Perspective using a 35mm film camera

jcdeboever

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I recently embarked on a 135 format, personal challenge, with the goal to accurately represent a scene perspectively utilizing my hardware. I failed but learned. You are seeing learned. I learned that I am a box in a window. Shooting a framed object and trying to get it straight left to right, up and down, in and out. Hard

I love @smoke, he brings it home.
 
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What the heck.... Ok, here are the images...

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Nothing too wrong with those.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Loaded the first roll of Illiford Delta 100 yesterday, in my trusty old Pentax MZ. .Little bit of adjustment going from high tech back to low tech. All the thumbwheels and menus I was used to adjusting on the fly weren't there. After this I'll try out the Canon EF.
 
Loaded the first roll of Illiford Delta 100 yesterday, in my trusty old Pentax MZ. .Little bit of adjustment going from high tech back to low tech. All the thumbwheels and menus I was used to adjusting on the fly weren't there. After this I'll try out the Canon EF.
Have fun bud. That's what it is about. Good to hear.
 
You are not using the word "perspective" correctly. I think you mean something along the lines of correct camera alignment, or plano-parallel camera alignment with the . It can be tricky many times, to get a subject framed up absolutely perfectly, with the camera's film plane in perfect position in relation to the subject! A grid screen can help many people. I used to like Nikons E Type viewfinder screen for that reason.
 
Those look good. Sometimes I line up vertical lines parallel to one side or the other of the frame. Figured that out shooting sports with lines and posts and signs. Depends on what it is, guess it helps sometimes making sure it's straight.

Or if I'm having trouble, I look away momentarily then reframe. Guess your eyes can get goofy doing enough of trying to shoot a lot of subjects that need to be straight.
 
What are these anyway? Interesting pictures, I went back and looked again.
 
Looks like you are talking about lining up the film plane with another flat object. Unless you are using a view camera or tilt-shift lens then the camera film plane and the object plane are fixed in parallel planes.

I had read an interesting article years ago on how to set the subject parallel with the film plane and have used it a few times. Uses some basic geometry. Just need distance to subject from film plane, then measure lines parallel with the subject out at 90 degree angles to each other (usually horizontal and vertical), then use the Pythagorean Theorem to calculate the 'c' or longest length that you need to have so both the horizontal and vertical camera tilt are at 0 degrees to the subject.

When doing this I usually keep the subject in place and slide the tripod left or right to match the horizontal C distance and raise and lower the center section for the vertical C distance. Repeating the measurements a second time can increase the accuracy if you are having to slide the tripod on the ground and the movement may not be parallel to the subject.

If the subject is hanging then I take the center of subject to floor as my vertical distance used in calculating C. You don't have to know the center of the subject, just pick a point that is going to be the center of your image and make the measurements from that point, the same as the center focus point of the camera.

I use my iPhone now to level things and a tape measure for the distances.
Hope this is more or less what you are looking for.
 
Those look good. Sometimes I line up vertical lines parallel to one side or the other of the frame. Figured that out shooting sports with lines and posts and signs. Depends on what it is, guess it helps sometimes making sure it's straight.

Or if I'm having trouble, I look away momentarily then reframe. Guess your eyes can get goofy doing enough of trying to shoot a lot of subjects that need to be straight.
These are from a Detroit Fire Fighter memorial monument. Very old. I was drawn to these detailed carvings at the base of the monument. It gives us an idea of how the equipment started out.
 
You are not using the word "perspective" correctly. I think you mean something along the lines of correct camera alignment, or plano-parallel camera alignment with the . It can be tricky many times, to get a subject framed up absolutely perfectly, with the camera's film plane in perfect position in relation to the subject! A grid screen can help many people. I used to like Nikons E Type viewfinder screen for that reason.

Correct, didn't know how to say it. I wanted to see how close I could actually line things up square by hand and eye. Usually just focus on an edge but now thinking a little more to try and improve the in camera image. May be fruitless but a fun little project. No grid screen in this Canon AE1. I was guaging it by looking at the four lines and tilting and turning body. It's harder than one would think.
 
You are not using the word "perspective" correctly. I think you mean something along the lines of correct camera alignment, or plano-parallel camera alignment with the . It can be tricky many times, to get a subject framed up absolutely perfectly, with the camera's film plane in perfect position in relation to the subject! A grid screen can help many people. I used to like Nikons E Type viewfinder screen for that reason.

Correct, didn't know how to say it. I wanted to see how close I could actually line things up square by hand and eye. Usually just focus on an edge but now thinking a little more to try and improve the in camera image. May be fruitless but a fun little project. No grid screen in this Canon AE1. I was guaging it by looking at the four lines and tilting and turning body. It's harder than one would think.
Hi. For this kind of work tripod and level help a lot. :allteeth: Even with view camera.
 

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