Parade and a few Fuji questions

[jcdeboever]

For events like that, I shoot manual all the way. Set my desired ISO based on condition (400 for that scene and probably the day) Single point focus (325), raw, center weight meter, and use manual focus with high red peaking, no preview on. I'm essentially using it like a film SLR. Keeper rate is very good. Manual enables me to adjust things quickly, let a say a person with a colorful pinwheel and I want to show motion blur on it but keep the person sharp, I drop the shutter, close the aperture , and smooth the background in post if needed. I have become so accustomed to sunny 16 rule because of the Nikon F, I set my camera there to start and it's very fast (minor) adjustment, if any most of the day. I have my EC adjustment on the rear dial which gives you like -5 or +5 if I recall correctly and use it. My thumb is used on the joystick and rear wheel. Super easy camera to use, just wonderful for me. I wish my Nikon F had a EC dial, lol.

I don't think there is a right or wrong way, just what your used to doing. I think you could literally put the lens in A and the shutter on A, set auto ISO range, put EC on rear dial, matrix meter, and shoot your butt off all day if you wanted. The camera is that good. I just love the level of control you have at your disposal with the XT2, it's one, fine, camera.

I don't think there is a right or wrong way, just what your used to doing.

Thanks for the input and the above statement was an aha moment for me. On the 5D I set my aperture first and the ISO is dependent on how much I want to drag the shutter. I was trying to do this with the Fuji plus trying to change the ISO and shutter dial on the fly since I didn't have full range dragging the shutter. I think if set the Fuji to T on the shutter dial then I will have the full range to drag the shutter. But, need to keep an eye on the shutter speed. I do have it set in camera to not go below 60, but with it in T mode it goes below.

Took some practice shots with the using the Auto ISO and exposure comp. The test shots of the pups using the method of T and dragging the shutter worked best for me. Changing the Aperture on the fly felt natural too. I changed to center weighted metering and 325 points with smaller spot focus and things are looking much better. Tried out the Zone focus and think this would work if I used a smaller aperture.

I've never used the Aperture or Shutter priority before on the 5D. I have used Auto ISO and exp. comp a few times.

Thanks for everyone's help.

There you go, your on your way. I shoot a lot of film so my described method is not for everyone, and to be honest, it is how I started. I assume most people would think it is over working it but understanding the light that I am seeing prior to adjustments makes this a mute point. I used to be literally one click on a A ring or S dial and two thumbing the focus point and EC. Currently, I walk around in a zone focus range (feet), sunny 16, bump the EC to control highlights, and put the camera to my eye and snap. I am not fumbling at all, point and shoot with a manual camera for the most part. I walk down the street and look at shadows and adjust the A ring and S dial prior to the shot. Hard edge shadows - 1 to 2 EC, soft shadow 0, faint or no shadow +1 to 2 EC.