Paul C. Buff Setup Question.

YN 560 slave mode.. boom!

Well dammit, Jim, I owe you a case of beer! :lmao: You just saved me $300! You, sir, are GOLDEN.

Until such time as I decide to shoot outdoors in sunlight and need the wireless system...
 
YN 560 slave mode.. boom!

Well dammit, Jim, I owe you a case of beer! :lmao: You just saved me $300! You, sir, are GOLDEN.

Until such time as I decide to shoot outdoors in sunlight and need the wireless system...

The Yongnuo 560's have two slave modes as I mentioned.. if I remember correctly.. S1 is normal slave.. S2 is where it will ignore pre-flash, and allow you to use your 700 in TTL mode if you choose....

I use my 560's primarily as hair / rim / background lights when I don't want to carry monolights with me... they work pretty well.
 
You aren't using a system like the pocketwizards that will be controlling your flash from the camera, so... Nope. I wouldn't buy a trigger for either of the YN's.
I'd probably go for a trigger & receiver for the one dedicated SB flash to get it off my camera and have consistency and capability in more difficult situations-even though I have a dedicated space I know I don't always shoot there and I do use flashes elsewhere that I wouldn't expect the CLS system to consistently work in.
I don't think I'd go with the Buff product-it's not TTL and as far as I am concerned it's an overpriced version several different radio slaves.
I am all for getting all flash off the camera if at all possible.

If your cheapie cowboy's arrive today you are great with that for now.
 
The Yongnuo 560's have two slave modes as I mentioned.. if I remember correctly.. S1 is normal slave.. S2 is where it will ignore pre-flash, and allow you to use your 700 in TTL mode if you choose....

I use my 560's primarily as hair / rim / background lights when I don't want to carry monolights with me... they work pretty well.

That's exactly right. Just what I want to use them for too. Thanks so much for the help!
 
You aren't using a system like the pocketwizards that will be controlling your flash from the camera, so... Nope. I wouldn't buy a trigger for either of the YN's.
I'd probably go for a trigger & receiver for the one dedicated SB flash to get it off my camera and have consistency and capability in more difficult situations-even though I have a dedicated space I know I don't always shoot there and I do use flashes elsewhere that I wouldn't expect the CLS system to consistently work in.
I don't think I'd go with the Buff product-it's not TTL and as far as I am concerned it's an overpriced version several different radio slaves.
I am all for getting all flash off the camera if at all possible.

If your cheapie cowboy's arrive today you are great with that for now.

I would only buy the Buff gear if I was heavily invested in Buff lighting.. ( which I do like!).. but pocket wizards are much more versatile, and work with every light out there (with the correct cable!). So even then. I would prefer the PW's...
 
1. You will not be able to use the camera's pop up to trigger the SB if you have a trigger mounted on your camera, so yep.

If something is mounted on the hot shoe that will not interfere with the on board popping up there is a trigger in the side of the hotshoe mount that will then prevent your on board flash from firing or popping up. The camera knows when something is there even if it isn't physically holding the flash down.

Sorry, but this is untrue for Nikon. You can have the Cybersync transmitter in the hotshoe, have the built-in flash popped up and still trigger a remote flash optically without a receiver on the flash unit.
 
I would only buy the Buff gear if I was heavily invested in Buff lighting.. ( which I do like!).. but pocket wizards are much more versatile, and work with every light out there (with the correct cable!). So even then. I would prefer the PW's...
Although the PWs are an industry standard, the come at a high price. The PCB Cybersync's are a univeral radio trigger. PCB lighting equipment is not required. Nothing magical about the Cybersync's.
 
Yes, the appeal of the Cyber Sync system (the basic triggers, not the Cyber Commander and plus receivers) is that they pretty much have the same great reliability as Pocket Wizards (although, without the 1600' range)...but cost much less.

But lately, there seems to be more and more cheap radio triggers popping up on the market. Some people have had great results from these, and others find that they are indeed pretty cheap and unreliable.

It would be great if there was a definitive 'best' options for a simple radio trigger set that cost less than $100 (trigger and receiver). As mentioned, there are plenty of options...but I haven't seen any body doing some real testing and comparing.
 
1. You will not be able to use the camera's pop up to trigger the SB if you have a trigger mounted on your camera, so yep.

If something is mounted on the hot shoe that will not interfere with the on board popping up there is a trigger in the side of the hotshoe mount that will then prevent your on board flash from firing or popping up. The camera knows when something is there even if it isn't physically holding the flash down.


Sorry, but this is untrue for Nikon. You can have the Cybersync transmitter in the hotshoe, have the built-in flash popped up and still trigger a remote flash optically without a receiver on the flash unit.


I learned something new there! I know I cannot pop the flash up on my canons once something is mounted on the shoe and the design is such that nothing could be mounted on the shoe without interfering in the pop up coming up.
 
I should clarify that I tested it only with the D700. YMMV.
 
If you have questions give them a call. They supposedly have excellent customer service. 1-800-443-5542 9:00-5:00 CST.

I don't personally have any of their gear but they are only a couple of miles from my home, so one of these days I probably will.
 
I just tested it out on my 20D and the pop-up flash does come above the hotshoe, so the two can't be used at once. Although, I often have a flash in the hot shoe and attach the transmitter to the camera via the PC port and a short cord...and in emergencies, a really long cord. :lol:
 

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