is to be able to control the power output of each of the flashes independently (different groups) and remotely from the trigger on the camera. And of course I want to keep the cost down as low as possible.

1. Would I want to invest in another SB-700 and use a couple of PW TT5's?

2. Would I want to invest in 2 less expensive YN-565EX or YN-568EX flash units and use the SB-700 as the trigger or get the YN-622C flash trigger?

Option number 2 is the best of both worlds with the YN-622N you can do manual or TTL. Please note the YN-622C is for Canon, the YN-622N is for Nikon. A set cost between $80 and $90 so very affordable. Those are transceivers each can act as a receiver or a transmitter. see here for more info: YN-622N TTL Trigger for NIKON is Official ? & Coming Soon | FLASH HAVOC

Thank you very much for your thoughts on this.

Yes, that is the same link that I have been previously looking at.

 

[2WheelPhoto]

How about split the difference? A couple of YN-5xx speedlights and three PW Plus X... I agree 100% with Kundalini; manual flash is much easier to work with and much more consistant.

+1

or Vivitar 285s plus the pocketwizards