portrait lighting

[Christie Photo]

Just because I'm spending $40 on a light instead of $1000 doesn't make my photos any less professional.

Yes, yes. I believe we agree on this.

Because a person wants to do something professionally doesn't mean he needs the best tools in the buisness, but he does need appropriate tools. Home Depot's brand of hammers may not be as highly rated as Snap Ons, but they'll still build a house.

And I think we agree on this too.

All I'm saying is if someone is setting up to do this professionally, they should invest in the "appropriate tools." And those tools don't come from the hardware store or involve duct tape. We all know what is possible with entry level gear. But when someone is "setting up shop," it's time to look down the road a bit and acquire tools that will perform well, allow them to perform well.

-Pete

 

[maverickphoto]

I like all the interaction on this topic, but no one has really helped me set up a good system.

 

[sperry]

I like all the interaction on this topic, but no one has really helped me set up a good system.

well i think you have received some good guidelines if not specific instructions.

your budget is a little restrictive if you are 'going pro' with a studio set up. although, i think you can get plenty good results with a couple hotshoe flashes and umbrellas to start with. or, get a smokin deal on a cheap used monolight set. start small and find your limitations, then add to your set up as needed.

also, work hard to learn all the concepts of studio lighting and posing. there is a lot to learn... i know, i'm learning too.

 

[8power]

I like all the interaction on this topic, but no one has really helped me set up a good system.

Find a camera shop run by a friendly pro and make purchasing decisions based upon what new/used items actually are available for purchase at the time. Negotiate.

 

[maverickphoto]

Find a camera shop run by a friendly pro

Thats a tough one, The 2 camera shops here in town are the same owners and i think he hires the rudest people in town. Every time I go in to either one I get asked by at least 3 people if i need any help. Not a bad thing but When i say im just looking they get this "well if your not going to buy then fine" look on there face. Just because im not spending 1000.00 they dont want to talk to you. I went in there today to look at lighting and while I was there I asked to use the rest room. The guy had the nerve to walk me to the rest room and stood outside the door till i came out. Now the RR are not in the back with product laying around but in a hallway. So if someone was dishonest the only thing they could grab would be maybe a pencil. I get the feeling that im bothering them if i go in and look at some lenes. I also was asking about filters and hoods for my lenes. He grab 2 40.00 filters and hoods and put them on the counter and left them there for me to buy. Just because I was asking about them dosent mean i need to buy them. I finaly had enough and just left. It was a weird moment and i was all ready PO about the whole RR thing. Thank god for craigs list and ebay. LOL Sorry had to rant.

 

[Village Idiot]

I like all the interaction on this topic, but no one has really helped me set up a good system.

:er:

Cheapest thing I can think of off the top of my head involves ebay


Set of Gadget Infinity, Cactus V2S trigger and receiver = $30
Additional receiver = $15
2 x Vivitar 283 = $35ea used
2 8’ lightstands = $20ea
2 Umbrella adapters = $15ea
2 westcott 43” white satin shoot through umbrellas = $20ea


The bare necessities comes to about $220. You may want a reflector and a stand. You can get better triggers, but that ends up costing you about $150-$200 more though. The GI wireless triggers can be very unreliable. It all depends on what say they were produced and how you’re intending to use them.

The Vivitar 283’s are a work horse. They’re older but cheap on e-bay.

The rest are just lightstands and umbrellas.

If you know nothing about off camera lighting, I suggest you start here: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

Did you change your requirements? Sub out new Sunpak 383's for used Vivitars. Or whatever. Lights and triggers are pretty much interchangable in that list. Want me to spend more of your money for you?

 

[Village Idiot]

Find a camera shop run by a friendly pro and make purchasing decisions based upon what new/used items actually are available for purchase at the time. Negotiate.

Brick & Mortar have to be some of the worst places to shop for cameras at. One of the bigger local ones wanted to charge me $2100 for the Canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS. I saved $500 from purchasing from B&H.

Canon 430EX's were still going for retail when you could get them for something like $250 online new.

 

[Mike_E]

Hi, if I may, you didn't mention the size space you will be using mostly.

On the occasions I need a larger space for 12 people and up I have a conference room in a nearby motel that I rent. I worked out a good deal with the manager for discounts for herself and her employees. And she likes the advertising as well.

As to lighting, Please take a look at using reflected and diffused light. I really like using a 4X6 foot frame with white satin/nylon (any shiny white cloth will do) with a flash bounced of of it towards my subjects. You can get it close and it's very soft.

If you only have one flash then you can glue some aluminum foil to some foam-core and place it above and behind for a hair-light/kicker. I say aluminum because the silver gives a harder shine and I like more specularity in the hair.

You can also use the same frames and stretch some thin nylon over it and fire the flash through it for much the same effect- it takes a little more room though. Shooting through does have an added benefit of giving the ability of hardening or softening the light depending on how close or far away you place the flash.

Using one of each will give the face a nice soft light and the reflector will give a nice fill for a rounded effect. Be sure to bring which ever you use as a main as far forward as you can to wrap the light further around the face. If you get spillage onto your back drop from your diffusion panel then you can flag it or use it as you like.

Take a look here.. http://www.studiolighting.net/homemade-diffusion-panel-instructions/
Also tinkertubes http://www.software-cinema.com/page/tinkertubes (gives you an idea how to put things together.

There is a wealth of information out there you just have to dig.

Google is you friend! (tip- every time you find a new term, Google it or note it and Google it later.)

Best of luck

mike

 

[maverickphoto]

great info guys thanks

 

[Village Idiot]

Mike - a window shade from Walmart works good, folds up, and might last a bit longer than the foam core and aluminum. All for under $5.

 

[Mike_E]

Mike - a window shade from Walmart works good, folds up, and might last a bit longer than the foam core and aluminum. All for under $5.

It is a lot easier to use but wears out and isn't as reflective. If you are using flash then every bit counts as you get further out from the flash. You can also bend it (and tie it with a string) to concentrate or further diffuse as you like.

 

[CharlesSmithPhoto]

I would suggest getting a pair of 580's, a cheap stand, and a few reflectors. You are going to need the flashes one day anyway.

 

[Brian Austin]

Brick & Mortar have to be some of the worst places to shop for cameras at. One of the bigger local ones wanted to charge me $2100 for the Canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS. I saved $500 from purchasing from B&H.

LOL. B&H is a brick & mortar store...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/find/HelpCenter/NYSuperStore.jsp

But I know what you mean. I do choose to spend a bit more locally (it wasn't $2,100 for my 70-200 but another $150 over B&H) but I get quality service, the opportunity to try out different equipment, and first name friendly help when I walk in the door.