Pentax Takumar 50mm/1.4 lens for M43...?

[MidEastGal]

I passed by a unique camera sale/exchange place (Canada). A Super multi-coated Takumar 50mm/1.4 attracted me and it was in excellent condition, for $150 (not sure if final). My camera is GH3 and (besides the zoom) I am looking at the moment for a used prime. I never used m43 before and I don't know a lot about the equivalent thing to m43. I have many questions: Is this lens equivalent FOV of m43 100mm lens? Is the equivalency method same for still and video? How is the focus? Those who have 50mm legacy and use it on ur m43, how do you guys find it for portraits and indoor video? What adopter is used/average price? (I seen a screw on the lens.) Would I be better getting a 25mm in FF to be equivalent (almost) to the 45-50mm spot in my m43? Any comments and samples are appreciated.

I read so much about the 50mm being good for video and background and seen amazing videos but not sure how it works on m43:

[video=vimeo;10917206]http://vimeo.com/10917206[/video]

I found this website about equivalents and it seems different; what do you guys think of it:

http://filmsbyshaun.com/the-switch-to-micro-43-and-super35-equivalent-fov/

and a calculator:

http://www.abelcine.com/fov/

Note: The dust in the photo is on the filter; I opened it and it is clean inside.

 

[irfan.in.tx]

The Super Multi Coated Takumar 50mm f1.4 is a legendary lens that can be had for a reasonable price.
You may be able to bargain it down a bit.

I've used it only for pictures, and that too on a Pentax. With the 2X crop factor, it will become 100 mm equivalent view. It produces a unique creamy bokeh and has a nice color rendition. Challenging to get sharp focus wide open, but very sharp at 2.8 and less.

If you are looking for a manual prime that will be in the normal range, you might want to take a look at the Takumar 28mm f3.5 (M42 mount) or the Olympus 28mm f2.8, both of which are cheaper.

 

[MidEastGal]

Irfan, thank you so much for your reply. Yea I am looking for the "normal" common range but a bit faster aperture than 2.8. I'll check these lenses though.

 

[Balinus]

I like my old Minolta lenses (one MC 58mm Rokkor-PF f/1.4, one MC 135mm f/2.8 and a MD 50mm f/2). All of them produce nice images, ideal for portrait. For videos, with some practice, the focus is easily done on moving subject, but you need a tripod because the camera will move as you focus.

I don't know their prices (took them from my dad), but I'm sure they can satisfy you and cost less than the Takumar.

 

[MidEastGal]

Balinus, thanks! This is helpful. Next time I go to this nice store I found here, I'll keep an eye to many other things.

 

[BrianV]

$150 is high for a Pentax 50/1.4 SMC. I paid $40 for a Minolta MC mount 50/1.4 at a Photorama show two weeks ago, EX+ condition and perfect glass.

$75 or so would be more reasonable. also check the Pentax F1.4 screwmount lenses for "yellowed" glass. Pentax use Thorium glass which is (slightly) radioactive. After 20 years, it turns the glass yellow/brown. This can be cleared up using a UV light. Mine cleared up.

On a u43 camera, it is going to by 2x the magnification compared with a "normal" FOV 25mm lens. For portraits, the fast-50mm lens is great.

 

[MidEastGal]

Brian, thanks a lot for your reply. I read about the radioactive stuff and it does not feel good. Price is very important aspect I wanted to make sure about. I kind of felt it was expensive but wanted to make sure as never bought legacy. I think he is insisting on $150 and besides I might do more search on other wider legacy primes due to this 2x factor, then. Something that would convert in the line of the Pan 25mm or the Oly 45mm (?)

 

[BrianV]

Jupiter-8 50mm F2 is inexpensive, small, and quite good.

In Leica Thread Mount, use with an M39 to u43 adapter.

J-8's run ~$60 on Ebay.

 

[MidEastGal]

Brian, thank you. Very nice lens and image.

 

[daggah]

The only problem with the Jupiters is that you'll probably have a lot of sample variance.

Minolta MC/MD mount lenses should be fairly cheap on eBay just because the mount is dead. But in terms of old fast 50s, the selection is vast and a lot of it will come down to personal choice. You may also want to look for Olympus 40 f/1.8s and Konica Hexanon 45 f/2s as well.

 

[BrianV]

On a rangefinder camera: most Jupiters need to be shimmed to have the actual focus agree with the rangefinder. Optically: the KMZ made lenses have the best quality control.

A very Windy Day! Wide-open at F2, and close-focus on the M9.

This one is shimmed for the Leica standard, and modified for 0.65m close-focus.


With Mirrorless cameras, it is not a problem.

The Trapezoid with the ray of light going through it denotes KMZ. Most J-8's are KMZ made. Optically, they compare will with the Nikkor 5cm F2 and other Sonnar clones.

The Jupiter-3: KMZ stopped making the 5cm F1.5 in 1956, went to ZOMZ and others. After 1964, the quality was all over the place. The 1980s J-3 50/1.5: are usually very bad.

The Minolta 50/1.4 MC mount is very sharp, especially at the center. It is a much bigger lens that the J-8, on a u43 camera this makes a difference as the Body is small. A little bit harder to use on a Leica Rangefinder, but it is possible with some work...

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3392903

 

[Patriot]

For $150 that had better be the 8 element version of the lens. I got my copy for far far less.

 

[BrianV]

The 8-element version is uncommon, and a collector would love to get one. Optically, the newer version is better.

I bought the Minolta MC 50/1.4 for $40.

 

[macsoft2]

This is the best Lens i own! And its the second of the same i've bought. The first one was stolen, when they stole my NEX 5
I use it on my NEX 7 now, but it has some magenta tint..
Nevertheless, GREAT lens. worth every cent

 

[BrianV]

The magenta cast in the image may be from the Thorium glass. It tends to turn interior elements to yellow/brown. Easiest way I found to clear it is to take the rear group out and set both in front of a UV lamp for a day or so. This does not generate as much heat as sunlight, which tends to dry out the lubricants.