Question for the extra high focal lengths photographers

[MaxKo]

Hello,

I've bought an old soviet lens MTO-11a f=1000mm, d=1:10 (The MTO-11 1000 mm f/ 10 Lens. Specs. MTF Charts. User Reviews.)
For astronomy photo and some fun with photo and video. In fact, it shrinks perspective in a very interesting way.

But I faced with disappointed artifact during shooting.


There is no good weather for this lens in fact but I managed to make couple tests. Results can be found here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yi3h5zeojtu89sb/AABwBAe8A…IWpEB7_jhNOa?dl=0

Well I thought either lens in not so sharp as I expected or my skills are not so good but what I what noticed during indor test showed that lens sharp is very good and probably it is shareper than my Canon 650D can register.

But as evidence I can show only mobile video:
Dropbox - 20170205_211655.mp4


Well during focusing with liveview and 10x magnification image looks very-very sharp on the camera lcd screen.
but when I make the photo the result is not so good. (650D, mirror lock, 2 sec delay) -

Tried different shutter speeds - but require too much light.. or high ISO which is not appropriate for the sharpness

There are few samples
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lvujsfmabt57sm5/20170205-2…IMG_9447.jpg?dl=0
Focus is on Franclin's frons


https://www.dropbox.com/s/q65jgxjh9jlico1/20170205-2…IMG_9440.jpg?dl=0
focus is on center of bottle (it is oval)

So, what is the reason? Shutter? is it possible to get a clear image?

 

[tirediron]

I'm not able to open your images (Perhaps you could embed them directly in your post?), but I'm guessing it's simply a matter of camera movement. Your shutter speed will need to be fairly high. Even on a tripod with MUP and all the rest, I'd still want to get 1/500 at a MINIMUM, and probably more like 1/1000+. This is going to be a challenge with an f10 lens.

 

[480sparky]

Simple: Turbulence and particulate matter in the atmosphere. Remember, you're shooting through a lot of air. That air is not only moving, but it's laden with dust and water vapor.

 

[Derrel]

An f/10, 1000mm lens is a BRIGHT-weather optic...I have a 500mm f/8, and even it shoots best in good, clear, sunny weather, and over not-too-far-distances.

 

[TCampbell]

Taking astro-images gets complicated...

I couldn't help but notice that you had some wintery photos in there. Are you keeping your gear in the nice warm indoors and then going outside to shoot the sky? That's a no-no... if the lens is "warm" and you take it into the "cold" you'll get thermal currents and you'll get nothing but blurry shots until the lens cools down. We take telescopes out at least an hour before we plan to use them (my largest 14" scope can take around 4 hours until things really settle down in the optics.) A small lens like that will probably be fine within an hour. If there's a safe place where you can leave it outside (in a cold garage or in a locked car (but cold - not warmed up) then that would be better.

You're also going to be dealing with the effects of "seeing" conditions. "Seeing" refers to the fact that the atmosphere can behave a bit like looking at a coin at the bottom of a swimming pool when someone is making waves on the surface. Your eyes deceive you and you "think" the objects in the sky aren't wobbling... but they are (this creates distorted and blurry images in the camera.) Ideally you don't want to do this sort of imaging when weather is in transition... you don't want to be within 200 miles of a cold front or a warm front or the jet stream.