Product Lighting and photography question

Owners1

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Hello, I am setting up my own studio for product photography of an item I will be selling.

I have hundreds of rugs to take pictures of and they are all similar in size and style. I am wondering if the lighting setup I have is sufficient or if there are any changes I should make?

I have attached a few photos of how everything came out. Also, I have ordered 3 reflectors for the darker spots that are on the edges of rug.

Camera used is a Canon 5D with a 24mm lens.

Thanks!
 

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You could tweak it a bit and make better photos, I think. First off...the 24mm lens might have some light fall-off at the edges of the field. But, equally likely is the lights: they are too close to give even lighting. Light falls off very rapidly at close distances, due to something called the Inverse Square Law. Suffice it to say, the EDGES of the shooting table are at least 1 EV below the center part. As close as the softboxes are, and the way they are aimed, the center of the shooting tablee is getting the most light, but the edges of the table have noticeable light fall-off.

If the lights could be moved FARTHER back, the degree/rate/noticeablity of the fall-off of the light, would be reduced. At close distances, light falls off very,very quickly. And these lights are, relatively speaking "close". At 10 feet, and at 12 feet, a light unit's degree/rate/noticeability of fall-off in intensity is much lower than at 6,7,or 8 feet. I mean, by a LOT. By 20 feet, there would be almost no rate of fall-off that could be seen from one end of a cowhide rug to the other end.


Yes, the intensity of the light would be less at 10 or 12 feet than at 6, ot 7,or 8, but it would be more-even. It's weird the way that light works!

You could use Lightroom's nifty vignette removal tool, and create a reverse-vignette, and save it as a Lightroom Preset, and thus eliminate the need for reflectors at the edges of the shooting table. A 24mm at that distance also does distort the true size/shape of the products being photographed, but maybe you MUST shoot there? If so, I would figure out a way to make the light come from farther away, even if that means tacking white cards on the ceiling, and bouncing the soft boxes up from low, off of the white ceiling, and then to rain back down.

Last thing too....you might try making a 3, or 4-foot high "fence" around the shooting table, covered with aluminum foil, glued on...that might give a bit more lustre to the hair, a bit more sheen. Poster board, or plyboard, with the foil glued on, or spray adhesive attached.
 
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Wow thank you for the detailed reply! Very insightful.

I am taking two shots of these rugs. One is a closeup and one directly overhead. I gather you are saying I should use the 24mm for the closeup? I have 2 of these cameras and am looking for a lens to use overhead right now. Would you know what an ideal lens would be? The rugs max out at 7x8 feet in size and I have them on a 2 foot platform and I can hang the camera from almost any height.

Again, thanks for your help!
 
Field of view calculations can be done easily by Field of View Calculator - Rectilinear and Fisheye lenses - Bob Atkins Photography so you can determine lenses needed for various camera-to-subject distances. This could tell you what focal length will cover what area, especially for a directly overhead camera shot on a boom arm or whatnot.

Well...24mm lens on 5D from "close range" causes very significant what is called "apparent perspective distortion", sometimes referred to as "foreshortening". So...especially at an angle to a flat rug, where the actual distance from the close edge of the rug (the tail let's call it) and the farther edge, (the shoulders/neck area) of the rug...the close end will look, and will measure very BIG; the far end will look, and actually will measure on-screen, as very small. In other words, it will look like a cowskin rug on the back, and a feeder calf on the far end...that might not be the best look for customers. THe 24mm at an angle to the flat table/rug will not create a really "accurate" rendering of a cowskin rug's actual dimensions/shape/look.

A 24mm lens can make a woman seated in a chair look like she's 6'2" tall with legs up to harrrrrr....even though she's 5'2" tall in real life. if her legs are extended even 18 inches close than her torso, with the 24mm, there will be a LOT of "foreshortening" (which really could better be called elongating of closer objects).

A 24mm lens is really not the best lens for showing things in a true, accurate manner, from close distances. It makes the corners of the frame ''wonky". Moving the camera farther away, and using a longer lens, will give more of a true perspective to things that are as large as a cowskin rug. Given the length of the rugs: with a 24mm at any kind of an angle to the table, the close end will be very larger, the far end will be made smaller, by a significant amount.

Here is a screen capture I made, where from directly overhead with a 5D and 35mm lens length, at 12 feet you'd get this picture area:
50mm FOV at 12 feet.jpg
 
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I looked at some of the pictures I took and it really does look like that. I must have misunderstood the lens I need. I can put this one up for sale and find a 35mm for the overhead picture since I do have the 12 feet.

Are there any specific lenses that you would recommend?
 
Canon's 35mm f/2 EF series lens would probably be fine at f/8. You could most likely use a zoom too, like a 24-105 f/4 L. The exact lens used is not "that" critical. You want the lens to be sharp, yeah, but stopped down to f/7.1 or f/8 for corner-to-corner sharpness, any number of lenses out there will do the job just fine. I would say to make sure though that the lights do not cause lens flaring: make sure the lens's front element is well-protected from stray light, which could negatively impact the photos.

If there's a lens you own, or want for other uses, like a 24-70 or whatever, that could likely be used aqequately well.

If you want to get another two feet or so of distance between the camera and the rugs, or the lights and the rugs, possibly the legs of the shooting table vould be sawed off?
 
I'm in 100% agreement with Derrel on the lighting and lens suggestions. One note further - I would get my camera completely perpendicular to the product - either get a tripod that can achieve this, or build a "goalpost" structure and attach a head to it. Shoot tethered, and boom - blast right through them.

Alternatively - if distance is a issue, put everything on an angle. It doesn't have to be extreme - may be 5-10 degrees. As long as you lens is perpendicular to the shooting surface, you're all set.

While it is a more elaborate setup, it will cut your post time in half - so much less distortion correction.
 
I just finished ordering the 35mm lens which will be here Saturday. Looking forward to the results!

Most likely, I will lay the rugs down flat on the surface and remove the legs so the extra 2 feet of height won't be needed.

Andrewkurcan, I have the height so I plan on shooting directly straight up and down to get the best shape possible.

Thanks again for your help guys
 

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