Printing Black and White Photos from Color Film?

stefawesome

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Hello,

I was wondering if it is possible to print black and white photos from color film and if so, does it require special filters? Is it just as easy as using the color negative with black and white photo paper? The darkroom I have access to only has resources to print in black and white but I have some color negatives that I really like.

Thanks
 
Yes, you can use Colour negs and expose it on B&W paper ... but the results may not be that great.

You probably have to use a higher grade of filter and longer exposure.

There used to be B&W paper specifically made for this ... but I am not sure if it is still made.
 
Printing colour negs onto straight B&W paper turns out very low contrast.

Kodak used to make a paper specifically for the purpose called Panalure, but I don't know if you can get it (or an equivalent) anymore.
 
Panalure is no longer being made , and if you can find some, it is doubtful it still is usuable.

My students make black and white prints from color negatives from time to time.

The exposure time will be longer and you will need to boost the contrast as the color mask creates problems. It will take some practice and testing to determine what your personal settings will be , but I have seen lovely images made from this combination.
 
I've found that the best results for printing color-neg to BW paper come from using graded paper, rather than RC. Graded papers are actually orthochromatic, with greener light activating a lower-contrast emulsion, and bluer light activating a higher-contrast emulsion. That's how the MC filters work, but it can give some wonky results due to the variance. You may have to experiment a bit with the paper grade, but you'll probably have better luck erring on the side of higher contrast. Grade 4 is a good place to start.

I'm a bit rusty with my darkroom work; it's been a while since I've had a chance to get into it. Grade 3 should be "normal" contrast for BW, but the range typically goes to 5 for graded papers, IIRC, hence the recommendation for trying grade 4 first. Developer concentration can also have some effect, as can techniques such as flashing the paper, both typically in the lower-contrast direction, as BW paper typically develops to completion.

Hope that helps some. :)
 
I've found that the best results for printing color-neg to BW paper come from using graded paper, rather than RC. Graded papers are actually orthochromatic, with greener light activating a lower-contrast emulsion, and bluer light activating a higher-contrast emulsion. That's how the MC filters work, but it can give some wonky results due to the variance.

I think that you have misremembered that. You mean to suggest using multicontrast (MC) paper instead of graded paper. RC (resin coated) has nothing to do with it. It is MC paper that has the wider spectral sensitivity because of the two emulsions, not graded paper.

Best,
Helen
 
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*facepalms*

I did mean Multicontrast paper, not Resin Coated. That was a brain-error.

However, I mean to suggest using graded paper for the printing, rather than multi-contrast, as multi-contrast will can have strange exposure effects. Graded paper will print much more consistently throughout, regardless of the colors in the negative.

Although, I forgot to mention, lack of red sensitivity will result in certain areas being very light, regardless of the contrast grade used. This applies with either graded or MC papers, as both lack red sensitivity.
 
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Use your favorite brand of variable contrast paper. Set the color enlarger for 100 Magenta and 75 Cyan. This will give you a nice B&W print with good contrast. My exposure times run about 30 seconds for 5x4 inch prints. If you have graded paper a 4 or 5 may work without filters but very long exposure time and goofy unbalanced grayscale reproduction and grain. If you run your darkroom on a shoestring, Go to an Office Supply Store and look for colored transparent plastic folders. Get a magenta/purple and a blue one and cut out a section to fit the filter drawer of your enlarger. The pure purple will probably work well enough without the adding blue. Experiment !!!! It's all fun and a learning experience.
 

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